What about Billhooks ?

[oetzi]

Mostly when I'm doing bushcrafty type things these days I'm working and guess what I use? Yep a billhook. It's there and it works. Obviously I use one that I made

I would suggest buying a handmade one (from somebody like me, for example )
)

You got any pics of your handmade ones?
Outside these ones , I can thorougly recommend the one from Fiskars. If one can live with the less than traditional apearance, its a good and priceworthy tool.

 

[oetzi]

http://www.woodmanspal.com/

Great if you want to remove an eye and a finger in one stroke

 

[mariobab]

Hello all
I'm glad people still use billhooks.For over 20 years I`ve used machete and axe,and completely forgotten about billhooks,common tool when I was kid,in 70`s ,but last year I have found two old ones.One had chisel grind,just cleaned it and put it on the wall.Other one was real beauty,nice distal tapering blade, convex edge,just had to change the handle,and make a sheath.Now it`s always in my gear box,and I choose it over hatchet ,when I need chopper.For vines and light work,machete is better choice for me,because it is lighter.

 

[clgladiator]

I would suggest buying a handmade one (from somebody like me, for example )

How much do you charge?, as im looking for a Billhook as my christmas present At the moment i've been looking at a new morris newton.

I'm glad to hear that people think they are better and more versatile than an axe.

 

[fred gordon]

I have a billhook to swap if anyone is interested. Not new but still in good working order.

 

[clgladiator]

what would you be looking to swap it for?

 

[fred gordon]

what would you be looking to swap it for?

Not sure really. Can you make a few suggestions?

 

[Dave Budd]

How much do you charge?, as im looking for a Billhook as my christmas present At the moment i've been looking at a new morris newton.

I'm glad to hear that people think they are better and more versatile than an axe.

pm sent though I wish I had my workshop ready

 

[Hedgehog]

Billhooks can be great tools, if you do buy a new one be prepaired to spend some time reprofiling the grinds, they tend to be pretty rudimentary & barely sharp. You may also need to straiten out the edge somewhat. A convex grind is also preferable for durability & a bit more penetration.

Old hooks will of course vary alot in condition but good ones will need minimal work if any to get the best from them.

Here are some I'm slowly working on...

Top - makers mark indecernable - Newton (Newtown) - rehandled in Yew by me.

Left to right -

Ellwell 3902.7 Spar hook - awaiting rehandling

Harrison Bros. Sheffield small full tang - awaiting rehandling - Any ideas what this pattern is called?

2 Morris of Dunsford - Saffordshire pattern (awaiting reprofiling) & Newton (Newtown)

Both my Morris hooks have a slight distal taper though a Dave has pointed out nothing like the Ellwell & most older hooks making them a little heavy for prelonged use - you'll want to take the varnish off the handle too.

There is a wealth of information about billhooks here on the forum all of which will help inform your choice - or muddy the waters

I'd suggest trying to find somewhere 'real world' selling them - country/craft/game fair, old tool shop etc. That way you can handle a few & see what feels right for you.

 

[mr dazzler]

Nice interesting post and good photo

The little harrison full tang looks very much like a french vigneron knife (serpette) You get some real nice ones on ebay
Your right about old hooks needing very little work to refurb them, chances are there previous owner knew how to maintain it, apart from surface rust usually they are OK unless some dork tried to hammer nails or chop bricks or something. I find the same with chisles, you soon know how well the previous owner knew how to fettle. In fact only today I scored a beauty from Tony Murland for £15, perfect size, weight and balance, suffolk pattern socketed, chisel ground, all sound original pinned handle, literally a minute or two with a diamond file and it was prety much there, but will need some extra work on the last inch or so of the nose its worn a fair bit and will use a sanding wheel or dremmel to shape it, lovely twangy ringy steel (havenet seen the maker yet I will need the loupe for that my vision's gone)
What is distal taper, I do not know? Is it thicker profile at the nose for better momentum?

