More carboot tools
- Thread starter tombear
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Excellent. I "tuned up" a drawknife for the rustic furniture shop down the street.
No idea how old it is.
Did it at 25 degrees then worked the surface of a 24" x 12" x 8" western red cedar shake block.
25 is just fine. I think that 20 might be too fine and more easily damaged in service.
No idea how old it is.
Did it at 25 degrees then worked the surface of a 24" x 12" x 8" western red cedar shake block.
25 is just fine. I think that 20 might be too fine and more easily damaged in service.
Cheers! I really must pull my finger out and make a draw knife bench thing. I've been trying to use a normal vice and its just not doing it for me.
ATB
Tom
ATB
Tom
My last trip too the boot offered nothing but a pair of olive green bootie things that would be great paired with some army softies as a wearable sleep system!
Some lovely restorations, draw knife looks mighty fine.
You must have the patience's of a saint.
You must have the patience's of a saint.
Finally got around to finishing the quick and nasty wooden edge guard for the 11 inch draw knife.
Ok it won't win any prizes for loveliness but it will do the job.
All I did was split a foot or so length of 35 mm by 15 mm pine scrap on the band saw into 3, ensuring the middle section was the same width as the blade, drew around the edge of the blade I wanted inserted on the middle section, cut out the waste, again on the bandsaw ensuring the cutting edge of the knife wouldn't actually touch the bottom of the recess when the shoulders were hard against the top of the guard. Then it was just a case of gluing it back together, letting it dry clamped in a vice, yacht varnishing to reduce moisture getting into the wood and generally toughen the surface and tacking on some straps to hold the thing in place . I added a few more tacks to reinforce the bottom edge, not that the glue would fail being some stuff I use for areo modelling. The wood around the glue would fail first!
Raining here so not going to the boot. Herself picked up another old school tool box yesterday, £12, but nicer than the last two, this one has proper dove tailed corners. Just needs a lick of paint and coner reinforcings.
ATB
Tom
Ok it won't win any prizes for loveliness but it will do the job.
All I did was split a foot or so length of 35 mm by 15 mm pine scrap on the band saw into 3, ensuring the middle section was the same width as the blade, drew around the edge of the blade I wanted inserted on the middle section, cut out the waste, again on the bandsaw ensuring the cutting edge of the knife wouldn't actually touch the bottom of the recess when the shoulders were hard against the top of the guard. Then it was just a case of gluing it back together, letting it dry clamped in a vice, yacht varnishing to reduce moisture getting into the wood and generally toughen the surface and tacking on some straps to hold the thing in place . I added a few more tacks to reinforce the bottom edge, not that the glue would fail being some stuff I use for areo modelling. The wood around the glue would fail first!
Raining here so not going to the boot. Herself picked up another old school tool box yesterday, £12, but nicer than the last two, this one has proper dove tailed corners. Just needs a lick of paint and coner reinforcings.
ATB
Tom
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Two pairs of Fiskars Scissors only this week. With one seller he couldn't quite understand me not wanting the change from a pound after he asked for 50 pence!
The last two boots have been disappointing but it's a morning out in the fresh air at least!
The last two boots have been disappointing but it's a morning out in the fresh air at least!
Inspired by a this thread I took myself down the local boot yesterday and got Quite a few gouges and planes.
Some me of it is quite rusty and I've read above that citric acid is good for rust. I have some in powdered form from my wine making days, can I use this?
Some me of it is quite rusty and I've read above that citric acid is good for rust. I have some in powdered form from my wine making days, can I use this?
Excellent! Yep it's the same stuff. Beware it will leave a black residue but its easy to remove with a slightly abrasive polish or a wire brush. One of the best things I ever acquired was a quality bench grinder that I could pretty much leave running all day. Fitted with a inch wide wire brush it makes light work of derusting. I've had cheap bench grinders like Drapers £20 quid specials but they never last. Saying that you see paint splattered cheepo ones for under a fiver on carboots which if they run fair enough, no biggy if you only get a year out of them.
my apologies if I'm doing the duck egg sucking routine but to the bases and sides of planes is the one thing I wouldn't wire wheel/brush. In instead get a old piece of tin float glass ( nearly all window and picture frame glass is this theses days) mount it on something solid and tape something like wet or dry or garnet paper. to the surface and lubricated with oil, wd 40 or turps substitute slide the plane up and down on it. As with most things go though the grades until you are happy with the finish. I tend to be a bit AR and try and remove every mark and scratch but you really don't need to.
