How to Sharpen an Axe - Picture Heavy

  • Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (21st July - 2nd August) available until March 31st, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
Can you sharpen an axe just with waterstones if it doesn't have any lumps missing and is reasonably sharp to begin with?
 
You can sharpen an axe with stones of any type fishy yes, but sharpening a convex bevel on a flat stone does need more technique than I've shown here. Anything is possible, but it wouldn't be my chosen method personally

Red
 
Hiya Red - Just ordered a small Wetterlings from ebay and want to get a sharpening kit together and was wondering what the best size is for the diamond hones is?

Axminster do a 25mm x 75mm and a 50mm x 150mm set - which would you recommend?

Is there a better place to buy them than Axminster?

Many thanks

Keith
 
Keith,

My advice is "don't spend a fortune". Mine were £3 off the market :o They work fine though.

Go for the 150mm size - they will speed the job up no end

Red
 
I just wanted to add my thanks for this superb tutorial. I know there are a lot of stickies in this forum, but this thread should really be amongst them.
 
After many months I have just spent an hour putting an "edge" on a Wilkinson Sword hand axe as practoce before I have a go at doing the same to my Wetterlings.

It is nice and shiny but there is no sharpness to it at all! I used the diamond files, wet and dry (down to 600 as that is all I have in) and the polishing compound but didn't use a rough file as there was no damage to it.

I guess I was a bit too timid and didn't work each stage enough!

Hey-ho will have to have another go some time soon!
 
wow, that sounds as though it makes sense and i remember my father using lots of different motions so can almost envisage how it looks but id like to be able to say, is it ready for the next stage now? how would i know that? id really love to find somoene near me in norfolk so i could go sit and be shown

to say my axe is blunt is a gross understatement. its old, the head was loose but i have hammered in a wedge which seems to be secure and now i need to try to get some kind of edge on it. i am doing a level 3 forest leaders course and am new to this site but already can see what a mine of information it is.

my axe is a different shape from these, looking at the cheek, the head is symetrical with the same curved shaping as the one you show but curved on both sides so it resembles a woman in a ball gown... bizarre... is this an ok axe for bushcraft use, at this stage all im doing is pointing poles? it has a convex blade with some damage to the toe.

i have a sharpening stone, (maybe the axe stone you refer to above?)it is rectangular about 15cm x 4cm, approx 2/3 light grey and 1/3 darker grey. the edges feel rough with the darker material feeling the rougher but the surfaces of it feel smooth and the lighter side looks to be contaminated with black something. i do remember buying this and trying to sharpen something a few years ago and failing miserably, i think it was a scythe i was trying to sharpen. any advice as regards what this is and whether it is suitable for my purpose would be gratefully received

i guess i need to start by buying myself a coarse crosscut and a fine metal file?

i havent fully found my way around this forum yet, are there ever informal campouts, where i might come along and be advised as im working?
 
There are indeed many meet ups. I rarely go, but if you ever run up to Lincolnshire, we can soon teach you.....
 
Great Tutorial. I use a car body file, which is pretty long, and over the years, Ive taken the 'black' off the cheeks. Which now occasionally rust.
Is there any way to re-blacken the cheeks of the axe, or is it just a product of the forging process?
 
Never tried it myself, but see your local gunsmith that caters for shotgun types. They may sell cold bluing solution (Birchwood Casey is one brand). You could also try the vinegar patination technique that some use on carbon steel knives.

It's the same basic technique - build up an oxide layer that prevents further oxidation.

Cheers
 
.......The vinegar patination technique..........
It's the same basic technique - build up an oxide layer that prevents further oxidation.

Cheers

I was'nt aware that it was. TY. [I'll 'potato' it]
 
Last edited:
After many months I have just spent an hour putting an "edge" on a Wilkinson Sword hand axe as practoce before I have a go at doing the same to my Wetterlings.

It is nice and shiny but there is no sharpness to it at all! I used the diamond files, wet and dry (down to 600 as that is all I have in) and the polishing compound but didn't use a rough file as there was no damage to it.

I guess I was a bit too timid and didn't work each stage enough!

Hey-ho will have to have another go some time soon!

Just an update to say I followed Red's tutorial on my Wetterling and whilst I am sure it could be sharper, it is certainly sharp enough for me!

I now need to repeat the exercise on my old Wiklinson Sword so my son can use it this weekend when we go to Brockwell Woods!
 
I just got linked to this tutorial and wanted to add my thanks to Red, what a superb tutorial and follow up advise. I will be using all of the info herein, excellent! :-)
atb
Dave
 
For a carving axe (for bowl/kuksa/spoon making), would you still do a convex grind, or would a straight/Scandi(navian) grind be more appropriate?
 
That will depend entirely on the nature of the grind on the axe - a side axe is wholly different than a dual beveled axe
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE