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£250 survival knife...
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Got my M4 in Maganacut convexed, just back from Longstrider. Lionsteel give you a lot of knife for the money, and they know how to make and design them.
Before.
After.
Please explain. How is pointing at a Rokka in N690 related to Benchmade discontinuation of their Puukko 200 or remaining stock of their Leuku 202 at Heinnie?Search | Lamnia
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If you are suggesting the Rokka to Mugen, you should reply to one of his posts rather than mine. Given the steels under discussion, how do you find N690 compares?
The way I think it is irrelevant who said but relevant what is said.
Therefore the "Puukko was discontinued....buuuutttt...." was perfect for letting know there is a similar puukko to the Benchmade one.
Perhaps my way of thinking is a bit abstract...?
Therefore the "Puukko was discontinued....buuuutttt...." was perfect for letting know there is a similar puukko to the Benchmade one.
Perhaps my way of thinking is a bit abstract...?
You call it abstract, I call it unclear. I was certainly puzzled.
Bare link bombing is rarely good communication, but doing so as a Reply to a specific person implies you are addressing that particular person. That is how other people will read it. Its like turning to face someone, giving eye contact and using their name when speaking.
It would have been clearer if you had posted your link without a Reply and added some words suggesting the OP look at the Rokka as an alternative to the BM 200.
Still, in your experience how does N690 compare to 3V, Elmax or Magnacut? This thread is interesting because the OP has listed three very different shape knives, based upon the steels they are available in. This is in contrast to what we often see where someone is looking for a style of knife and the steel is secondary at most. The Rokka might be a puukko, like the BM 200, but the OP's looking at the F1X shows it isn't the puukko style particularly that is of interest. I am not really familiar with N690, just what I have read that it is similar to VG10, which is okay, but maybe not in the same crowd as 3V and Elmax.
@C_Claycomb you are spot on with your assessment - I don’t have experience and therefore don’t know/understand what I want.
I may go m4 magnacut and skrama combo.
I may go m4 magnacut and skrama combo.
I don’t give a hoot about steel as long as it does its job. I’m quite used to giving the blade a swipe with a puck a couple of times per job. It’s what we have always had to do. It’s a very long time since I used a knife continuously for an hour never mind my working day.
I'd never have the confidence to say that e.g. my fixed blade in Elmax blunted before my Spyderco Military in CPM S30V because of the different steels.
It's far more likely that it's because I cut something different, or accidentally touched the edge on another knife, or sharpened one a bit rubbishly compared to the other but didn't notice before then.
It would take me a lot of instances of the same result, cutting the same things with the same knives, before I'd then maybe think that perhaps the factory did a bit of botched heat treat, or overheated the edge when grinding it. Very last thing would be me thinking it's the properties of Elmax vs. CPM S30V, but that's just the kind of steel philistine that I am (yet I will definitely take the steel heavily into consideration when buying..!)
It's far more likely that it's because I cut something different, or accidentally touched the edge on another knife, or sharpened one a bit rubbishly compared to the other but didn't notice before then.
It would take me a lot of instances of the same result, cutting the same things with the same knives, before I'd then maybe think that perhaps the factory did a bit of botched heat treat, or overheated the edge when grinding it. Very last thing would be me thinking it's the properties of Elmax vs. CPM S30V, but that's just the kind of steel philistine that I am (yet I will definitely take the steel heavily into consideration when buying..!)
Longstrider still supplies plasters with every sharpened blade then
Chatting with Ian about usage and I said it was likely to get pummelled through things not far off the length of the blade at times, he went for strength behind the edge.
I can see the attraction of that higher grind, but on the other hand I took out a fingernail sized chunk of blade on a BRKT Canadian a few years ago. I just heard a little click while batoning and thought “oh, that didn’t sound good”.
Yes....but that WAS a Bark River
Will be interested to hear how you get on with the M4. I like mine, even if it is thicker at the spine than I usually prefer. This higher grind was the second iteration. Meanwhile on my AEBL custom, I ground 0.75mm off the blade height at the edge in order to steepen and thicken the edge to get it to curl wood better.
Mostly for @Mugen's benefit, if you read much on Bladeforums and the general knife, and hunting forums you will see lots of authoritative recommendations to have a thin edge with a 20dps edge angle. For wood carving that angle doesn't bite, and there is a point of thinness where wood doesn't curl unless very thinly shaved. It is interesting trying to find the optimum.
Nathan Carothers does simply awesome work. It is hard to get one of his blades because so many people want them. For a one and done knife, CPK is the way to go. Not sure how hard it would be to get on into the UK these days and at what cost.
With your budget, I would say two better options for those tasks is better than one that does neither as well.
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Personally, I would take my money and buy a good ~60£ axe from Hultafor and I would use the rest on a Casstrom No 10 as I think it is the best all rounder for general carving and meal prep or any number of other uses. The Rokka is awesome but, I'm not sure how I would personally carve a spoon with one though, it is another really great choice.
There is certainly an excellent arguement, when one is new to all this and still figuring out what you want, like and need, to taking a big sum of money and splitting it to get a couple of slightly different knives so that one can compare.
Or at least, I think that sounds like a good justification for buying more than one!
Or at least, I think that sounds like a good justification for buying more than one!
It’s taken me many years to find contentment with the knives that I own. I do not think that I’m alone.
Why not buy something really cheap, like a Mora and an £8 hatchet.
Use them for six months (OK-4 months) and keep a list of all the things that they won’t do that you want to do. List all your frustrations and issues while at the same time, practice sharpening and knife skills on tools that you can afford to damage.
Then look for a tool (or two tools) that will fill the gaps and give you pleasure to own at your budget.
Form follows function.
Why not buy something really cheap, like a Mora and an £8 hatchet.
Use them for six months (OK-4 months
) and keep a list of all the things that they won’t do that you want to do. List all your frustrations and issues while at the same time, practice sharpening and knife skills on tools that you can afford to damage.Then look for a tool (or two tools) that will fill the gaps and give you pleasure to own at your budget.
Form follows function.
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There is certainly an excellent arguement, when one is new to all this and still figuring out what you want, like and need, to taking a big sum of money and splitting it to get a couple of slightly different knives so that one can compare.
Or at least, I think that sounds like a good justification for buying more than one!
ABSOLUTELY! Pretty common for new flashlight geeks on another forum I participate in. How do they know if they like warm, neutral, or cool emitters? Are, flood versus throw and how much of each?
Turns out, my friend really needed high CRI for color accuracy above all else. The UV flashlight with ZBW2 filter also works much better on his fly-tying adhesive!
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