stainless or carbon?

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R3XXY

Settler
Jul 24, 2009
677
3
Crewe
When you lot say "harder" to sharpen, do you mean trickier and requiring more experience and feel, or just needs more elbow grease ?
 

HillBill

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 1, 2008
8,141
88
W. Yorkshire
Stainless is just a little more wear resistant. The techniques are the same, as the techniques are for sharpening different grinds, not steels. It will just take a little longer with some stainless steels.

Nothing major.
 

JonathanD

Ophiological Genius
Sep 3, 2004
12,809
1,481
Stourton,UK
When you lot say "harder" to sharpen, do you mean trickier and requiring more experience and feel, or just needs more elbow grease ?


To be honest, I can't tell a great deal of difference, but I get into a zen like trance when sharpening so don't pay much attention :)
 

R3XXY

Settler
Jul 24, 2009
677
3
Crewe
i always thought stainless was the way to go until i got my Gerber which is made of
12C27, it's an absolute bitch to sharpen and no matter how hard i try I can't get it as sharp as my mate's carbon Mora or my Fiskars hatchet. Nowhere near as sharp.
 

Survivalmike

Forager
Jan 25, 2010
214
0
Austria
For me the 12C27 is also the "trickiest" one to sharpen. I have sharpen a lot of knives and the all of them get a rezor edge.
On the 12C27 I also get a razor edge but it takes very long.

The keything is, that the 12C27 holds an edge like "tin-can steel" (sorry for the compare but this are my experiences). Thats why I don´t like it.
Hard to sharpen and in comparison with other steels (particulary carbon steel) it´s holding the edge not very well.

greetings
Mike
 

Miyagi

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 6, 2008
2,298
5
South Queensferry
I've carbon steel chef knives which take a great edge and are great for very thin slicing etc.

In the industry they're not allowed these days, because they pit, rust etc., if not looked after. Young Chefs were told to clean their new knives with lemon juice - nasty trick to play, certainly took the new look off them though!

The stainless ones I have are sharpened before each use (habit) and do a good job, but I prefer the older ones.

Global knives are good (SS I think) but if you have allowed your knife skills to get sloppy (by using SS blades that you've not kept sharp) you'll learn the hard way.

My Sashimi etc., knives are extremely sharp and not to be used with even a hint of a hangover.

Carbon steel for me.
 

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,203
1,569
Cumbria
Interesting thread. I have a newbie type of question for you guys. Which mora is best for a novice knife user to own in terms of sharpening and maintaining in good nick? I'll not use it for heavy work more of a light working blade. I'm new to the bushcraft side of things being more of a backpacker type so I'm following advice and getting a mora just confused as to what is what among all the variants I've found.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
I have a stainless steel clipper and a DC4, so on a slightly off topic note how long would I have to spend on each side to get a razor sharp edge?
 

JonathanD

Ophiological Genius
Sep 3, 2004
12,809
1,481
Stourton,UK
Interesting thread. I have a newbie type of question for you guys. Which mora is best for a novice knife user to own in terms of sharpening and maintaining in good nick? I'll not use it for heavy work more of a light working blade. I'm new to the bushcraft side of things being more of a backpacker type so I'm following advice and getting a mora just confused as to what is what among all the variants I've found.

Here you go..... top one, in stainless steel if you don't want the hassle of drying it and looking after it, 01 if you don't mind that.

http://www.lakelandbushcraft.co.uk/acatalog/Mora_Knives.html
 
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Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,203
1,569
Cumbria
I looked at them and those two options. Also saw one at SASS here in Lancaster for £6.99. Prob get one from Lakeland. I suppose I'd probably go for carbon steel option only because it takes an edge better. I still remember my old, old SAK when I first tried to sharpen it and how I just seemed to make it worse. Suppose carbon steel is easier. My carbon steel opinel is nice and easy to sharpen. Anyone know if the opinel steel is comparable to the steel on the clipper? I really rate the blade on my opinel. I found out the first time I picked it up after getting it home when I sliced my finger a little complete with my nail too.

What do you think of the 2010 knife by Mora? I am curious about the shape of the blade on that. Is it more of a second knife than a first one like the clipper? What is the significance of the shape?
 

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,203
1,569
Cumbria
I looked at Lakeland and their clippers. I reckon I'll get the carbon steel, probably easier to sharpen. I know from when I sharpened my very old SAK many years ago how it wasn't easy to get the edge back on them. I have a nice opinel in carbon steel and really like it, a cracking little knife for the pocket. BTW is the opinel carbon steel similar to the clipper one?

What about the interesting blade shape on the 2010? What is the purpose behind that blade? Is it any good BTW. I guess it is more of a second proper knife not the first one like the Clipper.
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
For me the 12C27 is also the "trickiest" one to sharpen. I have sharpen a lot of knives and the all of them get a rezor edge.
On the 12C27 I also get a razor edge but it takes very long.

hmmmn definitely not been my personal experience, and what i have read from most others.

It does not have very much carbon in it and does not have any other complex alloys in except chromium. So unless it was heat treated very hard it should be fine to sharpen.

But hey how long is a piece of string
 
Interesting thread. I have a newbie type of question for you guys. Which mora is best for a novice knife user to own in terms of sharpening and maintaining in good nick? I'll not use it for heavy work more of a light working blade. I'm new to the bushcraft side of things being more of a backpacker type so I'm following advice and getting a mora just confused as to what is what among all the variants I've found.


For what you want it for, a Frosts Mora Clipper would be just the job, cheap easy light and easy to sharpen. Stainless or Carbon, it won't make much difference for simple light use.

I have two and frequently do out deer with them.
 

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,203
1,569
Cumbria
Thanks Poddle. Anyone know why the 2010 has thestrange (to me) grind with the normal blade edge at the bottom at the back then the end seemingly ground to the sharp edge and the point. I can't see the point but then maybe someone like me wasn't meant to (for experienced knife wielders only).
 

JonathanD

Ophiological Genius
Sep 3, 2004
12,809
1,481
Stourton,UK
Thanks Poddle. Anyone know why the 2010 has thestrange (to me) grind with the normal blade edge at the bottom at the back then the end seemingly ground to the sharp edge and the point. I can't see the point but then maybe someone like me wasn't meant to (for experienced knife wielders only).

Acording to Mora, it was to make spreading pate and such like stuff easier.
 

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,203
1,569
Cumbria
Is that Ardennes chunky or the smoother forms of pate? :D

Methinks you're taking the mick, but I'll believe you until an better reason comes along.
 

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