Knife grind angles , Preferences & Job rolls ?

[Paddytray]

Ok so I have filed this 5 mm thick blank 15° each side giving it a 30° overall blade . I envisioned it being a good knife for working with wood chopping rather than slicing would you guys agree with that ?

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[HillBill]

Work looks well done mate.

From a design/function standpoint, the blade is too short to chop well, It will be handle heavy with scales on, and the shape the edge runs at does't offer much belly, again meaning it won't bite as deep if chopping. Its too thick to be slicer, and the bevel is too steep to do well cutting into wood, should plane well though, and i reckon it will make a good feather stick

 

[Paddytray]

Thank you advice from you is well received mate your work is fantastic. So what would you recommend I do to alter this knife . It's blade is 4.5" by 1.5" . Even if I can't realistically alter it now any ideas welcome

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[Paddytray]

You see why I started the thread lol

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[Hedgecrafter]

The blade is a bit thick to have a scandi. If you can make it full flat with a convex edge it might work better as a general utility knife.
I would be tempted to give it a saber grind, but you risk the edge being too thin and it might not have the strength.

It looks like you have done a nice job on the grinding, so I'd leave it. It's a nice robust survival knife. Just because it's not designed to chop or carve doesn't mean it won't do the job. Heat treat, slap some scales on and job done.
You will benefit far more by making another knife, than trying to change the design half way through.

I just read your first post again. If you want it to batton with then they'd probably a good design.
Maybe heat treat wrap it in paracord and whack it through some wood. If you find it sticks too much then grind the shoulders off the bevel to give it a steep convex edge, heat treat again then slap some scales on

 

[HillBill]

Your real problem is the thickness. If it was 3mm, it would make a decent bushy. Anything over 3mm on a bushy with a scandi grind represents a lack of knowledge on both steel and usage. A 2mm knife, properly heat treated would be better still. Can't tell that to folk though.... Ray's knife is 4mm, so thats the be all and end all for many

A properly shaped and aligned 2mm thick blade, will cut deeper than a 4mm blade, just because there is less resistance generated from the wood while its being cut into.... i have a machete... its 2.5mm thick, 18" blade, and it will cut deeper than my small forest axe. It weighs less, is much more flexible, yet cuts much much better.

Thickness (over engineered) is a bad thing on a knife.... a good heat treat means more than thicker steel.

Thank you advice from you is well received mate your work is fantastic. So what would you recommend I do to alter this knife . It's blade is 4.5" by 1.5" . Even if I can't realistically alter it now any ideas welcome

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[Paddytray]

To be honest this is all a hobby to me and I am just getting to grips with it all .
Everything i've made is from my drawings then to steel .
I prefer a 3mm blade myself But we must play so I brought some 5mm stock.
I've no intention of selling anything as of yet just enjoying the practice and making mistakes and learning along the way .
This thread was started in hope of learning a few things in regards to thickness angle and function as I do know very little about the different variations of blades.
I think I will take this one to 22 degrees and keep it as a camp knife .

 

[HillBill]

Are you right or left handed?

 

[Paddytray]

right handed

 

[HillBill]

Wanna try an experiment?

 

[Paddytray]

yeah go on then

 

[Paddytray]

sorry for some reason I missed your advice . Thank you

The blade is a bit thick to have a scandi. If you can make it full flat with a convex edge it might work better as a general utility knife.
I would be tempted to give it a saber grind, but you risk the edge being too thin and it might not have the strength.

It looks like you have done a nice job on the grinding, so I'd leave it. It's a nice robust survival knife. Just because it's not designed to chop or carve doesn't mean it won't do the job. Heat treat, slap some scales on and job done.
You will benefit far more by making another knife, than trying to change the design half way through.

I just read your first post again. If you want it to batton with then they'd probably a good design.
Maybe heat treat wrap it in paracord and whack it through some wood. If you find it sticks too much then grind the shoulders off the bevel to give it a steep convex edge, heat treat again then slap some scales on

 

[HillBill]

On the side of the knife with the angles wrote on it.... file it away at a 6 degree angle.... leave the other side completely as is....

 

[Paddytray]

Heel to tip or handle

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[HillBill]

You've lost me there dude A little elaboration would help.

 

[Paddytray]

Snap lol I didn't understand where you suggested I file mate .

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[Paddytray]

File the whole blade and handle one side using the half way mark as 0° ?

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[HillBill]

One side of the blade only..... the side with the angles wrote on? The side facing you when held in the right hand? File it away, at 6 degrees... only that side, leave the other as is at 15 degrees.. Only the bevel, not the handle... just the bit already filed o that side..... you will have 2 different sides... one with a 6 degree bevel, the other with a 15, giving you a combined bevel of 21 degrees

 

[Paddytray]

I'm filling entirely by hand but I just had a look and I get what your saying so I may try in the near future leave this one on the back burner and finish the other load I've started lol 4 in 5 mm couple others in 3 mm and a decorative dagger also in 5 mm . Putting a handle together for that one is going to be a task it's in the shape of a spiral goddess

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[Paddytray]

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