The alternative is to use a sanding block (from any DIY store) that clamps the paper in place (then just release the clamp to swap paper). Or cut a slot in each end, wrap the paper over and wedge in place
Red
Red
Five pound sharpening kit
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
What I use is Spray Mount, artists glue in an aerosol, spray the paper and the wood, stick together, leave facedown for half hour with a weight on the back and job done.
You can also use the bottom of most ceramic coffee cups, or a fired flower pot
D
Deleted member 4605
Guest
Made my set yesterday. Got 12 sheets of wet'n'dry (4 each of 120, 320, and 600) from eBay for £3.99 delivered. I've sawn up an old shelf (which is 205mm deep) for the backing board at about 140mm intervals, which is half the width of the sheets, so I've got enough wood and sheets to make two sets with four "re-fills" each. I used double-sided tape to join the sheets to the wood, and superglued some inner tube pieces for the feet.
The tape, glue, inner tube, and wood I had already, so the total cost so far for my £5 sharpening kit? 50p and about 30mins worth of effort!
I had a quick go at sharpening my SAK and Mora last night, and they worked really well. Getting an edge was ridiculously easy, but I struggle with sharpening the curve of the blade. I'm sure it will come in time...
I'm going to look into getting some finer grits, and maybe make some smaller blocks for camps.
The tape, glue, inner tube, and wood I had already, so the total cost so far for my £5 sharpening kit? 50p and about 30mins worth of effort!
I had a quick go at sharpening my SAK and Mora last night, and they worked really well. Getting an edge was ridiculously easy, but I struggle with sharpening the curve of the blade. I'm sure it will come in time...
I'm going to look into getting some finer grits, and maybe make some smaller blocks for camps.
or how about one of these? it even comes with a pre-drilled hole through it, for attachment to a leather thong or keyring:
great thread, by the way!
Great tutorial! It's the first time I need to sharpen a knife so I will be following these instructions even more carefully again later!
Pete
Pete
Ive just looked on the abrasives website detailed on the 1st page and im now super confused by the choice.
BR / anyone, dont suppose you would post here detailing what would be ideal (ie, sheet size, grit etc, etc?).
ATB, Jon.
BR / anyone, dont suppose you would post here detailing what would be ideal (ie, sheet size, grit etc, etc?).
ATB, Jon.
I use 240, 400, 600, 1,000, 1,500, 2,500 if I'm going mad (I've given up on the 2 and 5 micron stuff - its like glass and makes no noticeable improvement on a working knife). For working sharp just up to 600 and strop. Just by the normal snadpaper sheets and cut to fit your block. Get a good sized piece of green buffing copound (or green and pink) and it will last a life time for stropping rubbed into leather of even cardboard
Red
Red
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Halfords sell a useful mixed set of wet and dry emery sheets 240, 400, 800,1200 which are ideal.
They also sell Autosol chrome polish which is an excellent fine stropping abrasive paste.
They also sell Autosol chrome polish which is an excellent fine stropping abrasive paste.
Thanks Mr Red & Mr Wood, that helps a lot.
Might have to take a little trip to Halford tomorrow. Im really very excited about trying this out.
Out of interest, if my 'blade' isnt megga blunt could I start the process off with say 400 or 800 instead of starting from 240? (ie, if I was going to liven up a brand new Clipper)?
The reason I ask is that I have a new (ish) Clipper which ive been keeping sharp with a Spyderco Sharpmaker so I guess it now has a secodany bevel?
ATb, Jon.
Might have to take a little trip to Halford tomorrow. Im really very excited about trying this out.
Out of interest, if my 'blade' isnt megga blunt could I start the process off with say 400 or 800 instead of starting from 240? (ie, if I was going to liven up a brand new Clipper)?
The reason I ask is that I have a new (ish) Clipper which ive been keeping sharp with a Spyderco Sharpmaker so I guess it now has a secodany bevel?
ATb, Jon.
It will have a secondary bevel indded - but theres nothing wrong with that - its not great for some uses but better for others.
If you are trying to get back to zero ground (no secondary) then start coarse - you will have a lot of metal to remove. Should you? Thats up to you!
If you are trying to get back to zero ground (no secondary) then start coarse - you will have a lot of metal to remove. Should you? Thats up to you!
Excellent original posting and continued quality throughout the thread.
What I have learned here is that it's not what kit you have ie stones strops etc.....but knowing how to sharpen and hone the edge.....given that I feel reasonable sure I could "find" something regardless of where I was to enable me to maintain an edge...
