Any bikers here???

[Asa Samuel]

Is it bad to be using the choke every day? My bike always needs a good warmup before I ride or else for the first mile or so it gets it's power in bursts.

 

[Robbi]

using the choke is fine mate, what i used to do was start the bike and let it warm up on choke whilst i put my gear on, once you get used to it, you'll be able to tell by the sound of the engine when you can back the choke off little by little as the engine warms up.

 

[Biker]

Using the choke is a normal function that car drivers forget, since cars have auto choke, bikes rarely have that function.You could do as Robbi suggested above, or simply be wearing all your gear, fire up the bike and let it tick over for about a minute in cold weather in hotter weather you could set off sooner. but that first mile or so take it easy and let the choke back in in increments. After the first easy going mile or so you could push it in all the way and forget about until the next time. As time goes on this will be an automatic process for you as you become familier with the little things about your bike.

It's when you need the choke on to start the bike from warm, that's when there's a problem with the carburettor and will need looking at by someone with a big hammer.

 

[Squidders]

I rode back from Cardiff in a blizzard once... following the darker white lines on the M4 as the snow was drifting... I stopped for petrol and the bike stalled on me... even after what must have been 60+ miles of riding the bike was so cold it needed the choke to tick over. Also, I had to dip my key in a cup of coffee from the petrol station to melt the ice to I could open my tank up. It was nippy.

 

[Asa Samuel]

Thanks for the reassurance, the choke only has two settings and today I tried leaving it a bit longer and I heard the engine change so moved it to the other setting and then the engine changed again so I turned it off and then set off, things were a lot better but still could've done with maybe a tiny bit longer.

 

[Robbi]

keep experimenting Asa, you'll get used to it pretty quickly. Well done so far matey !

 

[Fin]

Fin, what's the vibration like? Back in the early 80's me mate had a le Mans 850 and that was a v twin. On startup it use to vibrate sideways like a vibraty thing. Lovely noise though, he travelled all over on it, even went to the Guzzi factory on it.

Aah the old Mandello de Lario pilgrimage! Planning on doing that this summer. The 850 Le Mans is a classic Guzzi & much sought after now. All V twins will vibrate more than say an in line four. Modern Guzzis still shake on start up and rock to the right when you blip the throttle. When you're on the move though, something called a CARC kicks in (forget what it stands for) which is an anti torque mechanism in the shaft drive (BMW have something similar for their boxer engines) - this smooths out the ride. I've put 500 miles on her in a single day with no ill effects from vibration - my head felt like it weighed 4 tons but that's another story!

 

[Fin]

Still got the bike but just had a shock to realise this was taken 2005
Dan and Brenda top of Garesdale about SD 78315 88607 1761ft.

It's not fast, but sounds well with a straight through Gold Star pipe.
cheers all Danny

Danny,

Sorry for the delay in posting - that is an absolutely gorgeous thumper! (big single cylinder - to all the non bikers!) and a lovely photo too. A day out on a machine that's also a work of art, with your better half and in glorious surroundings - that's what biking is all about. Cheers for the Grid Reference - I'll check it out!

 

[Asa Samuel]

Planning comes into so many things while riding. If you're riding a bike which has developed a relatively minor fault which won't necessarily terminate the journey it might make the ride anywhere from a little tricky to extremely difficult. Planning can make the difference between almost impossible and a bit awkward. Last year when the hydraulic clutch on my Hayabusa failed in the south of France, I drove it to England without using the clutch at all. Petrol stops and getting on the ferry were a bit awkward. This is more likely to happen to older machines which are less well maintained, but it can happen to any machine at any time so either you need the skills to cope or you need roadside assistance and perhaps a bigger limit on your credit card. For example if you think there might be an issue getting into first while stationary at a junction, you may have several options: get into first while approaching the junction instead; or if it's safe and legal try to plan the approach to the junction so that you won't have to stop (I normally do that anyway, it saves fuel and makes the ride smoother and quicker) -- this may mean approaching the junction a little slower than you otherwise would, so that you can watch the situation unfold and maybe wait for that gap in the traffic; or experiment with pulling away in second if you can find a safe place to do it; or even choose a different route.

How did you manage to ride without a clutch? Sounds like a handy skill to learn if something goes wrong!

 

[Robbi]

try it, it's quite simple.......when riding along in say 2nd gear, accelerate as you would normaly and when you want to change up, just roll off the throttle as you would anyway and apply light pressure to the gear lever, it will change gear it will be a bit jerky to start with but keep practicing.

Robbi

 

[Mojoracinguk]

try it, it's quite simple.......when riding along in say 2nd gear, accelerate as you would normaly and when you want to change up, just roll off the throttle as you would anyway and apply light pressure to the gear lever, it will change gear it will be a bit jerky to start with but keep practicing.

