Candle manufacture method effect on burning?

[Chris]

I was thinking about making some candles and was wondering: Is there a difference in how a dipped vs a moulded candle burns?

Do they burn equally cleanly, all other variables equal? Does one burn longer than the other?

 

[Tengu]

I think its the quality of wick, affects a burn,

Maybe you can experiment?

 

[John Fenna]

I think the type of wax is the main variant ...tallow, beeswax, paraffin, paraffin/beeswax blend - plus getting the size and type of wick material balanced to the diameter of the candle ...
I used to get a lot of wax from our church where the cheap but fat candles burned hollow with lots of wax left when the wick was totally consumed.
Lots of variable to consider but I had great success with dipped beeswax on parcel string wicks

 

[slowworm]

I doubt there will be any difference between dipped and moulded candles, if the size, wax and wick is the same. I've not compared them but I have compared different thicknesses of the same make of wick and that doesn't make any noticeable difference.

Make of wick does make a difference, I've just been trying another and it doesn't self trim as well or blow out as easily, so I'm not keen on it. The other factor is where you burn the candles, if they are in a draft they will not burn evenly and may spill wax down the side.

 

[TeeDee]

I was thinking about making some candles and was wondering: Is there a difference in how a dipped vs a moulded candle burns?

Do they burn equally cleanly, all other variables equal? Does one burn longer than the other?

Is there a wick to cylinder size that needs to be taken into account?
Is there a ratio between burn rate vs light emitted?

 

[demented dale]

I was thinking about making some candles and was wondering: Is there a difference in how a dipped vs a moulded candle burns?

Do they burn equally cleanly, all other variables equal? Does one burn longer than the other?

There are a few variables I have found but nothing massively noticeable in the ones I made and I have made hundreds. Quality wick is a must though but thats easy and cheap. If you look on the top tips thread that I started there are some pictures of my new molds. They are brilliant and I can put you onto the ebay sellers for wick, wax and molds if you want .

https://bushcraftuk.com/community/threads/top-tips-and-tricks.165231/page-4

there is the link Chris. It is number 72 on the thread, x

 

[Chris]

There are a few variables I have found but nothing massively noticeable in the ones I made and I have made hundreds. Quality wick is a must though but thats easy and cheap. If you look on the top tips thread that I started there are some pictures of my new molds. They are brilliant and I can put you onto the ebay sellers for wick, wax and molds if you want .

https://bushcraftuk.com/community/threads/top-tips-and-tricks.165231/page-4

there is the link Chris. It is number 72 on the thread, x

That’d be helpful, thanks Dale.

 

[Chris]

I doubt there will be any difference between dipped and moulded candles, if the size, wax and wick is the same. I've not compared them but I have compared different thicknesses of the same make of wick and that doesn't make any noticeable difference.

Make of wick does make a difference, I've just been trying another and it doesn't self trim as well or blow out as easily, so I'm not keen on it. The other factor is where you burn the candles, if they are in a draft they will not burn evenly and may spill wax down the side.

Do you still recommend this wick? It is top of my list from your recommendation, so thank you.

Post in thread 'Hand dipped candles'

Nov 16, 2025

Do you have to use specific material for the wick? I know nothing about candles, so I expect this is the most stupid simple of questions.

That's actually a very good question. I gather some people can struggle with beeswax but I've always used a suitable wick and they burn very well; cleanly, bright and with no wax dripping if there's no strong draft.

I uses this WickWell NT, the smaller NT14, 17 and 20 all seem to perform similarly in the small taper candles.

https://4candles.co.uk/products/wickwell-nt-candle-wick?variant=52238345142609

• slowworm

• 

 

[slowworm]

Yes, the Wickwell NT wick is much better than other wicks I've tried. I dont know if its the best but will be ordering some more as I've used up two spools of 5m and that's quite a few candles we've used.

I think I will go for the NT14 as its worked well for dipped as well as 'household' sized candles from a mould.

 

[demented dale]

That’d be helpful, thanks Dale.

Heres the molds. they are dead good. and a link for the wicks. The wax you will have to decide what you want. note when buying beeswax from china. I think it is a mixture of soya wax and beeswax. it is really good and cheap but not pure beeswax as advertised. Real beeswax costs loads. DD x

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[Chris]

Heres the molds. they are dead good. and a link for the wicks. The wax you will have to decide what you want. note when buying beeswax from china. I think it is a mixture of soya wax and beeswax. it is really good and cheap but not pure beeswax as advertised. Real beeswax costs loads. DD x

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Great, thanks for that.

 

[demented dale]

Great, thanks for that.

happy to help Chris. dd xxxxx

 

[Sooty22]

Dipped will likely have a slightly conical shape rather than a uniform diameter.

The optimal wick size of a candle is that which produces a molten wax pool diameter just a slither under the diameter of the candle; this balances exactly between the points of dripping and leaving a wall of solid wax up.

A thicker wick produces a hotter flame, all other things equal.

A wick which unravels produces a hotter flame than one which doesn't, all other things equal.

A lower melting temperature wax produces a bigger melt puddle diameter, all other things equal.

A conical candle will likely only burn optimally for some of its length, dripping at the top end and leaving a 'wall' unmelted as you go past the diameter where the wick works optimally.

A hotter environment (such as inside a lantern, or even the difference between a cold hut/tent and a warm living room) produces a bigger melt puddle diameter, all other things equal. This implies that a candle that burns perfectly in the open on a candleholder will melt and drip inside a lantern, as I found to my disappointment after trying my favourite candles in my Swiss army folding lantern.

You can control the puddle size by using a hotter wick (larger puddle), a cooler-burning wick (smaller puddle), or by the composition of your wax (balancing the ingredients to achieve a higher or lower melting temperature). You can add stearin to a wax mix to make it harder and melting at a higher temperature. High-stearin candles will probably work best in lanterns, which is what I want to try now for my next candle attempts!

 

[HillBill]

Late to the thread... was gonna weigh in... But Sooty seems to have explained the basic technicalities so i feel i have nothing to add.

Happy burning folks. Don't drip on anything that'll more than sting. Don't ask how i know that... I wont tell and she ain't talking to me these days.

 

[Billy-o]

Funny, I always thought dipped candles were somehow denser and burned longer. You live and learn, I suppose. But, why do people make dipped candles?

 

[slowworm]

Funny, I always thought dipped candles were somehow denser and burned longer. You live and learn, I suppose. But, why do people make dipped candles?

On a small scale I find the moulds can be slow and a bit tricky. You need to set the wick central, wait for the wax to set and then release the candle which can be difficult.

With a frame to hold the wicks in place it should be easy and quick to make several candles at a time. You can also make them different sizes to suit any holders you have, left thin for some holders and a few extra dips to get them much bigger.

I just need to make up a few suitable frames, dipping just using the wick can be slow and a bit too variable.