I am after a first time sharpening set, but not willing to pay too much as I dont want to make a mess of things! what goes into making this kinda set? I mean just a simple list of ingredients! 
Cheers, Bunn :werd:
Cheers, Bunn :werd:
Five pound sharpening kit
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
Bunnerz,
Three flat bits of "stuff" (wood, tiles whatever)
3 grades of wet and dry (240, 400, 600 grit)
tape or glue
Thats it mate (see first post)
Red
Three flat bits of "stuff" (wood, tiles whatever)
3 grades of wet and dry (240, 400, 600 grit)
tape or glue
Thats it mate (see first post)
Red
Genious. Im gunnu have to give that a try! does it ruin the belt? haha I only have one leather one and I wear it alot! Guess I can just get a cheap one.
Cheers, Bunn :You_Rock_
Cheers, Bunn :You_Rock_
C
Clavius
Guest
R
rubhadubh
Guest
Hi, the photos have dropped off your first post, Red. Is there any chance of re-instating them?
Also, could someone post the product codes for recommended grades of paper at the abrasivesplus.com website? I'm looking and not seeing - cheers.
Also, could someone post the product codes for recommended grades of paper at the abrasivesplus.com website? I'm looking and not seeing - cheers.
B
bushyboo
Guest
Excellent thead Red
Got myself some wet and dry today going to put it on boards tomorrow and give it a try.
Been using a bladetec and leather strop which was giving me a good edge on my mora ,enough to shave hair from my arm but i know it could be sharper hopefully this should do the the trick
Got myself some wet and dry today going to put it on boards tomorrow and give it a try.
Been using a bladetec and leather strop which was giving me a good edge on my mora ,enough to shave hair from my arm but i know it could be sharper hopefully this should do the the trick
I've dug out the old images and will re-host the early ones soon guys promise !
Between doing new pictures on axe sharpening for heath, the F1 auction and Bucksaw thread, being mad busy at work and so on its all a bit mad right now!
Red
Between doing new pictures on axe sharpening for heath, the F1 auction and Bucksaw thread, being mad busy at work and so on its all a bit mad right now!
Red
well apart from getting confused on which grind to put on a knife im making and thinking of following OldJimbos (from his web) advice on sharpening my large Kukri 
(if i do actually have a chance of achiving that )
do any here use a fixed polishing mop for final finishing they resharpen stanly blades a treat
Obviously not under £5 and not portable into the bush
anybody put a convex on a woodlore
how about a Scandi-Convex
(if i do actually have a chance of achiving that )do any here use a fixed polishing mop for final finishing they resharpen stanly blades a treat
Obviously not under £5 and not portable into the bush
anybody put a convex on a woodlore
how about a Scandi-Convex
All pictures now re-hosted on original post
Post #51 describes how to do a scandi convex (yuk)
Red
Post #51 describes how to do a scandi convex (yuk)
Red
B
bushyboo
Guest
B
bushyboo
Guest
Hi
sharpened my mora and it is sharp
problem is my brother saw it and now i have to do his lol
bye the way instead of using rubber on the back i used blue tack worked a treat
sharpened my mora and it is sharp
problem is my brother saw it and now i have to do his lol
bye the way instead of using rubber on the back i used blue tack worked a treat
British Red said:All pictures now re-hosted on original post
Post #51 describes how to do a scandi convex (yuk)
Red
Im makeing a woodlore to see what its like ( cant afford to waste £200-£400 or months on a waiting list ) and never had a Scandi grind either before so i will stick to the original design which is only fair (4mm thick jeez )ATB
Duncan
All of this is brilliant, I bought a survival knife from Springfields in Burton for around £12-£15 i think, (although i might invest in a nice Frost Mara knife if they are only around £10). But I was sharpening my survival knife all wrong, this has been really informative, I have managed to borrow my dad's diamond edged knife sharpening and honing set, with 3 pieces which look like this:
I was sharpening for about half an hour and it just didn't feel like it was getting any sharper, so I'm gonna try again on saturday using the proper technique basically I was pulling not pushing, so I would have been creating the burr on the knife edge.
Wolves.
I was sharpening for about half an hour and it just didn't feel like it was getting any sharper, so I'm gonna try again on saturday using the proper technique
basically I was pulling not pushing, so I would have been creating the burr on the knife edge.Wolves.
British Red said:
Hmmm, I do it exactly the opposite. In fact, I count on the burr forming because it lets me know when I've taken one side all the way down to the edge. As you move up to finer and finer grits, the burr becomes so thin it's easily remove by super fine grit and/or stropping.
Also, trying to move the edge forward when convexing on a mousepad backed sharpener doesn't work very well.
When I use the five pound sharpening kit (that's almost 12 bucks Canadian by the way) I also pull and not push. If I can't feel the wire edge, it's difficult to tell how sharp the blade is.
But as you said Red, to each their own.
Adam
But as you said Red, to each their own.
Adam