One thing if you are doing a longer plane rather than taping sheets of wet and dry together go to a half decent hard aware store and you should be able to get different grades of garnet paper ( I think, it's not sand paper ) off the roll by th yard ( well metre) . I've got some for a big bailey plane that's otherwise ready to reassemble but I need to score a at least two foot length of 6 inch wide float glass.
atb
tom
my apologies if I'm doing the duck egg sucking routine but to the bases and sides of planes is the one thing I wouldn't wire wheel/brush. In instead get a old piece of tin float glass ( nearly all window and picture frame glass is this theses days) mount it on something solid and tape something like wet or dry or garnet paper. to the surface and lubricated with oil, wd 40 or turps substitute slide the plane up and down on it. As with most things go though the grades until you are happy with the finish. I tend to be a bit AR and try and remove every mark and scratch but you really don't need to.
One thing if you are doing a longer plane rather than taping sheets of wet and dry together go to a half decent hard aware store and you should be able to get different grades of garnet paper ( I think, it's not sand paper ) off the roll by th yard ( well metre) . I've got some for a big bailey plane that's otherwise ready to reassemble but I need to score a at least two foot length of 6 inch wide float glass.
atb
tom
Cheers for the feedback guys, very much appreciated.
The he plane is an old wooden one with a wedge and blade so sanding the base shouldn't be too much of a problem (certainly easier than a steel plate!), I've got a carriage for the blade and some v.fine sandpaper in order.
Currently trying to to get edges on the gouges, it's a skill I've yet to master but ive got to the stage where it just about cuts instead of tearing. I'd post pics buying not sure how straight off my phone
Just an edit: how much of the dried C.acid per litre would be a starting point?
The he plane is an old wooden one with a wedge and blade so sanding the base shouldn't be too much of a problem (certainly easier than a steel plate!), I've got a carriage for the blade and some v.fine sandpaper in order.
Currently trying to to get edges on the gouges, it's a skill I've yet to master but ive got to the stage where it just about cuts instead of tearing. I'd post pics buying not sure how straight off my phone
Just an edit: how much of the dried C.acid per litre would be a starting point?
Hi
I went at the weekend and it was the worst my local ones have been in ages
All I managed was an old Webley Stinger BB gun for a tenner that wouldn't work
The fella said it needed a new spring but when I stripped it, the thing was so dry that the O ring piston seal was travelling so slowly due to friction!!!
I cleaned the cylinder and oiled it then removed the O ring and cleaned it and the piston, When I re assembled it it was working great!!
I was quite surprised at how the steel BB's were peening the heavy steel of this old BSA Pellet catcher/Target holder
The only other thing I bought was a Cheeseburger- I swear that the gun would have tasted better :tapedshut
John
I went at the weekend and it was the worst my local ones have been in ages
All I managed was an old Webley Stinger BB gun for a tenner that wouldn't work
The fella said it needed a new spring but when I stripped it, the thing was so dry that the O ring piston seal was travelling so slowly due to friction!!!
I cleaned the cylinder and oiled it then removed the O ring and cleaned it and the piston, When I re assembled it it was working great!!
I was quite surprised at how the steel BB's were peening the heavy steel of this old BSA Pellet catcher/Target holder
The only other thing I bought was a Cheeseburger- I swear that the gun would have tasted better :tapedshut
John
Nice, I must admit that I've been looking for a half decent .177 air rifle on boots for a while but my lack of knowledge has put me off committing.
The wife's become a scout leader and the eldest two are Explorers now and I'd like to get them their own .177 springer so they don't have to use the scouts pass arounds. Perversely since I used to be quite a keen collector I can judge the condition etc of things like a Besa, strip and clean them and swap in (legal) parts like wooden furniture but air rifles I've no real experience at all. Since I'm willing to commit up to a couple of hundred on the project I'm loathe to buy somat with no warranty or come back . Since I have a aversion to far eastern or southern European I'm thinking with a old Brit make, before they started assembling the low end stuff in Spain or a Weihrach. I'd rather spend a lot less of course and I can deal with rough wood myself, I've forgotten how many dents I've steamed out of butts!
The scouts are limited to .177 I believe but am I right in thinking with some decent hunting pellets and a normal restricted/ non FAC springer .177 you can still efficiently bag the odd bunny? when I was a kid they all used .22s for rats and rabbits.
ATB
Tom
The wife's become a scout leader and the eldest two are Explorers now and I'd like to get them their own .177 springer so they don't have to use the scouts pass arounds. Perversely since I used to be quite a keen collector I can judge the condition etc of things like a Besa, strip and clean them and swap in (legal) parts like wooden furniture but air rifles I've no real experience at all. Since I'm willing to commit up to a couple of hundred on the project I'm loathe to buy somat with no warranty or come back . Since I have a aversion to far eastern or southern European I'm thinking with a old Brit make, before they started assembling the low end stuff in Spain or a Weihrach. I'd rather spend a lot less of course and I can deal with rough wood myself, I've forgotten how many dents I've steamed out of butts!
The scouts are limited to .177 I believe but am I right in thinking with some decent hunting pellets and a normal restricted/ non FAC springer .177 you can still efficiently bag the odd bunny? when I was a kid they all used .22s for rats and rabbits.
ATB
Tom
