Five pound sharpening kit

JDO330

Nomad
Nov 27, 2007
334
1
Stevenage, Herts.
Thanks for the advice Red, will give it a go.

Out of interest, which part of the sharpening process gives the edge strength or rather edge retention?

Ive noticed that my previous efforts with the Sharpmaker give me a great edge but it doesnt last long - even when just doing feather sticks for example.

I guess I will see in time how the old Clipper hold up now its been done 'old school'!

ATB, Jon.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
A lot (but not all) is due to the grind angle - so a secondary bevel will be stronger but blunter than a primary
 

swanseajack

Member
Jun 13, 2009
33
0
Mumbles
Hiya. I use a straight razor. I can get a razor keen enough to cut arm hairs as you move the razor above your arm (about .5cm off the skin). The most commonly available fine honing compound you can buy is Peeks metal polish. The last hone stone I use on a razor is usually a belgian coticule. It is rated at about 10k grit. I use Peeks after this and it adds considerable to the keeness of the edge. and it works fast. I must admit, it is quite easy to hone a straight razor as the spine of the blade is at just the right angle to form the edge, so it is just a case of moving the razor flat on the hone or strop .
Obviously a knife needs a bit more skill, unless it is complety flat ground with no other bevel.
I use peeks on card that is glued to a flat surface. It's about £2 for a large tube.
 

saddler

Forager
Jun 16, 2009
114
0
Haddington, Scotland
RE - Car Window technique

I was told this about 25 years ago by the secretary of the gun club I was in then. He also said, if you weren't near a car, use the side of a glass bottle

Brilliant thread,

Jon
 

mayobushcraft

Full Member
Mar 22, 2007
260
1
62
Yeovil somerset
I use a piece of 3/8" - 9 mm plate glass and wet dry sand paper then I wet the paper and put it on the glass it will stick very well all that needs to be done is pull it off and stick the next grade on. works great and very cheap.
 

darrenleroy

Nomad
Jul 15, 2007
351
0
51
London
Hi Red,

I've been meaning to do this for a while and got around to it yesterday. I couldn't find any inner tube so I bought some of that non-slip matting you can get for kitchen surfaces. I wish I'd remembered about the blue tac because I could have saved myself three quid.

I did manage to pay just under a fiver for the wood (inch thick MDF off cuts), the sandpaper and the double sided tape. This bought the cost to eight quid which is getting closer to the cost of a DC4, but the sense of making something is nice. It's good to 'do' stuff rather than just buying stuff.

Also, I noticed the 9" by 4" size of the wood block is exactly half the size of the individual sheets of paper. Was that luck or design, Red? Either way it's a nice touch and the perfect width to sharpen my basic Mora.

Using your method I got the blade to a lovely smooth, sharp edge that sliced through paper in a test. I compared it to a stainless steel Mora blade fresh and untouched from the factory and it seemed sharper in the paper test. I didn't strop my blade because I don't have an old belt to hand but I imagine that will take the sharpness up a notch or two. I'm only cutting string and batoning with mine most of the time so I don't know why I bother! But it's fun to try stuff all the same. Now where's that Hobo stove I've been planning...
 

darrenleroy

Nomad
Jul 15, 2007
351
0
51
London
My last post implied my recently sharpened carbon steel Mora was sharper than the stainless steel one I've just received from the factory. I'm sorry, but this wasn't the case. The stainless steel blade came from the factory sharp enough to cut the hairs on my arm. I'm disappointed now.

Maybe it's not possible to get a razor sharp edge using wet and dry? I'm going to have a go using a strop to see if it helps.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
Trust me, with the right grades of wet and dry you can split hairs - vertically!

Its not as easy as it sounds to master though, any "rocking" in the technique messes it right up

Red
 

Johnnyboy1971

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 24, 2010
4,155
26
53
Yorkshire
I made mine using the cheap laminate flooring as it's really light and extremely flat and stuck different grades of paper on each side. Four grades on two pieces of flooring cut to a portable size. Love it cheers Red.

John
 

darrenleroy

Nomad
Jul 15, 2007
351
0
51
London
Trust me, with the right grades of wet and dry you can split hairs - vertically!

Its not as easy as it sounds to master though, any "rocking" in the technique messes it right up

Red

Red,

I was feeling pretty frustrated with my efforts, but then thought, 'It's my first attempt' and decided to have another go. I did a little more research and found a website tutorial that seemed to back up more or less what you suggested. It was good to see a visual representation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BOs20c9gy8&feature=related

I didn't wet the paper (do you think it makes a difference?) but I did pay more attention to each stroke, concentrating on keeping the the bevel area flat.

Hey presto, my knife sharpened right up, to the point where it was as sharp as the stainless steel Mora fresh from the factory. I can now slice through paper with ease (although I haven't managed to get it sharp enough to shave with).

I will keep practising and once again, thanks for the tutorial.
 

Pierr

Forager
Sep 15, 2008
190
0
France
Hi,

don't you have an issue that sometimes the blade just slices in the emeri paper?

I started with japanese waterstones but the result was not very good. Then I moved to emeri paper and got nice results but not really razor sharp.
One day I increased pressure on the edge - like very very slightly adjusting the angle but it is scandi grind and still fundamentally flat on the stone/paper - and got much better results and durable as well. But I started slicing the paper in its thickness. Now I'm back to the Japanese stones and get excellent results with my current technique. Still I like the emeri paper simplicity but this issue of slicing in the paper prevents me to use it.
Do you think I actually have a wrong angle or too much pressure maybe? The result is pretty good (you cannot stroke the arm without shaving hair) and durable.
 
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santaman2000

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Jan 15, 2011
16,909
1,120
68
Florida
Buffing compound comes in all sorts of types, mostly denoted by color. The chromium oxide which is usually green is the best, since it's incredibly fine (0.5 micron) but super abrasive. So it gives about the best polish obtainable in the fastest time. All the other stuff is either coarser, less abrasive, or wears down faster.
When I first found out about it from woodworking forums, I went down to the hardware store and got a fossilized set of buffing sticks. Other than the fact that that the wax base had hardened it worked OK. Later I got a better block from Lee Valley Tools in Canada. Despite giving a bunch away, I still have enough for my lifetime.
There is better stuff, scientific grade diamond lapping compound, which goes even finer. But that's expensive, and probably beyond our needs. Better to stay with something that can be crayoned onto a piece of cardboard or paper, then when the cardboard turns black with removed metal - it's thrown away (without crying over the cost).
You can read the sharpening paper with electron microscope pics, mentioned in the shaving thread, for details on how well it works.

Valve grinding compound is just carburundum - the stuff on emery sheets. I find that by rubbing it into well oiled leather that I can get very fast and good removal of wire edges and some sharpening. A person can also remove wire edges by slicing some newpapers, but that causes edge degradation. Even better than carburundum is the brown slurry from waterstones rubbed into oiled leather.

Given the low cost and little effort with cheap sharpening methods, it's all worth a try. A couple of years ago we did some edge holding tests over at outdoors magazine. I was amazed at how well a properly sharpened Mora did.

I haven't used it for this application but I suspect that jeweler's rouge or jewelry polish or even household silver polish might work.
 

Hulahoop

Member
Feb 23, 2011
11
0
Northampton
I want to sharpen my SAK. I'm guessing the methods you give here will be suitable?

I have a question though, how do I know what angle to do the sharpening at, since the blade is not the same shape as the one used in the first post for demonstration.

This links to our thread about starting knives.
 

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