Nessmuks available?

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tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
So much for my good intentions! I had intended it to be the scandi grind in the drawing but after several hours filing, grinding and screaming its ended up with pretty much the same profile as my MoD type D.

Rather than a nice crisp edge and big flat bevel from the 20mm line it tapers into a gentle curve on both sides I slapped the GATCO honing guide thingy on it and have put a flat bevel about 3.5mm wide on each side using the 22 degree holes. Saying that the blade is so much wider than the guide alows for its probably more like 19 degrees.

One thing is certain I am now in even greater admiratrion for you guys who make the works of art we see on this forum, often with a lot less shiny kit than I have to play with.

Now for several days getting all the marks off the blade and I will be back with the next pics asking how to temper it!

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Cheers! I'm not sure I could take the sleep deprivation! I was fiiling away to the early hours!

Anyroad, I'm now working on getting all the dinks and scratches out of the blade section (a bit pointless as its going to get battered but I tend to go all 'retentive on polishing things) Heres as far as I have got

bevel%20on.jpg


Now the questions, what size holes do you all reckon for the pins to hold the scales on?

And the big one, does anyone do a hardening and tempering service? Ideally one that includes putting the final edge on her?

ATB

Tom
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
2,630
4
England's most easterly point
For the pins I'd probably go for 6mm, you can easily get brass rods and tubes from B&Q, they got 4 and 6mm, that's where I get most of mine.

I'd offer to do the heat treat for you, but my blow torch would struggle with that size of blade, it works well with the size blades I generally make but not for the size of your blade. I made a 8/9" blade some while back and Launditch1 did the heat treat for me in his forge. No trouble there at all!
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Cheers for the thought anyroad!

I've only a extremely wimpy blow torch myself

I think I may have some 6 mil bras rod (a old stair rod) floating about. I've still got to source some wood for the scales but until I can get the blade finished thtas a bit academic.

ATB

Tom

For the pins I'd probably go for 6mm, you can easily get brass rods and tubes from B&Q, they got 4 and 6mm, that's where I get most of mine.

I'd offer to do the heat treat for you, but my blow torch would struggle with that size of blade, it works well with the size blades I generally make but not for the size of your blade. I made a 8/9" blade some while back and Launditch1 did the heat treat for me in his forge. No trouble there at all!
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
2,630
4
England's most easterly point
I just remembered. I think that M Wardell does heat treat as well as supplying knife making stuff. Might be worth contacting him for your heat treatment.

Also, might be worth drilling the holes in the handle before you get the treatment done....:rolleyes:
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Cheers have dropped him a e to see!

Yup drilling 3 holes for the pins is schedule for today, and then more polishing of the blade

Toying with a 4th hole for a lanyard ...

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Discovered (well it.s new to me) what a good job a bog standard orbital sander does on removing the scratches from the Big Nessy. I'm not sure how good it would be on a narrow blade but on one a good 2 inches wide it seams to be keeping it flat and not rounding the edges off.

I've cut some wet and dry to fit the clips on the sander and will work my way through the grades. I will have to get some real fine stuff on Monday as 320 is the smallest grit I have in stock at the moment.

ATB

Tom
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
2,630
4
England's most easterly point
Discovered (well it.s new to me) what a good job a bog standard orbital sander does on removing the scratches from the Big Nessy. I'm not sure how good it would be on a narrow blade but on one a good 2 inches wide it seams to be keeping it flat and not rounding the edges off.

I've cut some wet and dry to fit the clips on the sander and will work my way through the grades. I will have to get some real fine stuff on Monday as 320 is the smallest grit I have in stock at the moment.

ATB

Tom

That sound like a good trick, Tom. Never thought of that one!! I'll have to give it a go.:You_Rock_

Thinking about it, you could even mount the sander upside down in some way, and hold the blade, that should keep it flat, even if it's a narrow one. I like that idea, all that sanding by hand can be a real pain in the....elbows:rolleyes:
 
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tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
It works rather well and saved me a a load of time I reckon.

sandingblade.jpg



I Found some scraps of 1000 grit wet and dry so have, as far as I'm going to, finished the blade prior to heat treating. I just need to get that done.

It's looking a lot better than I could have hoped and I've certainly learned plenty.

BladeFinished.jpg


Minus the scales and pins it weighs in at 15.5 oz or if you prefer 439 gms.

Now to find a heat treater and some suitable wood for the grips. I'm thinking of something quite quite slim with the lanyard hole exposed.

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Cheers! I used 320 grit on the orbital then gave it a quick rub with the bits of 100 grit I found.

I then remembered I had a 2 inch wide cotton wheel to go on the bench grinder so I stripped the fine wheel off that and fitted the buffing wheel to the spindle extender that came as a freebie with it along with a wire brush wheel and XL guard.

A couple of minutes on that and bobs your uncle! To be honest the blade was just about as shiny before it went to the wheel but what the hell, it was worth a try!

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Hi All
sorry for bumping this up but so far I've had no joy finding someone to harden and temper the 8 inch blade Nessmuk.

I've looked into doing it myself but it's beyond my capacity under current circumstances.

So if anyone knows of anyone else apart from Mr Wardell, who may yet get back to me after the holidays, who provides a heat treating service I would be profoundly greatful to hear from them.

Thanks and a happy new year to you all!

ATB

Tom
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
I would make a narrow tang blade with the scrap, and you could make some marking scribes with the shorter stuff.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Hi all
the blade is currently off with Bernie Garland to be heat treated.

I've found I have a piece of rather handsome fiddleback maple (whoever gave it to me back in the mists of time thanks!) to make the scales and have the bits to make some mosaic pins although how well they come out is anyones guess!.

Thanks to all who have given me such excellent advice and help throughout this project

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Its been a while but I have got on with the Big Nessy that Duncan designed. Bernie Garland took pity on me and did the heattreating and "cleaned up the grind" which translates to he did a proper job rather than leave it in the state I left it!

Anyroad I am deeply indebted to both of them.

I've cleaned up the blade and am now waiting for the araldite to cure before drilling through for the pins and applying the other scale.

halfgrip.jpg


In the end I decided on plain tubes for the pins and no liners as I want it to look vaguely 1930s.

ATB

Tom
 
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tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Got the scales on now and the tube pins

pinsin.jpg


I made a pigs ear of the first pin, tried to gently tap it in but it deformed quite badly. After I got it out I used what I think is the approved method.

pushingpin.jpg


As you can see I have left plenty of wood to shape. I've not decided on the final thickness or profile yet. Any sugestions? I will of course be constantly checking it to my hand but and advice would be appreciated.

ATB

Tom
 

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