Le Loup
Settler
Well, the 9" Strömeng leuku might be a viable candidate for you.
Is this blade carbon steel?
Le Loup.
Whats the best grind for your ideal bushcraft knife?
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Is this blade carbon steel?
Le Loup.
Hey Hoodoo! Any chance of pm'ing me with Pekkas email address please?
That would be great.
Thanks.
Chris.
That would be great.
Thanks.
Chris.
As this post still seems open. Got to go with convex for so many reasons, including having had spent two days in the woods with Dave Budd learning to sharpen my scalpels, Victorian paring knives and bushy blades.
So for me sabre, convex with slight secondary and sharpen it in the field on wet and dry.
Sandsnakes
So for me sabre, convex with slight secondary and sharpen it in the field on wet and dry.
Sandsnakes
Being a cheapskate and incredibly lazy the grind on my tools follows the profile of whichever power wetstone I'm using.
On the boat I live on, thats a bench grinder type wetstone and in the workshop its an old horizontal 'record player deck' type wetstone. Hollowground and flat ground respectivelly.
Then to be REALLY lazy I finish off with a homemade slow speed power strop dressed with jewelers rouge or even toothpaste if I'm really skint.
On the boat I live on, thats a bench grinder type wetstone and in the workshop its an old horizontal 'record player deck' type wetstone. Hollowground and flat ground respectivelly.
Then to be REALLY lazy I finish off with a homemade slow speed power strop dressed with jewelers rouge or even toothpaste if I'm really skint.
might have found a new one that has a lot of promise
a FLandi grind which is a Full flat but left thick enough to still have a Scandi secondary trying out on my newblade the scandi bit is 25degree at a thickness of 2mm then tapered up to the spine
you could also convex the secondary bit
or as ive seen Convex one side flat grind the other (makes it handed tho )
choices choices
ATB
Duncan
a FLandi grind which is a Full flat but left thick enough to still have a Scandi secondary trying out on my newblade the scandi bit is 25degree at a thickness of 2mm then tapered up to the spine
you could also convex the secondary bit
or as ive seen Convex one side flat grind the other (makes it handed tho )
choices choices
ATB
Duncan
Isn't the Flandi what Dave uses already Duncan? A sort of exagerated secondary!?
My best.
Chris.
My best.
Chris.
possible but i doubt its as high a 3-4mm and as acute as 25deg
i havent seen any of his grinds like that
but as i said in the thread its an idea ive come up with BUT its probably been done before (most things have in the knife world)
I woudl like to forge one tho
ATB
Duncan
its 20yrs since i wacked Hot metal at college
Might do it as a Stick tang to
but the shock might kill Dave 
ATB
Duncan
its 20yrs since i wacked Hot metal at college
Might do it as a Stick tang to
ATB
Duncan
Go on then Duncan, show me what you're made of :swordfigh
You know I like it when you guys make proper knives instead of those kiddies projects As for me making a 'flandi grind' blade, you are both right. When I started to make forged blades I forged cloes to an edge then went straight into the sharpening and ended up with an edge of about 4mm at 20d on either side. These days my forging is better so I get closer to an edge before putting it to the grinder, so at 20d each side my bevels are normally about 2mm (between 1 and three depending on the nature of the blade). So I guess if I put a much lower angle on it then it would come out close to 4mm.
not quite as shiny as yours though
Le Loup
Settler
I have to admit, that although I have been using knives for over 50 years, this stuff is going right over my head. Hence my earlier replies which were obviously not what anyone was looking for. Well here is another one I guess. I sharpen my blades at the same angle all the time, because that is the angle that my hand always holds the blade at on the stone.
I use whatever stone is available, and have been known to use stones out of the creek.
I use whatever stone is available, and have been known to use stones out of the creek.
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Used only a couple of Scandi's for quick tent pegs so not really qualified to form a proper opinion. I just love my flat grind Spyderco Sage to bits so voted flat
I'd go with spyderco ceramic in a flat hide case
I've never known anything better and I've tried all oilstones, diamond sharpeners and sticks
a bit of oil and it will sharpen your knife lovely
it also depends on the hardness of the steel blade
titanium or ceramic edged knives are disappointing an with never get a razor edge
one trick I did learn that improves a knife edge immeasurably is to fill the microscopic blade edge grooves with leather particles from a strop hence why I mentioned the hyde case of the sharpener. it turns an already sharp edge into a mirror finish scalpel edge
I've never known anything better and I've tried all oilstones, diamond sharpeners and sticks
a bit of oil and it will sharpen your knife lovely
it also depends on the hardness of the steel blade
titanium or ceramic edged knives are disappointing an with never get a razor edge
one trick I did learn that improves a knife edge immeasurably is to fill the microscopic blade edge grooves with leather particles from a strop hence why I mentioned the hyde case of the sharpener. it turns an already sharp edge into a mirror finish scalpel edge
I voted scandy... purely because of easy of sharpening.
However, my next knife will be coming with a micro bevel. I'm not sure about the merits of this or how easy it will be to maintain it. I guess I'm about to find out. I'm curious to see if there is any discernible difference in cutting ability or edge retention.
However, my next knife will be coming with a micro bevel. I'm not sure about the merits of this or how easy it will be to maintain it. I guess I'm about to find out. I'm curious to see if there is any discernible difference in cutting ability or edge retention.
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