Pathfinder way of securing a ridge line

[Tiley]

I do like the addition of a prussik loop to one end of my ridge line; clipping in a carabiner (something I always carry...) and then using the hitch system seems pretty bombproof and versatile to me. At the other end, I am a dyed-in-the-wool Evenk hitch fan, so I'm not about to change that! It looks as though I'll be playing with cordage 'n' crabs tomorrow!

 

[Kav]

Yeah, I think the choice of the cord makes a huge difference to the longevity of your setup, there can be a lot of cord wear, Paul Dryer is an expert on cordage, he's done a few workshops at the Moot that helped me realise that paracord really wasn't the best choice for setups like this.

I also thought about using some small but strong and smooth carabiners for leveraging on so there wouldn't be cord on cord friction...

Paracord has become some sacred
Part of the bushcraft sacrament. Why? It’s utterly wretched as fishing line and worse for snares.
It actually wicks rainwater in time and degrades in sunlight and is not biodegradable. I’ve had more than one melted glob burn and find it knot and hitch dyslexic. It hasn’t been used in parachutes for years and one apocryphal story aside, would you use it for emergency rappelling? On the same note, how much rated strength do you really need in those YouTube episodes
‘ Caught in a blizzard emergency bivouac’ with my tarp, blanket and why are you watching a fool who can’t check the weather forecast?
Manila! It’s truly multifunctional as a Tinder, will absorb rainwater and not readily wick into your shelter, biodegradable and in larger diameters superb for demonstrating rope work. Lastly, with the popularity of oilcloth and other ‘natural’ or ‘vintage’ kit, it looks better!

 

[John Elstob]

Different strokes for different folks I guess Kav! I personally carry paracord as it's multi functional for me. I do paracord crafts so for me so I will take it with me for that reason. I'm sorry but I disagree with the knot part because it depends on the knot you are tying, knots when tied in paracord can be secured by wetting the paracord as paracord shrinks when wet thus tightening the knot. True this maybe done with manila also. Paracord can be seized from fraying by melting the ends. However I do agree that it is not without its limitations. As is Manila for eg. Manila is heavier when wet and is slower to dry.. Paracord does wick water. Hence it can be used to set up drip lines to keep water away from your camp or gear. Manila frays without it being seized, normally with ends needing to whipped with some smaller diameter cord.
Ultimately they both have their benefits and draw backs

 

[Danceswithhelicopters]

I've often wondered if the difference in Paracord opinions is due to the variability in quality and type. The British style BCB stuff is horrible. 7 strand decent Milspec is excellent.

 

[John Elstob]

I've often wondered if the difference in Paracord opinions is due to the variability in quality and type. The British style BCB stuff is horrible. 7 strand decent Milspec is excellent.

Yeah agreed not sure what they use as the material make up of the BCB stuff but from what I have seen it looks like Polyester. A lot cheaper cord is Polyester and is awful as you said. It doesn’t melt and looks to be woven together so no way of separating the inner and outer. Instead the milspec stuff that is nylon and made up of an inner strands and an outer sheath


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[John Elstob]

here is further development in RDRL

 

[R_Fonseca]

here is further development in RDRL

Curious what you all think of this. I like what he's done, but at the same time won't be doing it myself... Mostly just because it's not as tidy to pack (I know that's a silly reason, but it would annoy me, so I'd rather tie the knots).

 

[Stew]

Curious what you all think of this. I like what he's done, but at the same time won't be doing it myself... Mostly just because it's not as tidy to pack (I know that's a silly reason, but it would annoy me, so I'd rather tie the knots).

I think it’s one of those where there’s already plenty of simpler solutions that work fine. I think it’s the need to come up with something new to drive the brand (and have an acronym!). It’s good to think of new ideas to try but I don’t see it being any better.

 

[Jared]

If fixing toggles on the line, why wouldn't put toggles on the other prusik loops?

 

[John Elstob]

If fixing toggles on the line, why wouldn't put toggles on the other prusik loops?

I guess I know what I will be doing on Thursday when going for a two nighter camp out. I’m going to definitely give both a go see if there is any difference is adding the toggle to the prusik loops.
I’m guessing the RDRL 2.0 is open to interpretation just like as Dave said in the vid the frst version RDRL people added there own twist on his system which led to this advancement.
I personally like the idea of attaching the toggle to the ridge line however because there has been many a time when I have forgotten to pick up a stick for a toggle when setting up my basha or lost some pre-made toggle when doing the same thing


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[Jared]

Getting flashbacks of the old coats with wooden toggle buttons. Had two holes so can be put into the prusik loop.

 

[Stew]

Getting flashbacks of the old coats with wooden toggle buttons. Had two holes so can be put into the prusik loop.

Yep, or tent inners to fly sheets.

 

[John Elstob]

Yep, or tent inners to fly sheets.

Or whoobie to poncho


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[Danceswithhelicopters]

If you're going for fixed prussiks, toggles, looped ends you don't have a multi use piece of line anymore.

If you are adding so much gubbins then buy 2 NiteIze Camjams (which I rate highly and use) or NiteIze Figure 9s...which look great but I always forget how they work!

 

[Stew]

After just watching some DMM manufacturing videos then seeing their smaller line of krabs (XSRE range) I was coming onto say that if you’re using sticks, why not just put krabs in.

Lots of options I guess!

 

[Jared]

Yeah, have some XSRE Locks, they are nice bits of kit. Use one to secure a ferrorod, scraper, whistle to a keyring loop in the top pocket of pack.

If buying hardware, these seem close to ideal for on the prusik loops (though might be a bit short for webbing loops) for less than euro each.

Aluminium Toggle - Adventurexpert

Black anodized aluminium. Hole size 3mm. Weight: 3g

www.adventurexpert.com

 

[John Elstob]

I know they won't break the bank, but adds to the expense I guess too. I was looking at the system (once all component part are obtained and assembled) as little project for my friends cubs group as bivvi building is soon coming up in their curriculum. Knots from previous versions maybe a little difficult for them retain So at least there is only three knots now, (bowline and prusik and fisherman for joining the two end of the line to form the prusik loops) also my friend is a little knot dyslexic too. It's only a group of 12

 

[Stew]

I know they won't break the bank, but adds to the expense I guess too. I was looking at the system (once all component part are obtained and assembled) as little project for my friends cubs group as bivvi building is soon coming up in their curriculum. Knots from previous versions maybe a little difficult for them retain So at least there is only three knots now, (bowline and prusik and fisherman for joining the two end of the line to form the prusik loops) also my friend is a little knot dyslexic too. It's only a group of 12

Yep, agreed on the added cost. I like the multifunction part of a krab vs a stick.

 

[Stew]

Getting flashbacks of the old coats with wooden toggle buttons. Had two holes so can be put into the prusik loop.

Just recalled that for my kite lines I just larks foot the loops over the knots on the kite. No need for a toggle - just position the knot so it’s bottom central.

 

[Tiley]

If you're going for fixed prussiks, toggles, looped ends you don't have a multi use piece of line anymore.

But, by the same token, if you're using the cordage as ridgeline for your tarp - even without toggles and prussiks - you're still only giving it a single use at that moment. The toggles and prussiks can come off very easily to restore the versatility of the line.

I have to admit that I quite like the look of the latest, almost knot-free incarnation of the Dave Canterbury ridgeline hoopla but I can see that, if you prefix the bits of wood and friction knots, it would be trickier/more bulky to pack and, yes, it would compromise the ultimate flexibility of the unadulterated cord! Perhaps this could be a classic example of Uncle Ray's maxim: "Carry less by knowing more"...

So many options! So little time to play with them all!