2012 Arctic Courses. <<>> Discussion thread. <<>>

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Thats very kind Lennart, thanks ;)

I have found since posting that a 1l drinks bottle with the thread cut off fits the aperture perfectly, as do the prebiotic aldi yoghurt drinks. I managed to pump the mat up with one dustbin liner full of air, then the bag popped. A rubble sack was a bit better but a pain to use. I'm now sewing up a tube of parachute nylon and glueing it to the bottle section.
 
Exped being a Swiss company, of course they have thought of it before. There is something called a Schnozzle, which is sort of like a tube connecting to your sleeping mat and to an Exped compression bag with a valve. I already have such a compression bag for my sleeping bag, so I will locate and bring a Schnozzle. Should anyone wish to use this 'pump' they are very welcome ;).

That was the old way of inflating the mats before building in the pumps. Airbed adapters fit the mat, but the trouble is finding something to attach to the adapter!
 
you are right about Goretex and sub-zero conditions J the f.
They are on the kit list incase the weather changes and we have rain!! ( god forbid!! )
Not keen on taking one atall to be honest, kind of got round it last time by wearing Ventile
but the sudden re-freezing could catch me out there I guess! ?
Getting the kit right is a problem AND part of the fun for me!
Still have not decided on my final outfit(s!)
Chris.
 
...i didnt know that goretex doesnt work in minus 20 and is not reccomended?

These fabrics are "vapour permeable" which means that water vapour will pass right through them, but "waterproof" which means that liquid water won't pass through them. On a good day, anyways, if the fabric is in good condition and the seams are well sealed.

But at very low temperatures there's no water vapour to speak of. If the temperature is low enough it condenses and turns into tiny ice crystals on the inside of the garment/bag/bivi/whatever, and ice crystals won't pass through the fabric.

If you can wear Goretex or similar close to your body and you have enough insulation on the outside of it to keep it warm, then it will work as intended and water vapour will move away from your body. But then in very cold weather, pretty much the same thing happens with most fabrics anyway.
 
Some test fitting ;)
I am going by the drop-pod system, which means I will be taking a separate carrying frame with pods I can drop or combine. On the outside I now have my Exped mat with cover mat, bivvy bag, inflatable pillow, Tarp/tipi with pegs (for the days prior and following the course). On the inside in the bottom I have my sleeping bag (in a 40L compressions sack) and above that most of my clothes and cooking kit (in another 40L compressions sack). Some smaller items are in smaller pockets on the inside (which are not visible).

The packframe is surprisingly comfortable. Still a bit of tweaking necessary but this will do nicely. As for what goes where, I need to do some more trials to see what is most practical. The lower bag on the outside (carrying the tipi) could perhaps ride a little higher. Still need to put in my axe, snowshoes on the side and some other bits but this is most of it.
I am going to pack my clothes in a separate bag next try because I can compress it much more than I have done now, since there were other items like my cup and plate in there.

If and when we set up some kind of basecamp in Norway, I will drop several pods and use the frame and one or two bags as a daypack. I have got one small pod/sack to go with me in the cabin which should also hold some food. The rest I am procuring locally.

Happy with this try but as with all trips, it is packing the last things that potentially gives you the most trouble.


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Thanks DUCky, just treated myself to a Synmat 7M, so I may need it too!

It is proving to be difficult to find the right schnozzle :)

My downmat has a 32 mm inflate valve but it seems most schnozzles fit a 22 mm valve. The adaptors exist but are nowhere to be found. Of course you can find plenty adaptors the other way around :( .
Need to go into McGuyver mode for this :D
 
Ducky, I like the set up, are the outside bags, standards water proof compression sacks, what litre are they ?
I also have a exped mat, how muck of a problem do you think they are to inflate in cold temps?
Shane
 
Ducky, I like the set up, are the outside bags, standards water proof compression sacks, what litre are they ?
I also have a exped mat, how muck of a problem do you think they are to inflate in cold temps?
Shane

The orange bags are Exped 40L waterproof bags with compression valve. The brown/green outerbags are ultralight pockets made of a Silnylon variant. The fabric is waterproof but I haven't seamsealed them (yet).

Inflating the Exped mats is just going to be slow in the cold. The pump will still work. I haven't given up on finding an external pump but if it doesn't work I will just have to be patient.
 
It is proving to be difficult to find the right schnozzle :)

By George, I think I've done it :rolleyes:

If mister postman does his job, I should have a schnozzle and connector in a couple of days. Should give me time enough to try it out and see if it works.

What are you guys bringing for water containers/bottles? On the kitlist it only mentions a billy and a small thermos (optional).
I am planning on bringing a 3.2 liter pot for snow melting and two 1 liter bottles for clean water. We need to hydrate! ;)
 
I don't have a pot that big! I'll just have mine 1.5l pot on the go all the time. As to water bottles, I'm thinking small thermos, 1 x platypus .5l in a pocket for drink on the move and a BA 1l bottle in the rucksack. If I have space (hah!) I might put in another bottle too.
 
I'm taking trangia 27 pots, 1l nalgene, 1l thermos and platy bottle as a spare if I decide to p in the nalgene.

The big pot is tempting for cooking stews though and I may chuck one in.
 
snow brush may come in helpful

i read the NORGE manual cover to cover,freeze drying seems a good idea?




Freeze-drying of clothing​
At temperatures below minus 10 degrees it is possible to freeze-dry items ofclothing. This is accomplished by removing the garments and allowing moistureon/in them to freeze to ice and frost, e.g. hanging a jacket on poles. The garmentshould be shaken and brushed with a snow brush in order to remove ice and frost. Itwill not be completely dry but this method will result in the removal of much of themoisture in the garment.The outer layer of a winter camouflage uniform, cotton uniform, membrane fielduniform, membrane cap and wind mittens are the easiest items to freeze-dry. Of allthese, the membrane uniform is best suited to freeze-drying because moisture willnot be absorbed by the fabric but will remain either on the outside or the inside of themembrane. Thus, frost is easier to brush off.It is also possible to freeze-dry some other items of clothing, particularly clothingmade from synthetic fibre. Moisture will remain on the outside of synthetic fibresand will not be absorbed by the fibres, as would be the case with woollen and cottongarments. An example of this is the lining in a membrane cap. If this becomes dampas a result of sweat the cap may be turned inside out and the moisture will freeze andcan then be brushed off. The lining will then be virtually dry.​
Figure 15 - Freeze-drying​
UD 6-81-2 E Instruction in Winter Service - Personal Clothing​
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