Tom, You have had a real Bargain buy with that draw knife. You are hard pushed to find one on ebay for under £20.
Well I didn't have any suitable tubing for collars so the handles will be a bit more fragile than I'd have liked but they are on and a good fit to my hands. I used a carboot rolling pin for the wood, a convenient source of round section seasoned beech. I only pick them up when they are under a quid.
I've put six coats of linseed oil on them so far. I filled the gaps with araldite and riveted the washers onto the ends of the tangs so the handles are well fixed on. Now to put a final edge on it. I'll do a cover for it over the weekend.
i've recently tried out oxcillic acid for derusting but except for cases where there's chrome ( which ox' does not effect ) I've gone back to Citric acid for general use. It seams to work better on deep rust and is much cheaper and less toxic. Ok the nasty black residue it leaves behind needs to cleaned off but a wide wire brush on a bench grinder sorts that quick enough. Best to have a light touch for that if there's cutting edges to preserve.
Solution strength? Well a heaped tablespoon per quart of boiling water is what I normally use and a soak of under a hour. More and longer if it needs it. Once out of the solution I dunk it in boiling water to heat the metal up and pat it dry with rags, the heat of the metal will finish the drying of any crevices. After getting rid of the residue that forms I oil the item and buff that off with more rags then lightly oil it again before sharpening or what ever else needs doing.
ATB
Tom
In the end I took three grades of diamond stones down to superfine on the back of the blade then gave the edge a quick wipe with a ceramic rod. It's pretty sharp but the angles not as low as on my others so I may need to lower it.