Prototyping a Luhkka style cloak

[benjy]

Hello,

I've finally got round to some projects I've been meaning to do for ages and thought I'd post some pictures.

First off, I'd like to say thanks to Toddy for posting some cloak designs in this thread and also to the contributors in this thread which I used to work out the prototype.

So my prototype was made out of an IRMA ikea throw which costs £1.01 and has dimensions of approx 51" x 67".

Once I've finalised my design, I'll be making one out of my Merino wool blanket I picked up in a charity shop for £3, the IRMA throw is nice little prototype piece.

The basic design was to fold the throw over to make a square of double thickness, with the excess cut off and kept to make the hood and pockets. The dimensions of the throw allowed me to make a 50" square with a generous seam allowance.

This was then tacked and sewed along one side that is adjacent to the fold. I stopped short of sewing all the way to the corner that met the fold side, approximately 5" from the corner. This gap become the head hole once you cut down the fold 5". I left these flaps attached out of uncertainty about how to attach a hood, but now I've done it, I realise they can be removed at this stage.

What you have now is the basic cloak, a 50" square that is joined by the fold on one side and the side you sewed on the other. The bit left unsewed, and the cut on the fold leave a 6" head hole at the corner.

The extra material cut off to make the square is used to make a hood. I copied the dimensions off a hoody I have, approximately 12" width, 16" height, and used a dinner plate to help shape the curve at the back. This was attached to the head hole, starting in the middle at the back to see how to handle and excess. Had a small amount left over, which I crossed over at the front.


Final embellishment was to add a hand warmer pocket on the inside.

Overview:

Hood Detail:

Hand Warmer:

Rolled up inside its hood:

Overall, I'm very happy with the design. Keeps you nice and warm but flaps around enough to keep you cooler if your moving about. I'm pretty broad (46" chest) so the 50" is a little small, but it fitted my mum absolutely fine.

I am considering making my wool attempt a 60" square which should give me some excess material to add some poppers like in the Fjallraven versions described here [video=youtube;r05L2WLdxeY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r05L2WLdxeY[/video]

Once I get round to my wool one I'll update you all.

 

[sandbender]

That looks great!

This earlier thread about the luhkka has some plans and more pics for interested parties.

 

[Toddy]

I totally missed that thread Really neat and practical idea

Nicely done Benjy

Thanks for the links folks

cheers,
M

 

[HHazeldean]

Really nice idea, I have thought about making something like this in the past and this has really inspired me to have a go.

Thanks for sharing.....

 

[Martti]

Based on the literature and patterns I have in my collection I would assess that this is actually a woman's luhkka! However, if I might add, both sexes used identical one in Finland and Karelia. The only place I think this matters is if you actually go to Lapland.

 

[benjy]

Based on the literature and patterns I have in my collection I would assess that this is actually a woman's luhkka! .....

I've not come across many designs, how do the male and female versions differ?

Also, after a bit of testing and asking some unwilling volunteers to try on my design, I've already decided on some tweeks. Firstly (and I should have realised at the time) the hoody I used to get my hood template from has a small hood. Whilst its adequately sized, I would want a a bigger one in the longer term.

Also, when I first put it on, I thought the neck hole was comfortably snug, but that become irritatingly constricting after a while. I plan to add a 6" split at the front and sew in an extra V shape of material. If I couple this with a draw string, I can pull this in when its cold, or leave it lose when I want to.

 

[Toddy]

Why not just fit a gusset like the ones I do in HWMBLT's bushshirts ?
One button closes it over neatly and comfortably, no fuss, no bother, no damned cords dangling or cordlocks rattling around at your face.

 

[benjy]

Thats kinda what I was going to do, but your fastener is much simpler, thanks for the idea.

