EKA Nordic W11 knife
- Thread starter Salix
- Start date
I owned one for a few days. I have also owned the small H8 knife by EKA
The handles looked like they wouldn't be big enough but somehow they were. They are infact very comfy to use and give a very good grip (I used the H8 but not the W11). Both the H8 and W11 had handles which are a fair bit wider then that of the F1 (which a lot of people think it a bit too thin). They have straight sides and there is no drop behind the little finger so it's rather difficult to use a chopping action with them though.The blade had a deeper hollow grind and bigger secondary bevel then I was expexting and I know that I don't get on too well with that blade profile. It was a well ground edge with bevels being even on both sides and the edge bevel being tidy (I find that some companies seem to have difficulty keeping a even edge bevel round the belly of the blade). I think most people convex the edge with this knife. They were both well made knives and had good quality leather sheaths with them. The blade seemed to be a lot bigger then the F1 even though it's only 1cm bigger. The point is a little lower so point control should be a little better then a F1 while you get a similar amount of cutting edge.
I got mine on ebay in the US but the seller will slightly undercut his ebay buy it bow price if you go direct to his website. His name was hillbilly sales and he was a pleasure to deal with. $72 (£42 at the time)will get you one from the US and that includes postage. I was hit for £8.25 import taxes IIRC.
Hope this helps
Andy
The handles looked like they wouldn't be big enough but somehow they were. They are infact very comfy to use and give a very good grip (I used the H8 but not the W11). Both the H8 and W11 had handles which are a fair bit wider then that of the F1 (which a lot of people think it a bit too thin). They have straight sides and there is no drop behind the little finger so it's rather difficult to use a chopping action with them though.The blade had a deeper hollow grind and bigger secondary bevel then I was expexting and I know that I don't get on too well with that blade profile. It was a well ground edge with bevels being even on both sides and the edge bevel being tidy (I find that some companies seem to have difficulty keeping a even edge bevel round the belly of the blade). I think most people convex the edge with this knife. They were both well made knives and had good quality leather sheaths with them. The blade seemed to be a lot bigger then the F1 even though it's only 1cm bigger. The point is a little lower so point control should be a little better then a F1 while you get a similar amount of cutting edge.
I got mine on ebay in the US but the seller will slightly undercut his ebay buy it bow price if you go direct to his website. His name was hillbilly sales and he was a pleasure to deal with. $72 (£42 at the time)will get you one from the US and that includes postage. I was hit for £8.25 import taxes IIRC.
Hope this helps
Andy
there's are review of that exact knife here
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_topic.php?id_rubrique=22
personally i'm going to stick to mora's for a while.
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_topic.php?id_rubrique=22
personally i'm going to stick to mora's for a while.
You can get the W11 from Heinnie Haynes(www.heinnie.com)
click EKA then click Nordic £67.95.
They've a good selection of most knives and they've always
been reliable when I've used them.
click EKA then click Nordic £67.95.
They've a good selection of most knives and they've always
been reliable when I've used them.
Andy said:
How would you go about convexing the edge of one of these ?
I.ve just bought one and haven't got much of an idea how iwould go about sharping it in the field.
cheers
Convex edges? Two words, two fantastic words that are the most amazing words in the entire english language: HOODOO HONE!
Adam
Adam
Gis a clue then as I'm a complete novice to this game, what are they and where do i get one ?
cheers.
cheers.
I am new to this game so stop me if I am wrong. I have an Eka Nordic W11 knife which I bought after much deliberation and reading of reviews for my arguably most important tool of bushcraft.
This weekend though I have been putting it though its paces. It was so good at splitting wood I could not believe. Whittling on the other hand is another matter, I was struggling to carve a firestarting drill from a piece of sycamore for about half an hour thinking god this stuff is hard to work. Then my mate comes along and says just try my knife (a Frosts Mora bought for £8) and it goes through like a hot knife though butter!
I think it must be the bevel angle. It has a primary concaved bevel and what seems to be quite a wide secondary bevel. I have heard of people reworking the blade to give it an edge like a puukko. The blade uses 12C27 Sandvik steel and I have course oil stones and an as yet unused 1000/6000 waterstone. Any advice on what grind to use and how to regrind this knife would be much appreciated.
Cheers, Will
This weekend though I have been putting it though its paces. It was so good at splitting wood I could not believe. Whittling on the other hand is another matter, I was struggling to carve a firestarting drill from a piece of sycamore for about half an hour thinking god this stuff is hard to work. Then my mate comes along and says just try my knife (a Frosts Mora bought for £8) and it goes through like a hot knife though butter!
I think it must be the bevel angle. It has a primary concaved bevel and what seems to be quite a wide secondary bevel. I have heard of people reworking the blade to give it an edge like a puukko. The blade uses 12C27 Sandvik steel and I have course oil stones and an as yet unused 1000/6000 waterstone. Any advice on what grind to use and how to regrind this knife would be much appreciated.
Cheers, Will
Will,
I've got a Mora Clipper in 12c27 Sandvik myself. It happens to be the first fixed blade that I've ever bought, and I definately made the right choice. Technically, it's a Scandi grind which correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't have a secondary bevel.
My preferred way of sharpening it is this, which gives it a slight convex grind and works extremely well for me:
1) Take a mousepad and rip the thin backing off of it
2) Take some wet/dry sandpaper, and cut it to fit the mousepad. I use 220 grit and a 340. You'll also need a leather belt and some buffing compound for stropping. Or a piece of cardboard.
