My BGS (Backpack Gasification Stove)

[Jonboy83]

Hi all thought I'd share todays project with you, last week I spent a day in aincient woods around Dinefwr Castle with a fellow bushcrafter, Woodstock. While there he got out his BushBuddy stove, I had heard of them but never actually seen one, and after discovering the price on them, I know why I hadn't! anyway I decided to have a bash at making one so here it is

and here it is burning

and the missus even made a bag for it

this cost me £9 to make apart from the £15 for heatproof paint but theres enough there to do 20 of these, so was wondering, for those that cannot afford to buy the named brands of gasification stoves, Or are not DIY minded, if you saw one of these in a shop would you pay say, a Tenner for one of these? Just as a query to see if this is worth pursuing ATB Jono

 

[luckylee]

just my oppinion bud, but think this would look much better with the holes drilled in the bottom.
just my oppinion tho mate.
take care.
lee

 

[lannyman8]

me likes...

 

[Jonboy83]

just my oppinion bud, but think this would look much better with the holes drilled in the bottom.
just my oppinion tho mate.
take care.
lee

Fully agree but didn't have a 10mm drill bit so in the true spirit of bushcraft I improvised lol getting a new drill set for Xmas (if the missus loves me )

 

[JJJ]

I like it, and thoroughly approve of using the churchkey. They have probably been used to make hobo stoves since they were invented, and this has to be one of the most efficient hobo's. The materials for this stove have been made since at least 1772 in the Netherlands, though the churchkey ( Googled) was patented in 1990. I have had a churchkey in my pack for 35 years. We used to drink a Partyfour and a Partyseven.Use one to make a stove and the other to cook in...happy days!

Did you seal the top of the stove in anyway so that the gases were only reignited when they flow through the upper/inner holes?

This stove will last for years, when you get your drills it might occur to you to go up market and trying stainless containers. I have found that once they have been heated that tin and stainless look the same, but stainless does have the edge if you seek to sell them.

A tip if you use a drill, is to turn or carve a circular piece of wood to go inside the stove as you drill. It will stop the stove buckling in as you apply pressure and leaves a hole that needs less work to clean the burr afterwards.

Nice work, I look forward to seeing your next stove.

John

 

[Jonboy83]

Did you seal the top of the stove in anyway so that the gases were only reignited when they flow through the upper/inner holes?

This stove will last for years, when you get your drills it might occur to you to go up market and trying stainless containers. I have found that once they have been heated that tin and stainless look the same, but stainless does have the edge if you seek to sell them.

A tip if you use a drill, is to turn or carve a circular piece of wood to go inside the stove as you drill. It will stop the stove buckling in as you apply pressure and leaves a hole that needs less work to clean the burr afterwards.

Nice work, I look forward to seeing your next stove.

John

The main compartment is stainless, couldnt find a stainless cylinder to fit central compartment I used fire cement to seal the joins. refining the Idea and going to see a local engineering company see how much to manufacture them If i can get them made at a low price looking to supply as lately Bushcraft seems to be in fashion and the prices of basic items are getting ridiculous but glad you liked and thanks for the Info
so in effect a micro churchkey (didn't know they were called that)

 

[Jonboy83]

sorry bottom bit about micro churchkey is tired human nonsense lol going to bed so brain can rest and i stop typing crap lol

 

[monkey boy]

hi mate just tried to PM you back but its saying your inbox is full

 

[xylaria]

I found an old but very sturdy hand drill of my dads you can borrow. I also have a pot of fire cement, which i got awaiting me to do a simerlar job but life got in the way. I can knock up the bags for them really quickly, the geezer in ammanford market does the those toggle things, i'll get some.

please note: this jono is a total geinus, he had a one look at a 100 quid commercial gasifier and made this. He has made a crook knife from an old file scrap and ply wood that has better blade comfier handle than any you could buy, it wouldnt win a beauty prize, but it is ace tool. He has made his own treadle lathe, knife etc etc.

 

[roger-uk]

Yes I'd pay that for one as its beyond my skill base but if your material costs are £9 surely minimum would need to be £15 to ensure your not out of packet

 

[bilmo-p5]

This sort of thing makes nice, neat holes, particularly in thin metal like tin cans. They're available in various sizes & shapes.

