Thatching

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Bushcraftsman

Native
Apr 12, 2008
1,368
5
Derbyshire
This didn't seem to get any replies so I though I'd post it here too, I really need help

Ok, I've made a standard lean to shelter in the woods, well, the skeleton of it. And was wondering; what do I use to thatch the roof poles? I cant just pile leaves etc on it as they will just rot and decompose so what do I do?


Thanks

p.s will try and get some pics up soon ;)
 
Thanks for the vid:) but he is lucky enough to be in a pine forest so has easy access to spruce and moss etc...i dont have that luxury :( and no I dont think there's any reeds....my woodland sucks! :aargh4: haha
 
Wattle n daub. Worked for our ancestors. Main thing is to get the smaller inter-twinned bits right. Then enjoy the messy bit.
 
Anything you can bundle up will work if you don't have reeds or straw.
Bracken, hazel and birch twigs, heather, gorse, broom. Make your bundles tidy and tie them on in order from bottom to top. Lay over lapping layers. these can be secured finally using a rush net or ropes and rocks. It can make for a very thick roof, but it's lighter than using rushes or tiles.
Historically basags were used too..........think long turfs folded over the battons and overlapped like tiles, and so were wooden shingles.

Have fun:D

cheers,
TOddy
 
Thanks Toddy, you reminded me....A few fields down from my woods there is a lot of straw piled up in places....if i was to put that over the top of my shelter how long do you think it would last? surely it would decompose pretty quick? which is why I like your idea of bundles....i think I'm going to try a little bit of both ideas and see which i prefer.

Cheers
 
Wattle n daub. Worked for our ancestors.

For walls, not roofs. It's prone to turning back into mud if it gets wet, which is why wattle and daub structures tend to have wide eaves and are usually surrounded by a ditch of some kind.
 
gregorach said:
For walls, not roofs. It's prone to turning back into mud if it gets wet, which is why wattle and daub structures tend to have wide eaves and are usually surrounded by a ditch of some kind.

oh...well there goes that idea..haha thanks
 
There is a very good demonstration on how to do this on the Survival Skills video by Trueways & Lofty but there are others.

At this time of year bracken is very good and if you use tight bunches will last well into next year but expect to need to replace it. It goes brown quite quickly but if you build it properly will still provide good shelter.

The secret is to have a lot of spars or cross pieces of sapplings (the horizontal bits) quit close together - say 4 to 6 inches max - then bundle bracken together pushing the stalks up behind one spar, bend it over to the outside and tuck it behind the spar lower down. As has been said, start at the bottom and work up and build using about two thirds overlap; it uses an unbelievable amount of material to do it properly. On the video mentioned above they don't tuck behind the lower spar but I think it makes a more robust roof.

Cheers,

Broch
 
Yes, and it has to be a sturdy frame too.
Basically a long turf is folded 1:2. The short end is tucked around one baton and lies upon the one in front, the long end covers that and the fold of the previous row too. It can be held in place with little wooden pegs, or ropes/ nets.


Thinking about this, that's how I was shown how to do this, and it's how it's illustrated in traditional roofing techniques, but would it not leave a series of hollows as the rain comes down ?
Would it not be better to go under a baton with the short end upwards and lay that over the next baton up ? That would give a better profile to the runoff for the roof I reckon :dunno:


cheers,
Toddy
 

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