making a bucksaw
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Articles? We had a full blown competiton!
Click on the links marked "build a bucksaw" in the list below
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1301584&DoReWrite4
Red
Click on the links marked "build a bucksaw" in the list below
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1301584&DoReWrite4
Red
Long time before you joined - it was a while ago
This compertition link
Semi Final - One
Semi Final - Two
Final
That was hard work!
Have a close look at this one that my friend Decado made last week during a camping trip in Algonquin Provincial Park in Ontario, Canada - he used small nails to secure the cross pieces to the vertical ones:
cheers,
Mungo
cheers,
Mungo
You don't enven absolutely need the small nails on the rustic saws. I made one similar to that on a trip to Sweden this spring and just used pressure to hold it all together. Used it to cut a round from a 10inch+ dead spruce to use as a splitting block.
Two things I found, one, 24" blades are way too short, get the longer ones are lots better, and use dead wood if you can get it, it makes the saw lighter and easier to use.
It was nicer to use, I found, than a metal frame bow saw, it rewarded good technique.
Two things I found, one, 24" blades are way too short, get the longer ones are lots better, and use dead wood if you can get it, it makes the saw lighter and easier to use.
It was nicer to use, I found, than a metal frame bow saw, it rewarded good technique.
I made this one last week ,
Twodogs
Really like that, who does the cross piece work, or fit together?
Thought this might be interesting to...someone
Well, I received a couple of requests for an improvised saw I decided today to try to make one. It is cheap and it means carrying the minimum of materials. Here’s what I started with
1 SAK (with saw), a hank of field line, two key rings and a 24” saw blade. The plan in future will be to slide the saw blade into the pocket of my Bergan where the frame sits – so no space overhead and a minimal weight implication
Well the first step was to get some wood for the frame. Out came the SAK saw blade (I could do all this with a belt knife but it would take a little longer). A couple of bits of hazel were quickly harvested. They were 1 ½” thick (and overdue for coppicing anyway).
Next step is to measure the saw blade against the thinnest piece. This piece will form the cross member. Its worth remembering that the saw blade will have a keyring through the holes and project beyond each upright. Measure it like that and assume the crosspiece needs to be 2” shorter than distance between the holes
Next I sawed a ring about ¼ of the way through the cross member. This ring is about ½” from the end of the cross member and all the way around it.
Then I used the main SAK blade to cut straight down through the limb to the saw cut.
Four of these cuts result in a square “peg” at the end of the cross member. I repeated this at the other end.
Next job was to make a socket for the peg to sit in. I decided to locate the socket about a quarter way down the uprights. I sawed about 1/3 of the way through the upright and then used the knife blade to carve out a square socket
The next job was to make slots for the saw blade to sit in. I sawed these but they could be sliced just as easily. Sawing them does avoid the tendency for the split to run however
The last step in making the three main pieces was to carve two notches to hold the tensioning cord
Lastly I need a bar to twist the tensioning cord. I split an off cut of hazel and drilled a hole using the awl on the SAK
Next step is to assemble the saw – it went together fairly well (although I needed to trim the pegs to get a good fit)
A few final pictures of the saw assembled may help to explain what I did
The peg and socket joint
The tension cord notch
The tension bar
Its really not tricky to do, although it is hard to make one as tight as a “workshop made” take down saw. As in all things – my next one will be quicker and better!
Red
With this way, slide the blade into you billy can or rucksack frame pocket - and sort out a saw frame without having to carry it (lazy - thats me)
Well, I received a couple of requests for an improvised saw I decided today to try to make one. It is cheap and it means carrying the minimum of materials. Here’s what I started with
1 SAK (with saw), a hank of field line, two key rings and a 24” saw blade. The plan in future will be to slide the saw blade into the pocket of my Bergan where the frame sits – so no space overhead and a minimal weight implication
Well the first step was to get some wood for the frame. Out came the SAK saw blade (I could do all this with a belt knife but it would take a little longer). A couple of bits of hazel were quickly harvested. They were 1 ½” thick (and overdue for coppicing anyway).
Next step is to measure the saw blade against the thinnest piece. This piece will form the cross member. Its worth remembering that the saw blade will have a keyring through the holes and project beyond each upright. Measure it like that and assume the crosspiece needs to be 2” shorter than distance between the holes
Next I sawed a ring about ¼ of the way through the cross member. This ring is about ½” from the end of the cross member and all the way around it.
Then I used the main SAK blade to cut straight down through the limb to the saw cut.
Four of these cuts result in a square “peg” at the end of the cross member. I repeated this at the other end.
Next job was to make a socket for the peg to sit in. I decided to locate the socket about a quarter way down the uprights. I sawed about 1/3 of the way through the upright and then used the knife blade to carve out a square socket
The next job was to make slots for the saw blade to sit in. I sawed these but they could be sliced just as easily. Sawing them does avoid the tendency for the split to run however
The last step in making the three main pieces was to carve two notches to hold the tensioning cord
Lastly I need a bar to twist the tensioning cord. I split an off cut of hazel and drilled a hole using the awl on the SAK
Next step is to assemble the saw – it went together fairly well (although I needed to trim the pegs to get a good fit)
A few final pictures of the saw assembled may help to explain what I did
The peg and socket joint
The tension cord notch
The tension bar
Its really not tricky to do, although it is hard to make one as tight as a “workshop made” take down saw. As in all things – my next one will be quicker and better!
Red
With this way, slide the blade into you billy can or rucksack frame pocket - and sort out a saw frame without having to carry it (lazy - thats me)
I've made a mini foldable bucksaw and I like it although there are alot of possible improvements. I found that round corners on the tenon are important for correct tension of the blade. When folded the blades teeths are hidden in the handles.
In folded mode
In Action mode!
In folded mode
In Action mode!
BOD
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Compared to what? A fixed bowsaw? Nothing beyond it folding.
Compared to a small hand saw - the long blade length when cutting up larger wood
Red
Compared to a small hand saw - the long blade length when cutting up larger wood
Red
You can make the frame when you arrive, don't have to carry it, and if you do, it folds down and packs better than a bowsaw. Have you tried fitting even a 24 inch bowsaw in a 45litre sack?
It goes, but it isn't exactly a comfy fit.