 

[mbiraman]

I've got a Bush Buddy but have made a few stoves for other folks . The drill bit you want to drill sheet metel is called a unibit or step drill. It make a hole like a hot knife in butter ,very clean and easy,,but they are an investment,,,cost more than your first stove.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/unibit-step-drill-sets

bill

 

[Jonboy83]

I found an old but very sturdy hand drill of my dads you can borrow. I also have a pot of fire cement, which i got awaiting me to do a simerlar job but life got in the way. I can knock up the bags for them really quickly, the geezer in ammanford market does the those toggle things, i'll get some.

please note: this jono is a total geinus, he had a one look at a 100 quid commercial gasifier and made this. He has made a crook knife from an old file scrap and ply wood that has better blade comfier handle than any you could buy, it wouldnt win a beauty prize, but it is ace tool. He has made his own treadle lathe, knife etc etc.

Cheers never been called a Genius before my head is swelling now lol can't wait toget out with you guys again really enjoyed last time ATB guys

 

[Chiseller]

All praise to yer , but what's the real difference between one o these and a hobo ? What happens to the ash build up ? Cheers

Sent from my E10i using Tapatalk

 

[Jonboy83]

All praise to yer , but what's the real difference between one o these and a hobo ? What happens to the ash build up ? Cheers

Sent from my E10i using Tapatalk

Hi mate, In my opinion There are 2 differences
1. Gasification is more economical, your getting 2 burns from 1 fuel thus using less fuel
2. as you can see in your photo, the "grate" of your fire is in direct contact with the floor, In a pine forest or peatland
this is high fire risk, whereas the double skinned design of the gasification stoves leaves the bottom coo, no heat transfer
greatly reduces fire risk.
and with a modification to my design suggested by a friend the ash build up will fall to the bottom

But thats just my opinion, glad you liked ATB

 

[xylaria]

A wood gasifier is hugly more effienct than a hobo, the one we have just made boiled one litre of water in 8 minutes with dry tinder. They use a lot less wood and make less smoke that any other form of wood fire.

 

[ged]

+

Hi all thought I'd share todays project with you ... was wondering, for those that cannot afford to buy the named brands of gasification stoves, Or are not DIY minded, if you saw one of these in a shop would you pay say, a Tenner for one of these?

Roger-uk is right, a tenner isn't enough. I know I can make one, but I've fiddled about with tin cans to see what happens to things like the air flow and it obviously needs more time than I'm prepared to put into it. I can afford a Bushbuddy, Bushcooker, or any other wood gas stove you might mention, but anybody who knows me well will tell you that I'm a tight git and what they're asking for those things seems to me to be excessive. I'd have paid thirty, in fact I did just that for the Emberlit stove which is a lot simpler and isn't even a wood gas stove.

The Emberlit stove does pack nice and flat though, and if you can come up with something that packs flat AND is a wood gas stove you'll make a name for yourself at least in my book.

I wouldn't want one to fail in the field because the fire cement fell out in my pack.

With the amount of rain I get when I go camping, mild steel parts would rust through too quickly so I wouldn't want one with mild steel parts.

I don't know if you've estimated the heat output, but I'd say maximum output of 3kW to 5kW would be a good target range to boil a kettle reasonably quickly, and also it ought to be possible to make the output low enough to simmer e.g. a rice meal. It should burn cleanly at all heat outputs within your stated range, obviously outside the design range bets will be off with any wood stove.

So never mind a tenner, if you can make me one that works well in (all) stainless, no fire cement or other stuff like that which will break and/or get lost, I'll pay thirty quid for it whenever it's ready. How's that?

Hope this helps a bit.

 

[woodstock]

A wood gasifier is hugly more effienct than a hobo, the one we have just made boiled one litre of water in 8 minutes with dry tinder. They use a lot less wood and make less smoke that any other form of wood fire.

You can have a look at the stove in action over on bushcraft living, god knows how you get a pic uploaded on here
http://www.bushcraftliving.com/forums/showthread.php?p=152470#post152470

 

[xylaria]

they work relly well

 

[Jonboy83]

You can have a look at the stove in action over on bushcraft living, god knows how you get a pic uploaded on here
http://www.bushcraftliving.com/forums/showthread.php?p=152470#post152470

Looks like a very good burn will definately be doing the same mod to mine how were the Blewits? any good?