Having done some soak tests on vulcanised fibre, I would say it adds a potential weak link. Not guaranteed, of course but still there.
Always use a liner? And other questions
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hi....yes ive seen the soak test on bb....but the fact is that oak does degrade steel. thus use a liner.
and yes my m8 lee works at the largest tool shop in the area....he drilled slowly....carefully and with oil. and both types of bit failed miserably. yet a £1-50 makita masonry bit did it in about 5-10 mins.
i'm confounded too dont worry. nuts eh?
a
and yes my m8 lee works at the largest tool shop in the area....he drilled slowly....carefully and with oil. and both types of bit failed miserably. yet a £1-50 makita masonry bit did it in about 5-10 mins.
i'm confounded too dont worry. nuts eh?
a
Yes, I agree with that to an extent on that one particular wood and any other woods rich in tannins, used on carbon steel blades. It would only be at the edges though of course because of the layer of glue between the wood and metal. I wonder what effect oiling the wood does to stop any reaction as well.
Oak isn't something I've used for many handles as it's generally quite a plain wood so not sure.. I do have a piece of oak burr in the kitchen but that's on a D2 blade so not a problem. I might have to give it a try on a carbon blade, just to see what happens.
What kind of time scale are we talking about for Oak handles without liners as the kitchen knife I did over four years ago that is used daily sits round in the dish occasionally but its doing fine with maybe a the scales lifting slightly.
I've got a set of Old Hickory knives in the kitchen that are over a quarter century old with no problems. But to be honest I don't know what wood they use for the handles.
hi...i really have no idea...but a few weeks ago i got a load of oak scales cut by a friend who's a heavy timber framer....what was interesting is that even though he knows nothing about knives/steel as such he did mention to me at the time about oak having high tannins and that that can be problematic with metal....then just a coupla days later hillbill put up a post saying the same thing which sealed the deal on that pretty much. its probably gonna be fine....especially with the layer of glue in there too....i dont think the scales will fall off a day later or the blade snap after a week because of it but if youre gonna shell out a few hundred quid on a topnotch lifetime user then you want it to be for life. the swc knife on mears website has oak scales...and for 350 quid i'd want liners in there.
lol....hillbill beating bushwacker bob to that one haha!
The name of the company may be a clue
The name of the company may be a clue
LOL. I thought about that but the name might also just be so much hype. Or a vague reference to Andrew Jackson.
After watching this blog. I thought I would put in my two cents. Liners are a water resistent layer between the wood and metal all wood has moisture in it. The amount depends upon finish and humidity. Drill bits very in quality and high speed steel is sharper than carbide steel bits. Carbide steel will stay sharper longer. To judge speed when drilling the offcut should ideally come off as a curling ribbon. Cutting oil will help by cooling the cutting edge and helping to remove the offcut light amounts of oil do little to help the more oil the better. If the steel is turning blue you are cutting to fast. Also the liner acts as a shock absorber and allows the wood to move a little so the glue stays put.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
That depends on how you sharpen your drill bits. You do sharpen your own, don't you?
Carbide due to its grain structure cannot be made as sharp as high speed steel. I only sharpen my woodworking drill bits.
Andrew Jackson? Can't see it being hype, but only because Hickory is your main tool handle wood isn't it? Like ash is ours.
Can't see it being hype, but only because Hickory is your main tool handle wood isn't it? Like ash is ours.
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Andrew Jackson?
Andrew Jackson was/is a popular figure and conjures an image of simple (no frills) and tough so even a vague reference would boost sales.
Hickory our main tool handle wood? No not really. It is for axe handles, yes, but not so much for other tools. Rosewood has been a favored knife handle material (preferably Brazilian rosewood) but it's definitely not what's on the Old Hickory knives. Walnut is also popular, on gunstocks and other tools.
I never had a problem getting them as sharp, just took more care to do so. We had to sharpen ALL our bits. Both because we went through so many (in the aviation industry) that they had to be resharpened often; and because every material we cut through (from plexiglass to stainless) required a different cutting angle.
If you epoxy oak scales to a fulltang knife the glue will soak into the wood sealing it and should stop any interaction between the tannins in the wood and the steel. They are only a problem if the wood is wet anyway. I don't make fulltang knives but have no concerns about gluing a stick tang into a tannin laden wood.
Hi Mike,
I am considering a SWC kit, will you be documenting your build?
I am going to have a go at making my own denim micarta scales.
some ideas for liners, I searched: Vulcanised Fibre Liner Material
http://www.thebushcraftstore.co.uk/...--pair---08mm1mm---various-colours-7096-p.asp
http://woodandknifesupply.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_9
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