Pathfinder way of securing a ridge line

[John Elstob]

For a year or so now I have been using Dave Canterbury's Pathfinder school way of setting up and securing a ridge line. For those who aren't familiar you tie a loop at one end of your cordage and you use said loop to tie a marlin spike hitch, at opposite end you tie a truckers hitch. When watching a recent YouTube vid this was updated I thought this was pretty neat as I found that loop that it tied to create the truckers hitch had to get out if the loop twists. Here is the new way to set the same ridge line

 

[Danceswithhelicopters]

I will watch, always love a new technique but it's having a settled one that you can bash out in all weather's and works with your kit.

I'm an Evenk starter at one end then deploy tarp from bag to next tree with a truckers hitch to fettle tightness at only one end.

One minor preference is to put 2 turns through the loop generated for the truckers hitch. That makes it generally self holding prior to finishing off. All quick release, no loops and no pegs.

 

[John Elstob]

One minor preference is to put 2 turns through the loop generated for the truckers hitch. That makes it generally self holding prior to finishing off. All quick release, no loops and no pegs.

Agreed I use two turn's through the loop (rope tackle)too. It helps when creating the half hitch to secure the ridge line.
But this looks intriguing. I m gonna have a go in the garden I reckon lol

 

[Danceswithhelicopters]

Just had a chance to watch the video... I will most definately be trying that oot!

 

[Big Si]

I thought it was a good solution to a common problem I have it saved to my phone to give it a go next time I'm out. I also use a timber hitch at the other end instead of a loop and a spike.

Si

 

[Jared]

Original post by Outdoor Academy Australia

 

[Suffolkrafter]

For a year or so now I have been using Dave Canterbury's Pathfinder school way of setting up and securing a ridge line. For those who aren't familiar you tie a loop at one end of your cordage and you use said loop to tie a marlin spike hitch, at opposite end you tie a truckers hitch. When watching a recent YouTube vid this was updated I thought this was pretty neat as I found that loop that it tied to create the truckers hitch had to get out if the loop twists. Here is the new way to set the same ridge line

Well that's an excellent looking alternative to the truckers hitch. Although, he could have done it a tad slower than warp speed.

Edit: just got to the second video. Much better!

 

[Kav]

Ahem, In an older episode ol Dave went pedantic on the correct pronunciation of MarLINEspike vs
Marlinspike. It was ‘ my way or the highway’ classic countyourberries
VS millions of sailors, and the US Army hero’s ignorance of linguistics
Language fluidity and patois.
FYI Dave, a USCG Chief Bo’sun told us the OLD ENGLISH pronunciation was TAKE’L, as in tickle with a long hard A. NOT tackle as in American Football.
I thought the Mate from downunder
Did a fairdinkum demonstration.

 

[John Elstob]

Here is a more in depth look with slightly different take on the same system RDRL (Rapid Deployment Ridge Line)

 

[R_Fonseca]

I don't actually like Dave's second version that much with the prusik. I do like the Aussie one though and learned and practiced it this weekend. I like it a lot. He also has a short showing ways of strengthening that knot.

I don't like the bowline that much on the first end either. I honestly prefer to just tie two half hitches with a bight. I think it's neater and I don't have to fiddle around with a stick or keep the line taught

 

[Tony]

Good thread, a reminder that I need to refine the way I do things, which can be a bit clumsy sometimes
I'm another Evenk starter!

 

[Suffolkrafter]

Good thread, a reminder that I need to refine the way I do things, which can be a bit clumsy sometimes
I'm another Evenk starter!

Agreed. I always thought the truckers hitch was overkill and overly complicated for a ridgline. But I've changed my opinion on seeing these videos. Although, I've found that rather than the loop itself sustaining damage, it's the bit being hauled through that gets damaged, particuarly with parcord. The outer seems to bunch up and 'disconnect' from the inner.

 

[Jared]

Think the prusik version could be improved, with a ring in the prusik loop. To pass the bight through and avoid cord on cord friction.

Here's an arborists version, though with larger diameters than needed for a ridge line.

 

[John Elstob]

Think the prusik version could be improved, with a ring in the prusik loop. To pass the bight through and avoid cord on cord friction.

Here's an arborists version, though with larger diameters than needed for a ridge line.

Sounds like a good idea. I have thought about using other cordage material as opposed to paracord for my ridgeline in the past! I was in my local go outdoors and they had some accessory rope in the climbing section that was the same thickness of paracord maybe something i have dabble with

 

[Jared]

Yeah, I think ideally the prusik cord is supposed to be thinner than the cord it bites on.

 

[Tony]

Yeah, I think the choice of the cord makes a huge difference to the longevity of your setup, there can be a lot of cord wear, Paul Dryer is an expert on cordage, he's done a few workshops at the Moot that helped me realise that paracord really wasn't the best choice for setups like this.

I also thought about using some small but strong and smooth carabiners for leveraging on so there wouldn't be cord on cord friction...

 

[Mesquite]

I also thought about using some small but strong and smooth carabiners for leveraging on so there wouldn't be cord on cord friction...

That's what I do.

Not only does it cut down on the friction significantly but it's a lot easier to clip the tail into the carabiner than feeding it through the loop.

 

[nigelp]

Yeah, I think the choice of the cord makes a huge difference to the longevity of your setup, there can be a lot of cord wear, Paul Dryer is an expert on cordage, he's done a few workshops at the Moot that helped me realise that paracord really wasn't the best choice for setups like this.

I also thought about using some small but strong and smooth carabiners for leveraging on so there wouldn't be cord on cord friction...

I favour thinner but stronger rated ‘cord’ that I buy from the Yacht Chandlers rather than paracord. This usually has little or no sag when used as a long line. I also use a ‘mechanical’ device rather than a knot - like the one below but an older version. The cord itself is only a 2/3mm thick and is light weight, strong, compact and dries quickly.

https://www.niteize.co.uk/products/figure-9-carabiner-rope-tightener-small

 

[Jared]

Was thinking a large split key ring would work. Though guess the advantage of a mini carabiner is can use them as a toggle if putting prusik loops through eyelets or clipping into webbing loops.

 

[John Elstob]

I suppose what you could do is still attached that extra prussic loop, and use a niteize cam jam. I think the split key ring might pull a part under tension.


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