Recomend An Axe

[Siberianfury]

Are GB axe's handmade?Handmade as in the hot metal is passed along a series of shaping dies...

theyre hand forged,
this is how gransfors axes are made,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVty29TYovo

stamped steel is actualy better (userwise) than forged mate, it harbors less impurites and is in uniform quality. although less traditional it makes a stronger blade that is less likely to fail.

 

[demographic]

Another vote for the little Husqvarna hatchet.

I'm not saying any of the others aren't good by the way, its just that the little Husky is a good axe at a very good price.

Not sure about the limbing though, depends on how big the limbs are dunnit?

 

[samthedog]

theyre hand forged,
this is how gransfors axes are made,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVty29TYovo

stamped steel is actualy better (userwise) than forged mate, it harbors less impurites and is in uniform quality. although less traditional it makes a stronger blade that is less likely to fail.

This may be so in terms of high stress parts for motors or parts exposed to high torque but this is not necessarily the case in an axe. Considering good axes are either differentially forged or have a high carbon bit welded in, the steel is generally high enough quality for an axe. If the smith is good you will get a good steel after the forging process providing the raw materials are good quality.

Paul.

 

[addo]

Try re-profiling and sharpening that hatchet in your shed, wont cost a bean!

Some folks do this to a SFA axe if you want to carve, sned with it anyway.

Cheap, old, GB or custom they all work well at most tasks if around the size of a hatchet head with a medium length handle, with a suitable cutting edge.

Ive just got a hult bruks axe for £10. Spent an hour sorting it out and its just as good as a more expensive type forest axe.

 

[Goatboy]

Hi Fury,

I may sound like a busted record - or is it jumping CD... or corrupted file ( I like the idea of being a corrupted file ) but although I do love a good axe and carried one for years at work, I used and still use a Billhook more. You'll pick up a new one for about £16 if you search around, or if you feel like giving a more mature lady a new lease of life head over here... http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/edge_tools/billhooks/billhooks.pg1.php go wild look like an Ork in the woods.

TTFN
Goatboy.

 

[markheolddu]

Plus one on the billhook, In British woodland they are the brilliant. you would need a big axe the outdo a billhook. depending on the style you get they would batton ok to. You can also use as a draw knife.
I like Billhooks

Mark

 

[Hoodoo]

I've had more fun with a wildlife than any other axe/hatchet I own (and that's a bunch). Just depends on what you want to do with it. No single axe is ideal for all things just like there is no "one knife." You make do, you get by, and you learn how to use the tools you have to meet your needs and carry what feels right for you.

 

[Morning Fox]

I've had more fun with a wildlife than any other axe/hatchet I own (and that's a bunch). Just depends on what you want to do with it. No single axe is ideal for all things just like there is no "one knife." You make do, you get by, and you learn how to use the tools you have to meet your needs and carry what feels right for you.

Agree completely. I love my wildlife hatchet too, have done a lot with it.

 

[Siberianfury]

Thanks for the advice fellas, as this is my first Axe purchase im going to go with the majority and Get An SFA, i think versatitily is the most important thing.

 

[rawshak]

I've never come across a task that my SMA could do that my WH couldn't. However, there are many times when the bigger axe would be a disadvantage. I'd go for the smaller WH over the SFA any day in British woodland.

 

[demographic]

This may be so in terms of high stress parts for motors or parts exposed to high torque but this is not necessarily the case in an axe. Considering good axes are either differentially forged or have a high carbon bit welded in, the steel is generally high enough quality for an axe. If the smith is good you will get a good steel after the forging process providing the raw materials are good quality.

Paul.

Highly stressed engine parts like crankshafts and conrods* are mostly drop forged anyway. That ensures that the grain orientation is going in the right direction usually and increases the fatigue life of the part.

After that, the good conrods are polished and shot peened to compress the surface and prevent micro cracks from starting.
Offhand the best conrods I know of are made by Carrillo, they are forged, machined to size (and weight) then shot peened.
Even Drag racing cranks are either forged of machined from a forged billet.
No worries at all about forged being a second rate way of doing things then


*I'm using the example of conrods cos I can't think of any part in an engine that has a harder life when it comes to fatigue as its constantly reciprocating, some are taking about two thousand G's

 

[samthedog]

*I'm using the example of conrods cos I can't think of any part in an engine that has a harder life when it comes to fatigue as its constantly reciprocating, some are taking about two thousand G's

I was thinking more along the lines of rocker arms and possibly the rings.

http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5648

I just can't see where you could use stamped steel in an axe. Sure a knife you could but if it was cost effective and beneficial I am sur there would be producers doing it. As it stands, to get the correct thickness for a decent axe you would be talking about a very thick piece of sheet metal.

Oh, and I have to make a correction on my previous post, i meant to say: "Considering good axes are either differentially *tempered* (not forged) or have a high carbon bit welded in..."

Paul.

