And your problem is?
Oh and my other Woody is in my kit ready for the next meetokenest:
Thats so funny ,
fair enough good for you !Woodlore Owners...
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Thats so funny ,
fair enough good for you !Here you go Bisto,a bit of troll food for youi make that roughly £3200 quid or thereabouts,and when you add the value of the knives it should roughly come to about , in real terms, about £3350 .
I agree those knives can only be worth what the price of a bit of steel ,some wood and a bit of glue and brass.Must be a good £15 worth each there.
Still hungry?
This is an interesting post .... I have a Woodlore which I have used for a good few years and I have the Ray Mears SWC Bushcrafter and a Mick Wardell Damascus Tool Steel Woodlore clone and an Alan Wood Damasteel Damascus Woodlore .... all are there to be used and have been to a point .... the Alan Wood Damasteel and SWC fairly lightly but they are new.... the Wardell knife much more use .... they are all a similar size and design ... but were bought out of interest to find the ideal user for me ....
Now strangely I have read a lot of the threads here which hit on the 3mm is better than 4mm thing and that the Woodlore is too thick etc ... and I did'nt necessarily believe this.
Acouple of days ago I had need of triming a bit of damage to my GFB SFA Haft ... I went for these knives to use them in a draw knife task to trim down the chip/crack in the wood before re-sanding... it is surface only caused by impact damage ... and found the thicker blades with steeper scandi grinds could not bite as well and as delicately as another scandi I tried and ended up using to do the job. This was by a forum maker HillBill and is a 3mm knife with a higher scandi grind. All knives were razor sharp. The last knife could shave the wood much thinner and with more control and the others could'nt ...they were making the tear go deeper when taking against the cut and when taken behind the cut to shave the tear down were not biting well .... I think because of the steepness of the grind .... the more acute HB knife did however sort this out no problem .... I even posted about it here I was so shocked but also pleasantly suprised.
Now I am in the position of wondering what to do with these expensive Woodlore's and clones ... I have as it were become a convert based on my own experience to the 3mm higher grind knife .... Do I re-grind the Woodlore to a higher scandi edge ? I am tempted by this as I have used the knife a lot and it has a fair bit of sentimental attachment ... Do I sell the others or keep them as a collector ? Do I alter them all or try more tests ?
Of the other knives my most comfortable is the Alan Wood Damasteel ... nice thick white linen micarta grips and red liners ... but to alter the grind would really mess up the damasteel pattern .... however I fancied the idea of keeping one "stainless" Woodlore for different purposes .... If I did as I am thinking the knife would drop a lot in value ....
Anyway ... my instinct is not to keep them just as collectables ... if a better design works for me then I feel I ought to sell them ... which I will probably do after giving them all more thorough comparisons .... just to settle my mind that one event does not cause me to place too much emphasis upon it ....
Now strangely I have read a lot of the threads here which hit on the 3mm is better than 4mm thing and that the Woodlore is too thick etc ... and I did'nt necessarily believe this.
Acouple of days ago I had need of triming a bit of damage to my GFB SFA Haft ... I went for these knives to use them in a draw knife task to trim down the chip/crack in the wood before re-sanding... it is surface only caused by impact damage ... and found the thicker blades with steeper scandi grinds could not bite as well and as delicately as another scandi I tried and ended up using to do the job. This was by a forum maker HillBill and is a 3mm knife with a higher scandi grind. All knives were razor sharp. The last knife could shave the wood much thinner and with more control and the others could'nt ...they were making the tear go deeper when taking against the cut and when taken behind the cut to shave the tear down were not biting well .... I think because of the steepness of the grind .... the more acute HB knife did however sort this out no problem .... I even posted about it here I was so shocked but also pleasantly suprised.
Now I am in the position of wondering what to do with these expensive Woodlore's and clones ... I have as it were become a convert based on my own experience to the 3mm higher grind knife .... Do I re-grind the Woodlore to a higher scandi edge ? I am tempted by this as I have used the knife a lot and it has a fair bit of sentimental attachment ... Do I sell the others or keep them as a collector ? Do I alter them all or try more tests ?
Of the other knives my most comfortable is the Alan Wood Damasteel ... nice thick white linen micarta grips and red liners ... but to alter the grind would really mess up the damasteel pattern .... however I fancied the idea of keeping one "stainless" Woodlore for different purposes .... If I did as I am thinking the knife would drop a lot in value ....
Anyway ... my instinct is not to keep them just as collectables ... if a better design works for me then I feel I ought to sell them ... which I will probably do after giving them all more thorough comparisons .... just to settle my mind that one event does not cause me to place too much emphasis upon it ....
