Have you guys seen those erasers that you can use to clean ceramic rods and stones. Very cool! No more scouring cleaner!
Waterstone vs diamond/ceramic
- Thread starter Lurch
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I use a diamond stone, never had any problems with it (that'l change now i've said that), I hone with a ceramic honer. But as the guys have said, it's all down to personal preference. 
ack:
ack:
Ok, got the ruler out. Lesseee, which side is metric...? :?:
Right. There it is in m&m's.
I got about 11.5 cm long, 3.7 cm wide, and around 2 cm tall (not including the pad). You can make them any size you want, eh? :uu:
Right. There it is in m&m's.
I got about 11.5 cm long, 3.7 cm wide, and around 2 cm tall (not including the pad). You can make them any size you want, eh? :uu:
Cheers Hoodoo, I am sure they can be made any size but I would wonder if a too smaller size would encumber rather than enhance performance. Mine ar roughly the same size as yours btw - so I guess I wil have to go smaller just to see.
Anyway cheers.
Anyway cheers.
Right , I don't use my knife very often and its as blunt as owt ( shock horror )
When I was a lad my Dad had loads of whetstones and oilstones for his chisels , flat they were and about the size of a bar of chocolate
I've scoured the B&Q's and what have you but can't find one anywhere
Surely there's a high street diy store that sells them ?
When I was a lad my Dad had loads of whetstones and oilstones for his chisels , flat they were and about the size of a bar of chocolate
I've scoured the B&Q's and what have you but can't find one anywhere
Surely there's a high street diy store that sells them ?
The problem is that the high street stores tend to only sell carborundum stones.
Best bet would be to mail order from Tilgear in Cufley, Axminster, or someone similar.
Tabwell tools in Bakewell had good stones, but they are hardly a common highstreet store :roll:
Best bet would be to mail order from Tilgear in Cufley, Axminster, or someone similar.
Tabwell tools in Bakewell had good stones, but they are hardly a common highstreet store :roll:
Take a look at www.axminster.co.uk ... fantastic stuff there at a good price.
For a DC04, this place ahas good prices: http://www.tregor.co.uk/dc4.html
For a DC04, this place ahas good prices: http://www.tregor.co.uk/dc4.html
All good stuff.
Even though I have just shaved the back of my hand following post Lansky stropping, I have ordered a DC04 and waterstone starter kit to have a go at the different methods.
Even though I have just shaved the back of my hand following post Lansky stropping, I have ordered a DC04 and waterstone starter kit to have a go at the different methods.
Gary said:
Gary knows that I am a fan of waterstones, but they have a place, have one or two at home, but for field maintenance use a ceramic.
thought you were using a japanese water stone on the Dartmoor trip to sort out your axe?leon-1 said:Gary knows that I am a fan of waterstones, but they have a place, have one or two at home, but for field maintenance use a ceramic.
jakunen said:thought you were using a japanese water stone on the Dartmoor trip to sort out your axe?
Yep indeed, but have recently had good experience of the one of the spyderco ceramic stones, very impressive and hard as hell. They don't appear to take off quite as much as a diamond stone but can put one hell of an edge on (I will always carry a slipstone or a 2X2" combi waterstone anyway).
One question about ceramic hones...
A friend uses a Japanese ceramic rod system and he dropped one of the rods. Ended up with 20 rods.
All rather short.
Are they all as fragile as that? And expensive?
A friend uses a Japanese ceramic rod system and he dropped one of the rods. Ended up with 20 rods.
All rather short.
Are they all as fragile as that? And expensive?
I can't comment on how good they are, but I did see something at the Blade show a couple years back called CeraHone, an aluminium oxide on an aluminium substrate, designed specifically to overcome the breakage problem of pure ceramics.
A quick google search shows that they are still around, but I didn't delve enough to get a feel for how good they are.
Hey, Lithril, Tormek are nice if you have deep pockets, possibly the best thing for doing gouges, but I see that kind of tool as an addition to bench stones, not a substitute. Apart from anything, I hate the idea of having to rely on a jig to sharpen stuff, its like never taking the training wheels off a bike. Free hand sharpening is a wonderful skill to learn (says the eternal C/D grade student :roll: )
A quick google search shows that they are still around, but I didn't delve enough to get a feel for how good they are.
Hey, Lithril, Tormek are nice if you have deep pockets, possibly the best thing for doing gouges, but I see that kind of tool as an addition to bench stones, not a substitute. Apart from anything, I hate the idea of having to rely on a jig to sharpen stuff, its like never taking the training wheels off a bike. Free hand sharpening is a wonderful skill to learn
(says the eternal C/D grade student :roll: )
I confess that I don't like DMT or anyone elses diamond hones very much. They start off rather coarse and nasty, then wear down quite quickly and rumble along like half used sandpaper for ages. The one exception is for sharpening carbide cutters - the harder the material, the better diamond seems to cut it.
The great thing about waterstones is that they are soft and wear down steadily exposing new sharp edges that give a really clean cut. The real woodworkers out there will know that garnet paper is way better than sandpaper or the new synthetic papers for exactly the same reason.
But horses for courses. Waterstones are useless in the field, so get a ceramic sharpener or take a hoodoo hone with some spare wet and dry paper. Wet and dry on plate glass is excellent for flattening the back of chisel and plane blades, so it's well upto maintaining a knife edge.
BTW - the tormek's a good tool, popular in schools and the like which have to sharpen dozens of blades regularly with minimum effort but I'd not put any of my good japanese chisels on one):
Cheers
The great thing about waterstones is that they are soft and wear down steadily exposing new sharp edges that give a really clean cut. The real woodworkers out there will know that garnet paper is way better than sandpaper or the new synthetic papers for exactly the same reason.
But horses for courses. Waterstones are useless in the field, so get a ceramic sharpener or take a hoodoo hone with some spare wet and dry paper. Wet and dry on plate glass is excellent for flattening the back of chisel and plane blades, so it's well upto maintaining a knife edge.
BTW - the tormek's a good tool, popular in schools and the like which have to sharpen dozens of blades regularly with minimum effort but I'd not put any of my good japanese chisels on one
): Cheers
The spyderco ceramic stones are basically made by Coors in Colorado I believe ..... guess what else they make? ..... no not the beer
They were involved in the development of the reentry tiles for the Space Shuttle.Simon said:The spyderco ceramic stones are basically made by Coors in Colorado I believe ..... guess what else they make? ..... no not the beer
more or less ... way I heard it they are basically the same thing ... same basic material and same process ....... point being ... their tough
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