Five pound sharpening kit

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
The alternative is to use a sanding block (from any DIY store) that clamps the paper in place (then just release the clamp to swap paper). Or cut a slot in each end, wrap the paper over and wedge in place

Red
 

Simon H

Nomad
Feb 20, 2008
476
0
55
The Ashdown Forest
What I use is Spray Mount, artists glue in an aerosol, spray the paper and the wood, stick together, leave facedown for half hour with a weight on the back and job done.
 

galew

Tenderfoot
I see no reason why that wouldn't work. I have used the shiny side of a ceramic tile and Cif cream before instead of a 6,000 grit and Nagura stone- worked well. Its worth finding something like a mildly abrasive paste for the sharpening bit, the car window, knife steel, tile edge part is mainly to snap off the burr.

regards - Red
You can also use the bottom of most ceramic coffee cups, or a fired flower pot
 
D

Deleted member 4605

Guest
Made my set yesterday. Got 12 sheets of wet'n'dry (4 each of 120, 320, and 600) from eBay for £3.99 delivered. I've sawn up an old shelf (which is 205mm deep) for the backing board at about 140mm intervals, which is half the width of the sheets, so I've got enough wood and sheets to make two sets with four "re-fills" each. I used double-sided tape to join the sheets to the wood, and superglued some inner tube pieces for the feet.

The tape, glue, inner tube, and wood I had already, so the total cost so far for my £5 sharpening kit? 50p and about 30mins worth of effort! :D

I had a quick go at sharpening my SAK and Mora last night, and they worked really well. Getting an edge was ridiculously easy, but I struggle with sharpening the curve of the blade. I'm sure it will come in time...

I'm going to look into getting some finer grits, and maybe make some smaller blocks for camps.
 

madra

Member
Oct 6, 2008
33
16
the intarweb
...A ceramic fuse can also be used as a very fine burnisher. (be very careful not to cut yourself)...

or how about one of these? it even comes with a pre-drilled hole through it, for attachment to a leather thong or keyring:

grolschlid.jpg


great thread, by the way!
 
Oct 1, 2007
7
0
GREAT IDEA I think its very good I like the idea of it being small light and easy to use but what about wet and dry ??? or have I gone off the point?
 

JDO330

Nomad
Nov 27, 2007
334
1
Stevenage, Herts.
Ive just looked on the abrasives website detailed on the 1st page and im now super confused by the choice.

BR / anyone, dont suppose you would post here detailing what would be ideal (ie, sheet size, grit etc, etc?).

ATB, Jon.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
I use 240, 400, 600, 1,000, 1,500, 2,500 if I'm going mad (I've given up on the 2 and 5 micron stuff - its like glass and makes no noticeable improvement on a working knife). For working sharp just up to 600 and strop. Just by the normal snadpaper sheets and cut to fit your block. Get a good sized piece of green buffing copound (or green and pink) and it will last a life time for stropping rubbed into leather of even cardboard

Red
 

robin wood

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Oct 29, 2007
3,054
1
derbyshire
www.robin-wood.co.uk
Halfords sell a useful mixed set of wet and dry emery sheets 240, 400, 800,1200 which are ideal.

They also sell Autosol chrome polish which is an excellent fine stropping abrasive paste.
 

JDO330

Nomad
Nov 27, 2007
334
1
Stevenage, Herts.
Thanks Mr Red & Mr Wood, that helps a lot.

Might have to take a little trip to Halford tomorrow. Im really very excited about trying this out.

Out of interest, if my 'blade' isnt megga blunt could I start the process off with say 400 or 800 instead of starting from 240? (ie, if I was going to liven up a brand new Clipper)?

The reason I ask is that I have a new (ish) Clipper which ive been keeping sharp with a Spyderco Sharpmaker so I guess it now has a secodany bevel?

ATb, Jon.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
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It will have a secondary bevel indded - but theres nothing wrong with that - its not great for some uses but better for others.

If you are trying to get back to zero ground (no secondary) then start coarse - you will have a lot of metal to remove. Should you? Thats up to you!
 

smoggy

Forager
Mar 24, 2009
244
0
North East England
Excellent original posting and continued quality throughout the thread.

What I have learned here is that it's not what kit you have ie stones strops etc.....but knowing how to sharpen and hone the edge.....given that I feel reasonable sure I could "find" something regardless of where I was to enable me to maintain an edge...

Thanks to all who contributed above, some great ideas.
 
May 21, 2009
1
0
Gwynedd
thanks for some wonderful ideas.

most of the knives I use are in kitchens and often spend ages getting them sharp enough to use safely. I'm looking forward to making some of sharpening blocks to take with me to my next kitchen with blunt knives.
 

Warrigal

Member
Nov 11, 2006
48
0
56
Brisbane Australia
When fresh out of school I worked in a hardware shop and brought the last couple tubes of Godards glow metal polish in a tube, after being told it was being discontinued.
A couple of years ago I got some Puma ( as in the knives) metal polish also in a tube but now there is no longer an official importer of Puma in OZ.
I have used both of those with great success on both a strop and with a cork sanding block ( for axes)
I recently approached a Puma colector at a gun show if he had a contact for the paste. He put me onto Autosol Metal polish. I used it on the O1 Scandi ground Knife I'm making to polish the bevel using my strop. It polished up really well but auto brought out all the smaller scratches I'd hadn't got rid of.
I mention this because Autosil is made in Germany. I got mine from a car accessory place.
Carl
 

gunslinger

Nomad
Sep 5, 2008
321
0
70
Devon
Every time I go to a mate of mines I keep looking at the pile of scrap marble off cuts and wondering if they are any use for sharpening?

GS
 

alecf

Forager
Jun 7, 2009
180
0
Nr Reading
Thanks for this guys! I've just ordered some 600, 1200, 2500, 6000 and 10000 grit papers from that site =D Then I've already got some 240 and 400. Hopefully I can get my new knife im making shaving then!
 

JDO330

Nomad
Nov 27, 2007
334
1
Stevenage, Herts.
Well, well, well. Im one happy chappy tonight.

I have been following this thread for months thinking I must get round to having a go, especially after following Robin Woods advice and buying the Halfords pack of paper about 3 weeks ago!

So, out in the garage tonight with my Clipper CS, some 240, 600, 800 & 1200 paper, an old belt, some autosol and some off cuts of clean 2 x 2 wood (not as elegant as some kits ive seen admittedly but functional). Anyway, after about an hour of getting the hang of it I now have a bald patch on my forearm (much to SWMBO's disgust!).

My clipper hasnt had much use but ive been giving it a go on the Sharpmaker and its got a pretty good edge but I wanted to get rid of the secondary bevel and this method has been brilliant. Admittedly, I can find fault in what ive done - the curve of the blade isnt as good as the straight part and also one side is slightly more polished than the other but at the end of the day, its shaving so cant be that bad eh!

Happy days....

ATB, Jon.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
Glad it worked!

Lift your sharpening hand a little when working on the tip to keep the cutting edge in contact with the board. Sort or lifting and pushing at the same time. Sounds odd - but it works.

If it shaves hair its sharp enough for all knife purposes! It can get better of course - but most of that is just plain "vanity sharpening" - getting it that sharp "because I can"

Red
 

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