Love mine in the colder months, I'll be sporting it soon, always something to look forward to this time of year. Can't beat the smell of an old waxed jaisket!
Wax cotton canvas coats
- Thread starter redneck
- Start date
It's not the quite the same thing. It's ventilation not vapour transfer as in the modern goretex's etc.. It's colder air from the hem rising up as the warmer and damper air escapes at the neck. The body heat and movement drives it. Like opening the bathroom window to let the steamy air out after a bath or shower. Unlike the fabrics that do the close fitting vapour transfer the wax doesn't get overwhelmed in muggy weather, so long as the person inside is warmer than the air around. It doesn't need to escape through the fabric. That roomy ventilation is very comfortable.
I agree about a well cut garment, but this is an over jacket. It's not girding anyway, and it allows layering options appropriate to season.
Up to yourself whether you make it a shell or a jacket. My woolen liner means my jacket is not only draught proof but comfortably warm and it never feels wet inside because of the wool.
I don't usually wear much under mine unless it's perishing cold (as in the photo, when I'm layered up in a set of merino thermals and a merino top with a silk and wool scarf.
Like single layer ventile, single layer wax I find chilly to wear. Each to their own.
I handmake buttonholes on everything from silk to tartan; I agree they're all the better for a little discreet reinforcing. It's hard to do that on the wax unless you plate on another layer of the cotton and stitch it down or make a proper bound buttonhole. For handstitched/tailored buttonhole stitched, I find a gimp thread around the slit is a very trim way of keeping it taut.
The cotton is a very simple tabby weave, it unravels and it tears along the grain if not carefully dealt with.
I have some ripstop cotton waxed fabric .....came as a remnant from a factory that made uniforms and clothing for specialist units. It's superb, but I've never seen it again anywhere and there was no manufacturers mark on the cloth or the bolt. If you can find that, I'm sure there'd be interest
Eyelets at the bottom of the pockets rustand wee bits of stuff get stuck in them. They also (brass ones too) rub away at the inside of the pocket and hole the lining.
Sorry to sound so negative; it's genuinely not intentional, just that I've been asked so often to repair wax jackets that have become pretty knackered but are still someone's "the Jacket" that I've seen most of the problems with the stuff.
cheers,
M
Geez, let's just try it out and see, ey? And regarding cut, let me just deal with it. I mean, even with layers, I don't need a 12" armscye, now do I? What I would like to try, is if it's feasible to use wax cotton as a shell cloth. As it in fact has some vapour permeability, why not try it?
I intended to handstitch the eyelets actually. And if you reinforce the the points of metal eyelets and use proper brass ones, not just brass plated ones, I can't see how it could be a problem?
As for buttonholes, well, if you baste a cotton or linen reinforcement between the wax cotton, cut the hole and the slit, and cast neatly around it before sewing the buttonhole purl stitch I can't imagine how it would be that hard? Or just use a fusible. I mean, I deal with mohair every now and then and it frays like crazy. I always use gimp, gütermann agreman or coats epic 30 to be more precise. The recce machine also uses gimp, but as it's a cut after model I seldom use it for my own projects.
I will genuinely find it interesting to see what you make and how you get on with it 
Cut is such a personal comfort thing, (and good tailoring )but close fitting unlined wax isn't the former, iimmc.
I used the eyelets made for corsets last time the new owner insisted that they be used in his jacket Those are brass, and smooth both sides since they are double faced ones. In the long term eyelets are honestly more trouble than making a decent flap for the pocket and angling it so that water is shed and not channeled into the pocket. They all rub. Ventile rubs through at cuffs, and channels with draw cords, so does the waxed cotton.
I hand stitch eyelets too, but in heavy fabrics and where a cord is to be laced through I usually reinforce them over a brass or copper rings (we wrap stiff wire tight around a pen shaft and snip the rings off, then solder the ends and smooth them down; some folks just use little washers) Again, the hole that I use is created with a stiletto so there are no cut threads in the fabric.
Buttonhole stitch really does need the gimp; the tabby weave pulls out otherwise....much like tabby woven mohair, though that is inclined to felt if given a chance
I would also recommend that you keep a bottle with some meths and a cloth beside your sewing machine too; the wax gums up everything, especially if it's cold
On the other hand; all the fuss to make is worth the jacket
cheers,
M
Cut is such a personal comfort thing, (and good tailoring
)but close fitting unlined wax isn't the former, iimmc.I used the eyelets made for corsets last time the new owner insisted that they be used in his jacket
Those are brass, and smooth both sides since they are double faced ones. In the long term eyelets are honestly more trouble than making a decent flap for the pocket and angling it so that water is shed and not channeled into the pocket. They all rub. Ventile rubs through at cuffs, and channels with draw cords, so does the waxed cotton.I hand stitch eyelets too, but in heavy fabrics and where a cord is to be laced through I usually reinforce them over a brass or copper rings (we wrap stiff wire tight around a pen shaft and snip the rings off, then solder the ends and smooth them down; some folks just use little washers) Again, the hole that I use is created with a stiletto so there are no cut threads in the fabric.
