Lets get some pictures up

[Stew]

So what type of sheath do they have now??

Nearly bought one a while back, seemed to have the same sheath as in the Picture??


>> http://www.sheffieldknives.co.uk/shop/Hunting_Knives1966.htm

My one is different to the one in your link but if you read the description it says flat sheath or moulded sheath (pictured)

This is an excellent slicer. The con of the design is that there's no clearance for the fingers so it's necessary to chop with your hand overhanging the board.
I will warn you that mine also has a bit of a gap between one of the scales and the metal, giving the possibility for food to get trapped.
I'll probably rehandle it one day.

 

[Andy]

Dtalbot had major scale problems but they sorted it out very well. You can get them with a sharpening steel included which is handy.
The sheath I saw was similar to a scandy sheath but with two slits at the top for a belt. Not really wide enough IMO

 

[Stew]

I've had the knife too long to ask them to sort it out, plus there's extra satisfaction in doing it myself. I have a piece of Indian Silky Oak that would be big enough for the handles and a wooden sheath for it as well.

The sheath you mention looks like the one in the link.

 

[theorsmeister]

This is my Grohmann Original #1 Design knife. I got it in carbon steel, very easy to sharpen, good edge retention and strong as anything. The sheath was a little light in colour at first, so I used some linseed oil, which darkened it and it looks great.

Sorry, I only got this pic off the website, I have not taken one of it yet.

 

[Angus Og]

I got this from Gerd Jørgensen in March the details below are taken from the email he sent to me. Hope he doesn’t mind. It’s a great knife well balanced feels good in the hand and good to use I like it a lot.

This knife is made with the model "Felleskap" knife blade by Trond Pedersen (Trond on BritishBlades.com) from Norway. The blade is carbon steel, which will rust unless oiled etc.
I have reprofiled the complete blade as follows: approximately 5-7 mm has been ground off the spine from the bottom of the handle to approximately 3 cm from the point. The handle has been shortened by about 18 mm, and then reprofiled to new handle shape. The front of the handle has been modified by grinding most of the finger guard off and reprofiled (ground into the handle) to a shape that I like better, and think gives more control in delicate carving. New holes for mosaic pins and thong tube was then drilled.

Handle is made of Curly Grained Birch from Siberia, Russia. The red spacing material between wood and steel in the handle is red Vulcan Fibre. Mosaic pins and thong tube of brass. Handle has been oil treated with a mixture of linseed oil, Benar oil (brand name) thinned with turpentine for better penetration. Handle has been standing in oil mixture for about 24 hours. As this is a bushcraft type outdoor knife, the handle should be oiled once a year or so - depending on how often the knife is used - to keep it as waterproof as possible. You can use ordinary linseed oil for this (boiled linseed oil would be fine - it dries quicker).

Sheath is made of 3; 5 mm thick vegetable tanned leather. Wet formed to the shape of the knife, then dried and dyed black.
Sheath has been treated with a mix of lanoline, peanut oil, bees wax and some caranauba wax. You can keep the leather waterproofed by using normal shoe polish (black or neutral) or any stuff that you would use for leather boots etc.

Ps These are his photos as well.

 

[riddleofsteel]

Stewart Marsh bushcraft with ivory Micarta grip, whitetail deer antler slide on laynard

Nessmuck trio Bark River style
Bark River Mini Axe
Bark River Northstar
Buck Stockman

Handmade bushman knife from old saw blade, convex grind

Gerber Sambar stag bowie with Ruger Blackhawk .45 Colt, Sambar stag grips

 

[riddleofsteel]

Case XX Damascus skinner with Sambar stag grips

Nessmuck trio with
reprofiled Norlund camp axe
Bark River Northstar
Busck Stockman

 

[tomtom]

well its about time i got something in this thread.. i just re-read it all and lots of links and such are down so get your pictures up everyone (well dont to hoodoo and schwert for a valiant effort for picture domination.. keep them coming your photos are always a pleasure!)
The Folders

The FixedBlades

apologies for the rubbish pictures.. has anyone any advice on how to make a super cheap diffused light source!?

 

[Andy]

get some sheets of tissue paper and have a big powerful light behind it

 

[mark a.]

has anyone any advice on how to make a super cheap diffused light source!?

A window with a net curtain is ideal. You can also use a white card / tin foil / sheet etc to bounce light back to fill in the shadows. (Btw, I can't actually see your pictures as photobucket is barred at work, so the above answer might not be relevant at all.)

 

[BorderReiver]

Gerber Sambar stag bowie with Ruger Blackhawk .45 Colt, Sambar stag grips

Please don't post beautiful pictures of handguns,we're not allowed to have them in the UK anymore and pictures like yours bring tears to my eyes.

 

[Hellz]

How about a Case Damascus Canoe?

 

[AJB]

"has anyone any advice on how to make a super cheap diffused light source!?"

Instead of defusing a large source, you can put your subject in a diffusing tent. Make a cone out of tissue or grease proof paper and sit it over your subject, insert the lens at the point, and light with table lamps. That will give good results with digital (because of the ability to white balance to the probable 3000 Kelvin of a domestic tungsten light bulb) but with colour film you will end up with a horrible orange cast (Colour film requires 5500K, you can buy tungsten balanced amateur film, but that will require about 3400K) The best thing to do is take the whole tent outside on a sunny day.

The addition of a bit of fill-in or high-light reflected light can make all the difference. Be careful about what you bounce the light off, as this can cause a colour shift as well; a good white card would be ok. The best way to learn how to do this is put your camera away and look at the subject, study its illumination and see how moving reflected light around it can alter the way it looks, remember that light doesn’t just have to come from the front, it can be directed at the back of the subject as well. Also light “skimming” across a surface will bring out texture. Finally, you don’t have to just reflect light. If your subject is itself reflective (a knife blade or glass) you can reflect a piece of dark card in it – negative lighting – it will often show up detail difficult to “light”.

Hope that helped

AJB

 

[ESpy]

http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/19002-1.html ?
Translucent storage crates work OK (but knock the light down a lot); Maplin do a cheap light tent...

http://www.digihack.net/2005_02_26_article.php

 

[beach bum]

Have a look in your local Pound shop for a fold down laundry basket, that and some curtain net type material and you've got a half way tidy light box. Question then of either balancing your colour on camera or at light source.


regards


beach bum

 

[Ogri the trog]

Well, after learning the dark art of picture posting, here we go,

Left is the Puukko that I bought of Beachlover (cheers Buddy ) and right is the Nordic knife that I made from a Brisa kit. Just enough to whet the appetite to make some more in the not-too-distant future!

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[leon-1]

Nice work mate, I have a few projects running so I'll post when they are finished

 

[firemaker]

I got one I can add. I forged it from a file with a cocobolo, zebra wood & birch burl handle.