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fair play to you,good comeback.
just sorry i didnt suggest cutting you fingers off instead
.dont take it too seriously chaps, theyre ONLY KNIVES after all
PeterHW. Got to admit, the knives that Stu Mitchell makes for me have had very high grinds as of late, and I've been using a full flat version that he made alot too and I love it. 4mm is thick, but I do like the thicker blade despite trying 2mm 3mm etc.
Interesting that there is no option for I dont want one:BlueTeamE
I did want one but then I realised many of the reasons given for owning a woodie or clone are totally unfounded.
I did want one but then I realised many of the reasons given for owning a woodie or clone are totally unfounded.
If you obeserve mister Mears, he uses many knives of different styles shapes and sizes but he does not promote them.
I can only remember him using three knives recently. The woodlore, a black folder and a puuku he made. May be wrong, dont own a TV.
Sam
Yeah, that option isn't on there because I'm only interested in what people are doing with them, not about arguing the merits or finding out the percentage of people who don't have or don't want them.
Yeah, he does use many knives fit for the job in hand, and he certainly does promote the Woodlore over others. Quite blatantly in his books and on his website
ok,so forgetting my little giggle earlier,and hopefully not sounding too trollistic......
i really am genuinely interested in the pros and cons of 4mm over 3mm.
ive made a few 4mm jobs,and they do feel excellent in the hand.but when i gave them a good subjective testing i soon ditched the 4mm for 3mm.
maybe a should start a thread or a poll ,even just a list of things a 4mm is better for than a 3mm.
or is that thread jacking
i really am genuinely interested in the pros and cons of 4mm over 3mm.
ive made a few 4mm jobs,and they do feel excellent in the hand.but when i gave them a good subjective testing i soon ditched the 4mm for 3mm.
maybe a should start a thread or a poll ,even just a list of things a 4mm is better for than a 3mm.
or is that thread jacking
That's pretty good observation without having a telly
He uses quite a few including Moras and other handmade knives he has acquired and made over the years. We'll skip the Wilky Survival
ok,so forgetting my little giggle earlier,and hopefully not sounding too trollistic......
i really am genuinely interested in the pros and cons of 4mm over 3mm.
ive made a few 4mm jobs,and they do feel excellent in the hand.but when i gave them a good subjective testing i soon ditched the 4mm for 3mm.
maybe a should start a thread or a poll ,even just a list of things a 4mm is better for than a 3mm.
or is that thread jacking
Start a new thread. I just prefer 4mm, it works for me and I like that size to hold when choking up on the blade and when push cutting using the spine. It just feels better. My favourite grind for 4mm is a full flat, so it's only 4mm near the handle. I can live with either but choose 4mm. Down to the user I guess.
Just to clear up, i was not knocking anyone who wants to own one. They work and if thats what you like then cool.
But my reply to the question is that i am just bored of them, and i believe get a reputation based more on the celebrity than the merits of the design.
But my reply to the question is that i am just bored of them, and i believe get a reputation based more on the celebrity than the merits of the design.
Got the Micarta Wilkinson variety. Use it quite a lot, it really suits my hand, so no hot spots or sore bits & it keeps its edge mgnificently. There may be better knives out there, but I don't own one.
Dave
Dave
I made my own copy as close as i could to see what the fuss was about cost less that £5 in material and a few hours labour by hand
so i dont really count in this poll etc and as its not a real one dunno if my opinion counts for the research
but i didnt like it for my use ive biggish hands so it didnt fit and i didnt like the 4mm blade with the low grind hight and stubby spear point i even distal tapered the front half of the blade but still couldnt get on with it. I have to say tho I do like i better in 3mm wit ha differnt shape handle and have also tryed a 4mm with a full flat and Mini scandi (flandi) which i find better as well but my pref is for more pointy.
I also think the profile works well at smaller scales as a neck knife
Like Jonathan i like thick spine feels good and comfy to work with and elegant to look at with a distal taper I just use 6mm for more effect but not so thin on the edge
you deffinatly could knock the corners off an existing woody to thin the edge but not something i would do to a real Woody cheaper to make another if you want to at least get a pro to do it properly
ATB
Duncan
so i dont really count in this poll etc and as its not a real one dunno if my opinion counts for the research
but i didnt like it for my use ive biggish hands so it didnt fit and i didnt like the 4mm blade with the low grind hight and stubby spear point i even distal tapered the front half of the blade but still couldnt get on with it. I have to say tho I do like i better in 3mm wit ha differnt shape handle and have also tryed a 4mm with a full flat and Mini scandi (flandi) which i find better as well but my pref is for more pointy.
I also think the profile works well at smaller scales as a neck knife
Like Jonathan i like thick spine feels good and comfy to work with and elegant to look at with a distal taper I just use 6mm for more effect but not so thin on the edge
you deffinatly could knock the corners off an existing woody to thin the edge but not something i would do to a real Woody
cheaper to make another if you want to at least get a pro to do it properly ATB
Duncan
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