Yup it is simple. I'd just say to apply the 'light' pressure just before and during rollingoff the throttle, it makes it easier as you then don't have to time you movements so well....but light pressure is the key as if you try hooking the lever with all your might you just end up fighting the engine...and it's more likely to win
I had a cable go on my speed triple and rode 30 miles home through rush hour traffic. It was fun trying to change down (not so advisable if you have not got the timing right) into neutral before having to stop. then to start off i kept it in first, hit the starter button and paddled my feet like the clappers to help the poor little starter motor....
obviously if you are on a smaller capacity say 125 then you could just bumpstart it (unless you have one of those new fangled electric start 125's)

But the main reason this gear changing method was picked up from my point of view is that it is the quickest way to change gear (no clutch movment) and was used for trackdays/race events.


Mojo

 

[Asa Samuel]

What about setting off? Would you run alongside it in neutral then shift into gear?

 

[Mojoracinguk]

sorry i missed what bike you have....
what size motor and is it electric start?

 

[Asa Samuel]

It's a lexmoto street 125cc and an electric start.

 

[Mojoracinguk]

I think you misunderstand me, when downshifting from second to either first or neutral it sometimes doesn't change even though the gear-lever is moving.

~Just read back a page or two...the comment you made there could be clutch drag (as ged said) although if you take any bike i've ridden and sit at the lights and try to go up or down through the gears they will stick at some point...what i'm trying to say is that unless the wheels are moving (and therefore the transmission inside the gear box) you cant always gaurentee to get the gears to mesh hence the gear lever moves but will not 'click the gears into place. THat is why the mechanic would mention about rocking the bike back and forth (only a foot or so...you can do it without getting off the bike)
if it still will not go inrto gear/ and or the bike feels like it is trying to pull/move even when you have the clutch lever pulled right in then it would be clutch drag.

As for starting with no clutch (it realy is not advisable...but neather is spending night in the cold under a tarpokenest
I would not use the starter motor on your bike as you will probably cause more damage by stressing it.
and your bike is light enough to push (with it in neutral) get some speed up (you straddle the bike and just paddle your legs.) then sit on as normal...and shift into second gear it will fire up then (as long as you ignition is on)
If you try to go for first it will most likely send you over the front of the bike....well it is not nice any wayand the rear wheel will lock up and skid (especially on gravel).
Hope you dont need to do this....but just like the 'tarp comment above....bushcraft is learning how to do things in case we need them.

Mojo

 

[ged]

What about setting off? Would you run alongside it in neutral then shift into gear?

Sorry, only just seen this - I've been relying on the email notifications from the forum and they're, well, unreliable.

Yes, you can run alongside it if you like, but planning is better. Try to stop on a hill.

 

[Asa Samuel]

Thanks for all the advice guys - and Ged, don't worry about replying, I've been away myself which is why I haven't posted! - I tried changing gear without using the clutch a few times today and it worked fine. How bad is it to do this?

 

[Mojoracinguk]

Well the clutch is there for a reason....it gives the transmission a easier life as it slips a little when you engage it (let the lever out) this in turn allows the engine and gearbox time to sync and takes out sudden shock loads of the crank shaft trying to match the speed of the geabox input shaft.
If you constantly change gear without it then you will be loading the engine and gearbox in ways that were not ment to be...this shock loading will eventually make it self known in a bad way. Think main bearings of the crank input bearings of the gearbox...and shorter term if down changing without the clutch the chain will stretch more than usual and could eventually snap.
I have seen the key way on the fly wheel shearing and when that happens the flywheel rotates on the crank and the ignition loses it's timing so the bike will not run.

It really depends on how heavily enginered your bike is and how you ride....My brother on his 125 blew a couple of geaboxes through missuse of various types. so far my bikes have not suffered...even though i rarley use the clutch on up shifts.

So my opinion is in very short term (like to get you home in emergency) you should not find much wear or tear...but it is not some thing to get into if you need you bike for every day and want it to be reliable
Mojo

 

[Grooveski]

I bent the shaft that the selector arm's on once doing clutchless changes on the dirt bike. Pain to fix(as was the two mile limp home in second). I'd also save the practice for when you(if you ever) need to do it.

Hasn't stopped me doing the same thing since when the need arises. In the dirt you don't have much choice sometimes. You're hanging on and can't get away with letting go to howk the clutch in.
Modern crossers are designed to run clutchless to the extent that you'll fry the clutch if you do use it too much. That takes some getting used to. My dirt bike is an old eighties trailie though and isn't so keen.

 

[Asa Samuel]

I've had a go but I don't think I'll do it again unless I have to, was a weird experience not using my hands to change gear anyway!