 

[Goatboy]

Plus one on the billhook, In British woodland they are the brilliant. you would need a big axe the outdo a billhook. depending on the style you get they would batton ok to. You can also use as a draw knife.
I like Billhooks

Mark

Hi Mark,

I see you are a fellow enlightened soul... We just have to get the Great lord "RAY" of light to endorse us and low they will be the "weapon of choice"
Seriously I do feel like David Soul at a battered wives convention but these ladies do work. They're a work tool that works. It is all shown in their form.

Anyhow preaching to the converted as you are an enlightened chap.

TTFN
Colin.

PS we may have to form a splinter group, ALA Monty Python along the lines of " peoples front of billhooks"....... SPLITTERS

 

[markheolddu]

Hi Mark,

I see you are a fellow enlightened soul... We just have to get the Great lord "RAY" of light to endorse us and low they will be the "weapon of choice"
Seriously I do feel like David Soul at a battered wives convention but these ladies do work. They're a work tool that works. It is all shown in their form.

Anyhow preaching to the converted as you are an enlightened chap.

TTFN
Colin.

PS we may have to form a splinter group, ALA Monty Python along the lines of " peoples front of billhooks"....... SPLITTERS

I know what you meen, dont get me wrong I love axes to but a billhook is hard to beat. But try hedgelaying with an axe my grandfather would turn in his grave:Wow:
They are very under rated which is good in one way cos I can buy them cheep at car boot sales.
I guess if they made damascus ones with shiney blades, iron wood handles and a lovely leather sheath more people would go for them.

Mark

P.s. like the idea of a splinter group might start a thread on it.

 

[leon-1]

Right, time to stop the rot before the Billhook Brigade take this totally off topic.

Josh, you asked a fair question, advice on what axe to buy, we are all guilty of not actually doing the right thing. We have all given suggestions as to what axe and how much they cost, but we didn't tell you what you really needed to know.

Don't buy an axe.

Get the experience of using an axe.

Get to a meet where there will be people who have axes and know how to use them, accompany and observe what they do when they use an axe. If they feel like it they will probably offer you a go (this is very much a lot of trust involved, but people do trust others with a very much prized possession) and throw in a little tuition to boot.

Try a few axes and see what you prefer, you may be very surprised by what you decide. The other reason for trying is that you will be mighty peeved if you fork out £50 on an axe and then later you discover that another axe that had been suggested turns out to be far more to your liking and costs half the price.

samthedog made some good suggestions about setting up an old axe, customising it to best suit your needs, that's what I have done with the Norlund. I think he also mentioned Old Jimbo who has given some of the best advice on axes that I have come across.

Get the experience and then get the axe.

 

[markheolddu]

Well said Leon sorry for disrupting the tread.

Mark

 

[Goatboy]

" Hangs head in shame for being a bad boy" yup you asked about axes, aand there are a plethora of them out there, all have their good and bad points, sorry Mark and I were just saying there are other less discovered options.
We'll start our own thread / splinter group. I do use an axe. A lot. there are so many though. Belzebob found a really nice Husquvarna a while back at a really good price.
Goatboy.

 

[Everything Mac]

did you get this sorted out in the end mate?

i too am after a new axe - and like you cash is limited. - ive been looking on ebay a fair bit as there are often a few bargains for old axes.

not to sound funny but do you have much experience with axes? if not then my recommendation to you would be to get a smaller one if possible. that way you can learn what you are doing.

i have used a good portion of the GB range and they are fine axes! sadly i haven't used the SFA or scandi so i can't comment on them.

thing i have found with axes is that it is better to handle them and get a feel for the balance etc. - nothing worse than buying an axe that doesnt sit right with you for what ever reason.

andy mac

 

[Chance]

We'll be away for Christmas, and I've been allowed to open my present early (also, I don't want to leave timber out in all of this liquid sunshine).
Having spent more than ¼-century splitting with a felling axe, how pleased am I finally to get to use the right tool for the job ? It's cut (pun) the time by about ½.

Not sure what the lesson is, though (except that I get to show off my fancy new GB splitting axe). I'm lucky enough to be able to pick between a chainsaw and a billhook at home, depending on the job; and have always been happiest with a folding saw and a knife when camping. Going against the grain (pun, again), I prefer my triangular folding saw to the orthodox Laplander.

So, that'll be no help, then.

 

[Le Loup]

I recommend you get an English Trade pattern tomahawk. I have been in the country all my life and carry my light tomahawk with me all the time in the woods.
The helve fits into the eye from the top and is tapered, just like a pickaxe or mattock. This makes the helve easy to make and replace should it break.
They are excellent for throwing either for sport or hunting. I use my plain round poll tomahawk for a variety of tasks, including: trap construction, making shelter pegs and hammering them in using the poll, same for trap stakes. Primitive shelter construction. Mostly I don't need to cut firewood in the forest, dead wood can easily be broken over a rock, but the tomahawk is quite capable of cutting firewood or doing shaping tasks.
I see no way of adding an image here, but if you go to my blog and put TOMAHAWK in the search, you should find images and information.
Regards, Le Loup.
http://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com