 

[rednek]

I'd agree, I've layed hedges, cleared and wove willow and hazel for years and it was always a Newton Dunsford that I use. A good tip is to glue that tool mat drawer liner around your handle and that way it wont slip as easy when it's pissing down. Dunsford hooks always have ash varnished handles-why on earth they varnsih them i'll never know! Also if you can make a sheath out of an old pair of boots then you are laughing. I think the billhook is quite underated maybe because MR Mears rarely uses one if ever

i think that you have hit the nail on the head, if RM doesn't use one its not ON

sory if i have offended

 

[Hedgehog]

What is distal taper, I do not know? Is it thicker profile at the nose for better momentum?

Thanks for the info on the Harrison hook, a distal taper is mearly a thinning of the blade from the tang (handle end) to the tip of the blade - generally used to prevent the centre of gravity moving too far forward of the handle while maitaining strenth around the blade/tang transition.

 

[markheolddu]

I grew up using billhooks but havent started using one for bush craft yet, holding out for the Woodlore damascus

 

[Dave Budd]

i think that you have hit the nail on the head, if RM doesn't use one its not ON

sory if i have offended

A point that I have often made (though quetly so as to not offend ). Actually i think that most people who 'do' are more likely to use what they know works, whereas those who 'play' tend to follow celebrity endorsement.

I'm about to launch a personal crusade for the billhook as the ultimate bushcraft tool

 

[Moff8]

looks OK I suppose, really it needs a saw back, hollow handle and a bottle opener

 

[CLEM]

A point that I have often made (though quetly so as to not offend ). Actually i think that most people who 'do' are more likely to use what they know works, whereas those who 'play' tend to follow celebrity endorsement.

I'm about to launch a personal crusade for the billhook as the ultimate bushcraft tool

Ive been bangin on about the exact same thing meself since I joined BCUK,wouldent mind seeing some of your handcrafted hook's Dave!

 

[Dave Budd]

I've got a couple of pics of previous ones, but my fave is out in teh woods at the mo, so I'll get a pic of it this weekend and post sunday/monday

I think I'll try adn make a spoon with one today. just for a giggle

 

[maverix]

I'd agree, I've layed hedges, cleared and wove willow and hazel for years and it was always a Newton Dunsford that I use. A good tip is to glue that tool mat drawer liner around your handle and that way it wont slip as easy when it's pissing down. Dunsford hooks always have ash varnished handles-why on earth they varnsih them i'll never know! Also if you can make a sheath out of an old pair of boots then you are laughing. I think the billhook is quite underated maybe because MR Mears rarely uses one if ever

I was told by my hedgelaying sensei that Morris varnish the handles so they dont get dirtied during production. With ash being such a pale wood and having been to Dunsford and walked around the workshop which is black as..(insert comparison)..It wouldnt surprise me.

I simply sand off the varnish and usually ergonomicise[sic] the handle with some sand paper. Have to say in younger coppiced woodland my Devon pattern is always the first outta the bag. for stems much thicker than 2" then Ill wield my mighty Yorkshire

 

[mr dazzler]

Thanks for the info on the Harrison hook, a distal taper is mearly a thinning of the blade from the tang (handle end) to the tip of the blade - generally used to prevent the centre of gravity moving too far forward of the handle while maitaining strenth around the blade/tang transition.

Thanktou for the explanation hedghog
I took another look at my french hook, it is as you describe and your tip helped me to apreciate the skill and care that went into forging my one. The nose end is about 2-2 1/2 mm thick, the top directly above the junction of tang and blade is about 4 mm. The tang/blade junction itself is about 15 mm thick. It certainly wasnt stamped out of an old rsj like some of the machine mart one's The new suffolk one is also done in a similar way (tapered blade) The socket part is near 5 mm thick.

 

[dtalbot]

Ive been bangin on about the exact same thing meself since I joined BCUK,wouldent mind seeing some of your handcrafted hook's Dave!

Me as well! A Kukri may be the perfect tool in the environment it was designed for but the bill hook as evolved over hundreds of years to do just the sort of things bushcrafters get up to in British woodlands. My Morris Staffordshire billhook is easily the cutting tool I use most.