Comments on making my first knife sheath

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pentrekeeper

Forager
Apr 7, 2008
140
0
North Wales
Having read the excellent tutorial in this forum I was fired up to have a go, ordered all the necessary stuff from Le Prevo and eagerly awaited delivery. Came on Tuesday so Wednesday set about following the tutorial.
Here's a few words about my experience, the knife I made the sheath for is a Frosts Clipper.

1) The template for the sheath, trial and error using paper, well I must have had six or seven goes at this until I had a shape that I was satisfied with.the problem was that the knife has a drop point and a curvy handle, so at what point do you rotate it from side to side to draw around it. There are several possibilities here, if you do it from the point then the sheath looked to be too wide at the mouth. If you do it from the middle of the handle the point of the knife appears to be too far from the centre line of the sheath.

2) Allowance for leather thickness ? again I just guessed on the shape of the template cut it out and wrapped it around the knife and repeated this process until I could see that there would be enough material to stitch.

3) Having allowed sufficient but variable distances between the blade and edge of template and handle and edge of template what width to make the welt ? Again just guessed at about half an inch.

4) Cut the shapes out using the frosts, only comment is that leather is nice material to work. Made several passes with knife until material cut all the way through.

5) Use of non adjustable stitch groover, what a nightmare:( , me and this tool have a hate relationship. It has a tiny hole adjacent to the cutting edge and every time I tried to cut a groove the leather cut would jam up this little hole resulting in me having a leather scraper not cutting a groove. I had to keep stopping to clear this little hole with the cutting awl. If any experienced leatherworker would be kind enough to pass on some tips on how to use this little bugger that would be great.

6) Overstitch wheel was OK but when I used it in the groove cut out by the adjustable edge groover (which I liked using) it did not mark the bottom of ther groove very well, so had to highlight the marks with the cutting awl prior to drilling.

7) Drilling the holes and stitching I seemed to cope with, also the dying and polishing seeemed fairly straight forward.

So what does the end result look like, not perfect by any means but good enough for me, it holds the knife very firmly.

sheath.jpg


Any tips and help on making templates, and how to use that damn fixed stitch groover would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,:)
 

JonnyP

Full Member
Oct 17, 2005
3,833
29
Cornwall...
That looks sweet as.... I have still to make my first sheath; I made the knife a while ago and need to get the sheath done. I have no special leather tools, so its going to be interesting...
 

SOAR

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 21, 2007
2,031
8
48
cheshire
Nice sheath fella, love the shape, I think you have done a top job on it for your first one, the colour is good and very even and the stitching looks good too.
Never really had a problem with the groover myself, what I do is not press down too hard on the first pass and when I am happy with the mark, I go over it again pressing slightly harder until I get the required depth, when done corectly you get nice thin coils of leather.
Good luck with it and keep at it.
 

Buckshot

Mod
Mod
Jan 19, 2004
6,466
349
Oxford
You may find it works better going one way more than the other.
And I also find it clogs if I don't press hard - which sounds completely different to SOAR!

Use a piece of scrap to find the best technique for you.

Mark
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,137
2,876
66
Pembrokeshire
I do not use a groover to get my grooves...I wet the leather as for wet moulding and deeply indent the groove with the tines if an old fork.
I have a selection of forks (from Air France - bless em)with four tines and I have adapted these to give various spacings, double grooves etc but always with one tine bent down to guide the tool along the edge of the leather for constant spacing from the edge.
I find that this has a couple of advantages - 1/ - the leather is not weakened, staying whole but compressed rather than cut. 2/ - Any mistake is not permanent! Simply rewet the leather (if needs be) "polish" out the error with the bowl of a teaspoon and re-emboss the line in the right place. 3/ - Spoons and forks nicked from airlines (or bought in charity shops...) are cheaper than purpose bought groovers!
Spoons also make great burnishers.
Kitchen table leatherwork!;)
 

pentrekeeper

Forager
Apr 7, 2008
140
0
North Wales
Brilliant, thanks for the tips, the problem with the groover appears to be on the rough side of the leather it picks up the rough bits which jam the little hole. I need more practice I think. Good idea with the fork will try that.
Can't claim any credit for shape of sheath I got that from a tutorial over on british blades.
http://www.britishblades.com/home/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=42
Lastly come on JonnyP I though I was tight download their catalogue you will get a pleasant surprise on the cost of tools it's the leather thats expensive.
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/
Again thanks for the tips guys, true forum spirit.
 

