Falkniven f1 with scandi grind
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Ash,
I want this so much I will give you my F1 to experiment on and if it doesn't work - my bad luck! It even had both dangler and pouch sheath so you could work on re-fitting it to existing leatherwork
The F1 is so close to a good knife ruined with a rubbish handle and the wrong grind! Seriously, PM me if you want one to work on!
Red
I want this so much I will give you my F1 to experiment on and if it doesn't work - my bad luck! It even had both dangler and pouch sheath so you could work on re-fitting it to existing leatherwork
The F1 is so close to a good knife ruined with a rubbish handle and the wrong grind! Seriously, PM me if you want one to work on!
Red
Just one question.... Why?????? Putting a scandi on it will ruin it! turning it into a poor imitation of a woodlore. You cant beat a proper convex edge. ( shame the F1 ISNT a proper convex edge but there you go) By all means reprofile it but leave it as a convex. Just thin out those shoulders so it cuts properly. The convex should be a shallow curve from spine to edge with no sudden transition as the F1 has. This is just my opinion BTW and no offense is meant in any way
Putting a scandi on it will ruin it! turning it into a poor imitation of a woodlore. You cant beat a proper convex edge. ( shame the F1 ISNT a proper convex edge but there you go) By all means reprofile it but leave it as a convex. Just thin out those shoulders so it cuts properly. The convex should be a shallow curve from spine to edge with no sudden transition as the F1 has. This is just my opinion BTW and no offense is meant in any way
Bardster,
Because the F1 has a rubbish grind???
I've tried a number of "factory" convex grinds - and the only thing worse than a Falkniven was a Bark River. Personally I simply don't buy the whole convex thing - and I have had the argument personally with Mike Stewart of BRKT and I still don't buy the logic, principle or execution of rounding off the grind of a single bevel grind. Thats all a convex is - effectively a graduated secondary bevel - logically according to the physics, it simply cannot profer mechanical advantage over a single bevel grind (Scandy or full flat) unless the angle of that grind is so acute as to make the edge fragile.
Just my opinion and no offense of course
Red
Because the F1 has a rubbish grind???
I've tried a number of "factory" convex grinds - and the only thing worse than a Falkniven was a Bark River. Personally I simply don't buy the whole convex thing - and I have had the argument personally with Mike Stewart of BRKT and I still don't buy the logic, principle or execution of rounding off the grind of a single bevel grind. Thats all a convex is - effectively a graduated secondary bevel - logically according to the physics, it simply cannot profer mechanical advantage over a single bevel grind (Scandy or full flat) unless the angle of that grind is so acute as to make the edge fragile.
Just my opinion and no offense of course
Red
I think I would second that approach too. If the F1 had an edge like some of the BRKT knives then I would be one very happy chappie.Bardster said:Just one question.... Why??????
Nice wooden handle? Maybe nice though.
Physics and geometry aside, the BRKT knives and good convex blades seem to hold up well compared to scandis from my experience with both, although I guess different steels etc may account for it. I don't have a scandi now, but do like some flat grinds.British Red said:Bardster,
Because the F1 has a rubbish grind???
I've tried a number of "factory" convex grinds - and the only thing worse than a Falkniven was a Bark River. Personally I simply don't buy the whole convex thing - and I have had the argument personally with Mike Stewart of BRKT and I still don't buy the logic, principle or execution of rounding off the grind of a single bevel grind. Thats all a convex is - effectively a graduated secondary bevel - logically according to the physics, it simply cannot profer mechanical advantage over a single bevel grind (Scandy or full flat) unless the angle of that grind is so acute as to make the edge fragile.
Just my opinion and no offense of course
Red
Beachlover,
We really have to try this out - in my view its simply a myth! Bogdan is making me one last convex (purpose designed), I have tried, and been disappointed with Falkniven and BRKT grinds. Now I suspect the F1 is due to the silly thick 5mm spine - cant account for the BRKT other than "it's simply poor design". Wait till he's made it and we'll do some comparative tests over a litre of mead in the spring!
Red
We really have to try this out - in my view its simply a myth! Bogdan is making me one last convex (purpose designed), I have tried, and been disappointed with Falkniven and BRKT grinds. Now I suspect the F1 is due to the silly thick 5mm spine - cant account for the BRKT other than "it's simply poor design". Wait till he's made it and we'll do some comparative tests over a litre of mead in the spring!
Red
Red,British Red said:
That sounds like a pretty good deal, but how would we remember the outcome and would it even matter by then??
Seriously tho', sounds a good idea.
Okay - thats a deal mate - I'll throw in a tour of Corhampton church (the nicest 1,000 year old church for several miles around )
Red
)Red
Works for meBritish Red said:Okay - thats a deal mate - I'll throw in a tour of Corhampton church (the nicest 1,000 year old church for several miles around
Red
British Red said:Bardster,
Because the F1 has a rubbish grind???