3) Tack the sandpaper to your mousepad, and lay the knife onto it, bevel down. Then drag it away from you, as many times as it takes before you feel a wire edge. Repeat on the other side until you feel the wire edge on the other side.
4) Then you can move onto the fine grit sandpaper and repeat the process. It's a good time to listen to some music or make fun of Ray Mears.
5) Take your leather belt or strop or cardboard or whatever you have and rub some buffing compound onto it. Not too much, just a little bit. Now strop your blade. You'll know the stropping's working when the buffing compound starts to turn black. This removes the wire edge and polishes the bevel.
6) Rinse the blade off and then go have a shave. Welcome to "Scary Sharp!"
Adam
I've got a Mora Clipper in 12c27 Sandvik myself. It happens to be the first fixed blade that I've ever bought, and I definately made the right choice. Technically, it's a Scandi grind which correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't have a secondary bevel.
My preferred way of sharpening it is this, which gives it a slight convex grind and works extremely well for me:
1) Take a mousepad and rip the thin backing off of it
2) Take some wet/dry sandpaper, and cut it to fit the mousepad. I use 220 grit and a 340. You'll also need a leather belt and some buffing compound for stropping. Or a piece of cardboard.
3) Tack the sandpaper to your mousepad, and lay the knife onto it, bevel down. Then drag it away from you, as many times as it takes before you feel a wire edge. Repeat on the other side until you feel the wire edge on the other side.
4) Then you can move onto the fine grit sandpaper and repeat the process. It's a good time to listen to some music or make fun of Ray Mears.
5) Take your leather belt or strop or cardboard or whatever you have and rub some buffing compound onto it. Not too much, just a little bit. Now strop your blade. You'll know the stropping's working when the buffing compound starts to turn black. This removes the wire edge and polishes the bevel.
6) Rinse the blade off and then go have a shave. Welcome to "Scary Sharp!"
Adam
Hi Adam
Cheers, i have heard of using this hoodoo hone to get a convex edge which holds a keen edge well and is strong, this is very appealing but i am sure that my Eka Nordic W11 has a hollow grind or concave main bevel and i don't think i could use this method without firstly flattening off this main bevel
please help
Cheers, i have heard of using this hoodoo hone to get a convex edge which holds a keen edge well and is strong, this is very appealing but i am sure that my Eka Nordic W11 has a hollow grind or concave main bevel and i don't think i could use this method without firstly flattening off this main bevel
please help
Will,
Actually, I think you probably could slightly convex your EKA with a hoodoo one, it'll just take a bit more time and energy.
Alternately you could just take it to an oilstone and work the entire length of the bevel. This would involve taking off quite a lot of metal, but I'm sure the end result would be most satisfying. http://www.canit.se/~griffon/knives/eka/eka_nordic_w11.html If that is your knife, then it's a flat grind, and not concave. It shouldn't be too difficult to convex it.
Good luck!
Adam
Actually, I think you probably could slightly convex your EKA with a hoodoo one, it'll just take a bit more time and energy.
Alternately you could just take it to an oilstone and work the entire length of the bevel. This would involve taking off quite a lot of metal, but I'm sure the end result would be most satisfying. http://www.canit.se/~griffon/knives/eka/eka_nordic_w11.html If that is your knife, then it's a flat grind, and not concave. It shouldn't be too difficult to convex it.
Good luck!
Adam
Does the H8 have a different grind to the W11 then?
I have the H8 and it's the sharpest and easiest to sharpen of all my knives on a hoodoo hone.
I have the H8 and it's the sharpest and easiest to sharpen of all my knives on a hoodoo hone.
The H8 has a flat grind starting at the spine with a secondary bevel. the W11 has a hollow ground bevel that starts about 2/3up the blades depth with a secondary bevel
Well if the W11 is hollow ground with a secondary bevel, then it shouldn't be too difficult to convex the cutting edge and not the entire blade. Or would that not at all be suitable?
Adam
Adam
I think that's what most people do. I just decided that I prefer the shorter blade of the F1 so sold it on
cheers guys
i will try to convex he edge with the old Hoodoo when i manage to find a mouse mat! i have had a look at the knife now I'm home and i would have to take off a hell of a lot of metal to give it a flat bevel because it is so concave at the moment. loks like i could probably make a convex edge easy enough. Keep you posted on the results, may even take some photos for all of you who doubt the concve bevel!
peace, Will
i will try to convex he edge with the old Hoodoo when i manage to find a mouse mat! i have had a look at the knife now I'm home and i would have to take off a hell of a lot of metal to give it a flat bevel because it is so concave at the moment. loks like i could probably make a convex edge easy enough. Keep you posted on the results, may even take some photos for all of you who doubt the concve bevel!
peace, Will
iamwill said:cheers guys
i will try to convex he edge with the old Hoodoo when i manage to find a mouse mat! i have had a look at the knife now I'm home and i would have to take off a hell of a lot of metal to give it a flat bevel because it is so concave at the moment. loks like i could probably make a convex edge easy enough. Keep you posted on the results, may even take some photos for all of you who doubt the concve bevel!
peace, Will
I'm at the same stage as you.
And have found the same answers on various forums, have made my hoodoo and practiced on old kitchen knives.
The Q now is where and what grit wet and dry should i use and where to get it?
Then I will take the plunge and go to work on my new knife.....
I use a 200 to start off, and finish up with a 340 because I ran out of 400 grit. And then after I just use a bare mousepad sans paper for a final polish. It works wonderfully on SAK's as well!
Adam
Adam
Similar threads