Rosco

Tenderfoot
Jan 3, 2008
94
0
west yorkshire
Excellent work! especially for a first project. I wouldn,t mind having a go myself, what's the recommended set of leathercraft tools for a beginner?
John
 

pentrekeeper

Forager
Apr 7, 2008
140
0
North Wales
Excellent work! especially for a first project. I wouldn,t mind having a go myself, what's the recommended set of leathercraft tools for a beginner?
John

Far be it for me to advise on this as you know this is my first go at it but I can show you what I have.
leathertools.jpg

From left to right
Overstitch wheel size 6 (£4.30)
Edge beveller no.2 (£4.22)
Stitch groover (adjustable) (£5.80)
Stitch groover non adjustable small (£4.72)
Sewing awl handle & blade (£0.64 + £1.88)
Saddlers needles size 2 packet of 25 (£1.00)
50g Linen thread 18/3 brown (3.28)
Beeswax (already had from fly tying kit)
And for staining and polishing
leatherfinish.jpg

Carnuba cream 4oz (£1,98)
Pro Oil dye black (£3.48)
Pro Oil dye dark brown (£3.69)

On top of this you will need knife to cut leather, cotton wool or similar to apply dye, 1.5mm drill to drill stitch holes prior to stitching, cotton rags to apply and buff polish, and paper or card and pencil to make the template, oh and a biro to mark the leather.
Oh not forgetting the leather for sheaths veg tan 3.5mm thick (expensive when you have to buy a complete shoulder !)
Above prices do not include VAT.
Hope this helps, I found the above kit admirably suitable.:)
 

rancid badger

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Having read the excellent tutorial in this forum I was fired up to have a go, ordered all the necessary stuff from Le Prevo and eagerly awaited delivery. Came on Tuesday so Wednesday set about following the tutorial.
Here's a few words about my experience, the knife I made the sheath for is a Frosts Clipper.

1) The template for the sheath, trial and error using paper, well I must have had six or seven goes at this until I had a shape that I was satisfied with.the problem was that the knife has a drop point and a curvy handle, so at what point do you rotate it from side to side to draw around it. There are several possibilities here, if you do it from the point then the sheath looked to be too wide at the mouth. If you do it from the middle of the handle the point of the knife appears to be too far from the centre line of the sheath.

2) Allowance for leather thickness ? again I just guessed on the shape of the template cut it out and wrapped it around the knife and repeated this process until I could see that there would be enough material to stitch.

3) Having allowed sufficient but variable distances between the blade and edge of template and handle and edge of template what width to make the welt ? Again just guessed at about half an inch.

4) Cut the shapes out using the frosts, only comment is that leather is nice material to work. Made several passes with knife until material cut all the way through.

5) Use of non adjustable stitch groover, what a nightmare:( , me and this tool have a hate relationship. It has a tiny hole adjacent to the cutting edge and every time I tried to cut a groove the leather cut would jam up this little hole resulting in me having a leather scraper not cutting a groove. I had to keep stopping to clear this little hole with the cutting awl. If any experienced leatherworker would be kind enough to pass on some tips on how to use this little bugger that would be great.

6) Overstitch wheel was OK but when I used it in the groove cut out by the adjustable edge groover (which I liked using) it did not mark the bottom of ther groove very well, so had to highlight the marks with the cutting awl prior to drilling.

7) Drilling the holes and stitching I seemed to cope with, also the dying and polishing seeemed fairly straight forward.

So what does the end result look like, not perfect by any means but good enough for me, it holds the knife very firmly.

sheath.jpg


Any tips and help on making templates, and how to use that damn fixed stitch groover would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,:)

Best to use the fixed stitch groover with a ruler but it shouldn't be blocking up like that:bluThinki try altering the angle as you cut ( on a piece of scrap) if this doesn't improve things you may have a duffer-it could have a burr inside the hole or something like that. or..... well you can try using it to carve decoration onto leather. I've done this quite a lot but it takes a lot of practice. It tends to "run off" at the end of the groove but it comes into it's own when you need to groove something you can't reach with the adjustable groover.

R.B.
 

pentrekeeper

Forager
Apr 7, 2008
140
0
North Wales
Thanks for that RB I'm sure it is just lack of practice, the kit and leather arrived on Tuesday and Wednesday I made this, so it was my first go with the tools. Practice makes perfect as the saying goes, I'm sure I will get to terms with it - eventually !
 

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