I shall have a bash when I next find some free time

 

[Toddy]

Himself is of the generation that didn't like fussy bits to his clothing, hates wee dangling cords and having to constantly adjust locks, zips and velcro, so that shirt is as simple and effective as I could make it.
One button closes the neckline and the hood. If the hood is up and the button is closed, the hood fits snuggly enough around his face that it can't blow down, yet won't choke him if it's down and he just wants to stop the draft at his neck.

The Fallraven one seems to use a zip to the same effect

cheers,
Toddy

 

[PaulSanderson]

thats a cracking project...i like it a lot. thanks for sharing...

 

[Martti]

I've not come across many designs, how do the male and female versions differ?

The northern Sami design seems to be one-part with men and three-part with women.

 

[Spikey DaPikey]

Toddy, i want one of those shorts ! It looks great

 

[benjy]

So I have finally got round to making luhkka inspired poncho out of wool blanket my mum picked up for me at a charity shop. I managed to confuse myself previously on dimensions, my fleece efforts were approximately 33" square. This was a little too small and too short for me, so I measured my shoulder width and arm length and did a bit of trigonometry and decided something in the region of 39" square would be a better fit.

So here it is. It all hand stitched using wool and an upholstery needed. I've left the seams on the outside, mostly to show off that its hand made. Took me about 3 hours spread out over a few nights. Below should be some links to images on my tumblr account.

Overview:

Neck and Hood close up:

Rolled up into the hood:

Rubbish shot with it on:

Pretty happy with the result. I am now aiming to dye it a more outdoors friendly colour, most likely a dark green. A few of my scout and guide type friends have expressed interest, so I have some blankets on order to make some more.

 

[STOORSTÅLKA]

Sorry to say, but during the last decades the luhkka has transformed from a perfect shaped garment into a fashion garment where usability comes second. Traditionally used in wintertime as a second layer above the fur coat to protect from snow and wind. When running reindeer with "geres", a one-man sleigh, the luhkka was much shorter than todays wild-grown tipi shaped pieces. In the traditional shape it will end at the elbow, and not at the wrist. The traditional luhkka can be worn without you even noticing that's on - except that you will stay warm. It will not interfere with you driving the reindeer, the car, putting on a rucksack or a shoulder bag, or your lasso. Best of all, you can check out the bushcraft forum with your iPhone without looking like fool. If it's too long it will move away from your body and let the cold in when you use your hands. The longer it gets, the more it gets in your way - what ever you do.

Traditionally the luhkka is for being active, and the design reflects this. For extreme cold weather when sitting still watching the reindeer herd, you use a very long fur coat, and an another fur cout with fur turned to the body as an inside layer. So dual layer of fur coat in extreme cold when you are not active, and the luhkka when you are active.

There are some regional varities but the common elements are many. It's cut from the cloth in an economical way, so you will waste as little as possible. Therefor it can be cut in many pieces, and inspire to decorate in many ways, between the wedges. It can come with our without the hood. When not equipped with a hood, it used to have a very high collar covering the ears, overlapping the hat.

When designing Luhkka by STOORSTÅLKA we have been using old patterns from our own family that have been refined from generation to generation. We changed nothing when it comes to functionality.

So please feel free to checkout out our luhkka at http://luhkka.com and be inspired to your projects. We are proud that you guys here wants to make your own luhkka, and embraces traditional sami design.

 

[STOORSTÅLKA]

I just discovered that the mother company of Fjällräven, Fenix Outdoor AB, have tried to make a trademark registration for the word luhkka. If failed, because it it did not aquire distinctiveness.

This is very low. I did not expect Fjällräven to try to get a trademark from an old Sámi word. This is exploiting an indigenous people and their culture. Shame on Fjällräven. I will sell my backpack. Cheap!

 

[STOORSTÅLKA]

http://trademark.markify.com/trademarks/ctm/luhkka/009765405

 

[Tengu]

And ultimately very pointless.

Im making one too. I have a section of a wool blanket that I had aqquired, too small for a regular poncho.

Will have no hood though. (unless I make one of a contrasting colour)