Buttonhole stitch really does need the gimp; the tabby weave pulls out otherwise....much like tabby woven mohair, though that is inclined to felt if given a chance
I would also recommend that you keep a bottle with some meths and a cloth beside your sewing machine too; the wax gums up everything, especially if it's cold
On the other hand; all the fuss to make is worth the jacket
cheers,
M
My wife won a contest - free code for some clothing. So she got me a Farah jacket with it. It's not outdoor gear, but a smartish jacket/coat (she's fed up with me looking scruffy).
Anyway, this is a button-up jacket with cord collar made from some heavy canvas oiled cotton. No rustle, no waxy smell or finish and has a very durable feel. Wore it this weekend in town and despite not being tested by weather it had me thinking I wished I had something similar for outdoor use. It just feels reassuringly robust and utterly windproof without the boil in the bag feeling. I'll report in when I get a chance to wear it in the rain, see if I can find out what it is actually made from.
Anyway, this is a button-up jacket with cord collar made from some heavy canvas oiled cotton. No rustle, no waxy smell or finish and has a very durable feel. Wore it this weekend in town and despite not being tested by weather it had me thinking I wished I had something similar for outdoor use. It just feels reassuringly robust and utterly windproof without the boil in the bag feeling. I'll report in when I get a chance to wear it in the rain, see if I can find out what it is actually made from.
4 days ago, I unearthed my trusty barbour Beaufort jacket from around 1990. Havent used it since 2005 (found a bus ticket in one pocket). It has shrunk a little bit .
Thankfully my old Northumbria with its wool lining is cut more generous with its boxy shoulders and longer sleeves.
On a whim, yesterday I bought a 2nd hand Beaufort in a bigger size off ebay.
.Thankfully my old Northumbria with its wool lining is cut more generous with its boxy shoulders and longer sleeves.
On a whim, yesterday I bought a 2nd hand Beaufort in a bigger size off ebay.
I wear my old barbour coat for shooting now and then, the one with a belt and single big shirt type pocket?
Not a well used garment I must admit. Mostly I wore it on shoot days as a handy tool for pushing through brambles and hawthorn
A waistcoat though is a firm favorite. It layers perfectly over almost everything and is almost a uniform for (farm) work from autumn through spring
reinforcing the stereotype quite nicely there bout the only time i'v worn wax is for farming, shooting, or keepering lol
I wont mention me chaps or toddy will be wiping tea off her keyboard again
Not a well used garment I must admit. Mostly I wore it on shoot days as a handy tool for pushing through brambles and hawthorn
A waistcoat though is a firm favorite. It layers perfectly over almost everything and is almost a uniform for (farm) work from autumn through spring
reinforcing the stereotype quite nicely there
bout the only time i'v worn wax is for farming, shooting, or keepering lolI wont mention me chaps or toddy will be wiping tea off her keyboard again
I have a Filson oil-finish shelter cloth jacket that I wear all winter long (and it shows it, too). They call it "oil-finish" but they sell wax in cans for re-proofing. Same thing, really. It's close to an English waxed cotton jacket. But they also have a real canvas oil-finish fabric that is used for coats, jackets, pants and vests. Current stuff is quite oily, too. Older garments were more waxy. All of it is intended for outdoor use and good for that purpose but none of the coats or jackets are good for backpacking, I think. They're too heavy and usually too bulky.
For actual backpacking, even with only a lightly loaded pack, I prefer a single layer cotton or nylon (I'm not dogmatic about it) jacket or smock. It doesn't need to be waterproof either, just windproof. Pockets are handy but not a requirement. In fact, the jacket usually isn't required unless it's real windy or pretty cold. When it rains, I prefer to use a poncho. I use a variety of pants, all mostly satisfactory, none perfect. Ordinary denim blue jeans are perfectly fine, provided they don't get wet. Actual requirements, even in the winter, vary a great deal depending on the location and the weather.
Concerning jackets, the biggest shortcoming of a lot of jackets I've used is that the hood, if it has one, is usually too small. I assume I don't have an exceptionally large head.
For actual backpacking, even with only a lightly loaded pack, I prefer a single layer cotton or nylon (I'm not dogmatic about it) jacket or smock. It doesn't need to be waterproof either, just windproof. Pockets are handy but not a requirement. In fact, the jacket usually isn't required unless it's real windy or pretty cold. When it rains, I prefer to use a poncho. I use a variety of pants, all mostly satisfactory, none perfect. Ordinary denim blue jeans are perfectly fine, provided they don't get wet. Actual requirements, even in the winter, vary a great deal depending on the location and the weather.
Concerning jackets, the biggest shortcoming of a lot of jackets I've used is that the hood, if it has one, is usually too small. I assume I don't have an exceptionally large head.
I've got a Filson Cover Cloth jacket, I believe they source their fabrics from the same supplier as Barbour; British Millerain.
I've also just purchased a matching hood and 24oz wool liner
I've heard of (but not seen) people sending their Barbours in to get some moleskin or cord on the cuffs to extend the sleeve length slightly
Any thoughts?
I've also just purchased a matching hood and 24oz wool liner
I've heard of (but not seen) people sending their Barbours in to get some moleskin or cord on the cuffs to extend the sleeve length slightly
Any thoughts?
I have just cut out my new Waxed Cotton smock - sewing starts tomorrow all things being equal!
I am using British Millerain Chera 8 375gms fabric and have decided to go "unlined" for flexibility (I run hot and am worried that a flannel lined version would be too warm for all but a couple of days per year and I guess I can put up with any wax transfer onto anything worn underneath the smock...) and to have big buttons not press studs (for ease of field repairs) and a plastic zip to match the buttons - just like the cotton one in my photo.
The cord grips will be the plastic hand grenades as sold at the Moot ( I could not resist the kitch-ness of them) with plastic "bells" to cover the knots in the ends of the "el cheapo" paracord drawcords.
For practice with the Waxed Cotton I have made up a 3m x 1.4m ground sheet, lined for the main part with a Hungarian Army blanket ... just an idea I have been playing with...
The waxed cotton gives a base to the whole blanket with an "overlap" at one end. Not only does this give me an insulated groundsheet, (with leather peg out loops at the corners and halfway down the long sides) - think of those cheap waterproof based "picnic" blankets... on steroids - but also I can slip between the Waxed Cotton and blanket if I make a natural material insulation bed, with the possibility of flipping the waxed Cotton overlap over my head for weather protection. I have also added a "cloak" fastening so I can fold the whole thing up into a warm cloak for wear on cold evenings... not elegant I admit - but it should be warm!
So - insulated groundsheet, waterproof blanket, basic bedroll and Watchcoat/cloak all in one - and not that much bulkier than a plain blanket!
And it only cost £45 (not including my time) to make ... sometimes my enthusiasm for making things overwhelms my sense of proportion and financial acumen....
I am using British Millerain Chera 8 375gms fabric and have decided to go "unlined" for flexibility (I run hot and am worried that a flannel lined version would be too warm for all but a couple of days per year and I guess I can put up with any wax transfer onto anything worn underneath the smock...) and to have big buttons not press studs (for ease of field repairs) and a plastic zip to match the buttons - just like the cotton one in my photo.
The cord grips will be the plastic hand grenades as sold at the Moot ( I could not resist the kitch-ness of them) with plastic "bells" to cover the knots in the ends of the "el cheapo" paracord drawcords.
For practice with the Waxed Cotton I have made up a 3m x 1.4m ground sheet, lined for the main part with a Hungarian Army blanket ... just an idea I have been playing with...
The waxed cotton gives a base to the whole blanket with an "overlap" at one end. Not only does this give me an insulated groundsheet, (with leather peg out loops at the corners and halfway down the long sides) - think of those cheap waterproof based "picnic" blankets... on steroids - but also I can slip between the Waxed Cotton and blanket if I make a natural material insulation bed, with the possibility of flipping the waxed Cotton overlap over my head for weather protection. I have also added a "cloak" fastening so I can fold the whole thing up into a warm cloak for wear on cold evenings... not elegant I admit - but it should be warm!
So - insulated groundsheet, waterproof blanket, basic bedroll and Watchcoat/cloak all in one - and not that much bulkier than a plain blanket!
And it only cost £45 (not including my time) to make ... sometimes my enthusiasm for making things overwhelms my sense of proportion and financial acumen....
Wow! and theirs is half the length of mine!
So mine is worth about £300 retail!
Discount for the man who pointed it out to you?
Ach well thats a steal I'll take two
Well folks - should I hold him to that?
Vote now......
You gimme a sensible quote we'll talk turkey John
I am all tied up with personal projects (and work) for a while ... I may think about making stuff like this for sale if I can source good blankets at a good price and a better priced Waxed Cotton
I will let you know when
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