I've tried a number of "factory" convex grinds - and the only thing worse than a Falkniven was a Bark River. Personally I simply don't buy the whole convex thing - and I have had the argument personally with Mike Stewart of BRKT and I still don't buy the logic, principle or execution of rounding off the grind of a single bevel grind. Thats all a convex is - effectively a graduated secondary bevel - logically according to the physics, it simply cannot profer mechanical advantage over a single bevel grind (Scandy or full flat) unless the angle of that grind is so acute as to make the edge fragile.
Just my opinion and no offense of course
Red
as the man says - it would be a boring world if we all held the same opinion I am not expert enough (at all!) to argue with you, just know what seems to work for me.
Well i had thought of thining the convex, but i have tried all the grinds and for me scandi works the best. Especially when working with wood, and for me woodcraft is a big part of bushcraft.
Mr Red,
I would quite happilly modify your F1, but at the moment i am bogged down with work. This F1 is a lil project i wanna try early next year. I am just gageing interest so that when i have a play i dont have to keep 3 or 4 knives
and i think the f1 would be exellent with scandi grind. With a 5mm thick blade i will have to start the grind quite high, i have a chart somewhere that i will have to dig out.
I wish I could see it having a good possibility of working, but I believe that the taper on the flat grind is too much. A scandied edge would have to be pretty acute. That might serve some, but wouldn't be robust enough for most - especially at the tip.
The F1 is designed as a pilot's knife, and that's what it's optimized for. Yep specifications called for a straight back on handle and steep convex, too. Now some things can be changed such as putting on a less steep convex, and maybe that will satisfy with little expense. Other modifications such as putting on a longer wooden handle are certainly possible too - but then the exposed tang end won't be exposed any more and some of the utility of the knife will be lost, because pounding it point first into wood won't be possible. I believe most modifications would end up with more of a tradeoff than you'd want.
The F1 is designed as a pilot's knife, and that's what it's optimized for. Yep specifications called for a straight back on handle and steep convex, too. Now some things can be changed such as putting on a less steep convex, and maybe that will satisfy with little expense. Other modifications such as putting on a longer wooden handle are certainly possible too - but then the exposed tang end won't be exposed any more and some of the utility of the knife will be lost, because pounding it point first into wood won't be possible. I believe most modifications would end up with more of a tradeoff than you'd want.
What is the cutting of the Woodlore type knives like compared to a similar Helle?
I have a couple of Helle, I toyed with the idea of getting a full tang Woodlore style knife, but for me, the convex of my F1 or Highland Special out perform anything else I have tried.
I have a couple of Helle, I toyed with the idea of getting a full tang Woodlore style knife, but for me, the convex of my F1 or Highland Special out perform anything else I have tried.
I recently converted my helle futura knife to a flat grind (loathed to say woodlore style ) Its much easier to get shaving sharp and seems to have more of a bite for fibre type of materials like wood and meat I can see the bevel grind lasting longer but its a real pia to get right
Thats my none expert opinion anyways
) Its much easier to get shaving sharp and seems to have more of a bite for fibre type of materials like wood and meat I can see the bevel grind lasting longer but its a real pia to get right Thats my none expert opinion anyways
I recently bought an f1 and am getting on with it better and better, it is just so solid. I have yet to sharpen it, but don't see that as a problem. It certainly seems to hold its edge well. I voted leave it be.....
For sure we learn from experimenting and trying - and I've been trying that for a few years now! What I'm trying to point out is to look at all the factors. I've scandied both my H1 and A1 and now they work as well as knives that width and thickness could. What I really found out after a lot of honing is that I prefer thinner, narrower - and really lighter - blades anyway. At least for the knife I use all the time. I like to carry the knife in a sheath slung around my neck where the knife is handy to get at, and prefer a narrow blade for small jobs. I could probably have figured that out before I started if I'd have taken time... So all I'm saying is that you can get a final result that's pretty good - but still not what was really wanted.
Sometimes I use big blades for fine work because I'm using a golok or hatchet/axe lots for other stuff. I can make those work fine too, despite often being huge and convexed - or at least I can make them work fine for lots. Trouble is that's when I find out how much I use a knife, and that unsheathing a sword like thing every few minutes is a pain in the you know where. And they can't do finer work such as whittling a fork.
I haven't really lost anything with the work of honing an H1 because one day I'll need a blade that can butcher a moose as well as do some woodwork - it's simply that it's not my blade for everyday use now.
Sometimes I use big blades for fine work because I'm using a golok or hatchet/axe lots for other stuff. I can make those work fine too, despite often being huge and convexed - or at least I can make them work fine for lots. Trouble is that's when I find out how much I use a knife, and that unsheathing a sword like thing every few minutes is a pain in the you know where. And they can't do finer work such as whittling a fork.
I haven't really lost anything with the work of honing an H1 because one day I'll need a blade that can butcher a moose as well as do some woodwork - it's simply that it's not my blade for everyday use now.