Thanks to all who contributed above, some great ideas.
What I have learned here is that it's not what kit you have ie stones strops etc.....but knowing how to sharpen and hone the edge.....given that I feel reasonable sure I could "find" something regardless of where I was to enable me to maintain an edge...
Thanks to all who contributed above, some great ideas.
When fresh out of school I worked in a hardware shop and brought the last couple tubes of Godards glow metal polish in a tube, after being told it was being discontinued.
A couple of years ago I got some Puma ( as in the knives) metal polish also in a tube but now there is no longer an official importer of Puma in OZ.
I have used both of those with great success on both a strop and with a cork sanding block ( for axes)
I recently approached a Puma colector at a gun show if he had a contact for the paste. He put me onto Autosol Metal polish. I used it on the O1 Scandi ground Knife I'm making to polish the bevel using my strop. It polished up really well but auto brought out all the smaller scratches I'd hadn't got rid of.
I mention this because Autosil is made in Germany. I got mine from a car accessory place.
Carl
A couple of years ago I got some Puma ( as in the knives) metal polish also in a tube but now there is no longer an official importer of Puma in OZ.
I have used both of those with great success on both a strop and with a cork sanding block ( for axes)
I recently approached a Puma colector at a gun show if he had a contact for the paste. He put me onto Autosol Metal polish. I used it on the O1 Scandi ground Knife I'm making to polish the bevel using my strop. It polished up really well but auto brought out all the smaller scratches I'd hadn't got rid of.
I mention this because Autosil is made in Germany. I got mine from a car accessory place.
Carl
Every time I go to a mate of mines I keep looking at the pile of scrap marble off cuts and wondering if they are any use for sharpening?
GS
GS
Thanks for this guys! I've just ordered some 600, 1200, 2500, 6000 and 10000 grit papers from that site =D Then I've already got some 240 and 400. Hopefully I can get my new knife im making shaving then!
Well, well, well. Im one happy chappy tonight.
I have been following this thread for months thinking I must get round to having a go, especially after following Robin Woods advice and buying the Halfords pack of paper about 3 weeks ago!
So, out in the garage tonight with my Clipper CS, some 240, 600, 800 & 1200 paper, an old belt, some autosol and some off cuts of clean 2 x 2 wood (not as elegant as some kits ive seen admittedly but functional). Anyway, after about an hour of getting the hang of it I now have a bald patch on my forearm (much to SWMBO's disgust!).
My clipper hasnt had much use but ive been giving it a go on the Sharpmaker and its got a pretty good edge but I wanted to get rid of the secondary bevel and this method has been brilliant. Admittedly, I can find fault in what ive done - the curve of the blade isnt as good as the straight part and also one side is slightly more polished than the other but at the end of the day, its shaving so cant be that bad eh!
Happy days....
ATB, Jon.
I have been following this thread for months thinking I must get round to having a go, especially after following Robin Woods advice and buying the Halfords pack of paper about 3 weeks ago!
So, out in the garage tonight with my Clipper CS, some 240, 600, 800 & 1200 paper, an old belt, some autosol and some off cuts of clean 2 x 2 wood (not as elegant as some kits ive seen admittedly but functional). Anyway, after about an hour of getting the hang of it I now have a bald patch on my forearm (much to SWMBO's disgust!).
My clipper hasnt had much use but ive been giving it a go on the Sharpmaker and its got a pretty good edge but I wanted to get rid of the secondary bevel and this method has been brilliant. Admittedly, I can find fault in what ive done - the curve of the blade isnt as good as the straight part and also one side is slightly more polished than the other but at the end of the day, its shaving so cant be that bad eh!
Happy days....
ATB, Jon.
Glad it worked!
Lift your sharpening hand a little when working on the tip to keep the cutting edge in contact with the board. Sort or lifting and pushing at the same time. Sounds odd - but it works.
If it shaves hair its sharp enough for all knife purposes! It can get better of course - but most of that is just plain "vanity sharpening" - getting it that sharp "because I can"
Red
Lift your sharpening hand a little when working on the tip to keep the cutting edge in contact with the board. Sort or lifting and pushing at the same time. Sounds odd - but it works.
If it shaves hair its sharp enough for all knife purposes! It can get better of course - but most of that is just plain "vanity sharpening" - getting it that sharp "because I can"
Red
Similar threads
