Underwhelming Candle-like Objects

[grizzlyj]

I recently bought some beeswax and paraffin to make some cotton reproofing wax. That only requires beeswax at 10% so I had a chunk left and I thought I would try candles for my candleier.
Comments in a previous thread suggested supplies from 4candles. The YT vid below was also suggested which I followed, using the tubes from the lantern as moulds.
4candles site suggested their NT26 wick as one to try for beeswax. Also as suggested here I got some palm stearin which I added at 4%. I also got their metal jug so the surplus wax could be left in it for next time, because obviously I was going to be successful in making dozens. The suggestion was actually for stearin, should I dose for palm stearin differently?
A YT comment suggested the blue low tack masking tape rather than the white he used which I did, and in the vid the silicone spray didn't work for releasing so I didn't bother.
I used a water bath to melt about enough beeswax for three candles. 4% stearin was added when liquid and swirled till I couldn't see it. The proper white candles weigh 50g each.
While heating up I totally lined the inside of the metal moulds with the blue masking tape, a bit wrinkly. This i thought was to give clearance between the sleeve and the finished candle.
One 50mm long piece of tape was put over the top hole with the last or top 10mm end of the wick pressed on so it kind of dangled centrally. I didn't know what the relevance of wick dipping was so didn't.
A water bowl (about a foot across and 50mm deep to continue my unit use consistancy) of cold water was set up ready, and a bit of blutack about 1" by 1" by a few mm thick was pressed on the top of the tube.
The tube mould was turned fat end up, pushed onto the blutac in the waterbath so it was held vertical ish.
I poured the wax into the first mould and held the bottom end of the wick central ish till it held itself.
I had also bought a few of the wick centralisers but they obstruct too much of the base to pour wax in, cheap but I should have stuck with the vids hair clip suggestion if I had any. No hair no clips.
Repeat twice more, leave to cool.
All had a central dimple form, or even a small hole going down the middle, so wax in the jug was remelted and candles topped up.
I filled almost to the top, but room is needed for the compressed spring plus the cap on that so I had to later trim some.
The candles were left till the next day. I used an original candle to push mine out the first few mm to break the seal, but the water soak overnight had made the masking tape soggy so they came out quite easily.
The wrinkles and folds in the masking tape were a little stuck in so left the wax surface unsmooth but not too bad.
I lit all three in the lantern and left them for maybe four hours.
One almost refused to light. The other two lit easily and burnt with a little too big a flame. The three wicks were consecutive off the reel from 4candles.
One of the bigger flamed ones burnt well with no issues. The other burnt well but spilt wax to a small extent. The tricky to light one spilt more wax and put itself out with the wick curling back into the liquid pool, so maybe the wick is too far off centre on that one?
Next time I will dip the wicks in the hope all wicks will be more central, and I may up the stearin content (10%?) to slow the burn? If I still get a big wick and spillage I'll get the next smaller wick.

 

[grizzlyj]

Any criticism and comments welcomed

 

[Toddy]

Nice write up

I find pre-waxing the wick helps to keep it straight and in position. In the long distant past I used to tie the bottom of the wick to a big glass bead to keep it down in the wax. Nowadays I use the metal wick support things and just remove and clean them for re-use.
Folks used to use an old lead curtain weight (they have a hole in the middle to sew through, or two like a button) or a bit of lolly stick and a drawing pin to hold the wick to it.

If you chill the wick beforehand I find it can sometimes give a 'wet' bond, and the wick isn't really fixed in the candle. Depends on just how much moisture it attracts being so cold in the room you're using.

I prefer the British made candlewicks....Midfords make their own and are very helpful too.

Candle Wick 10 Metre Cotton Braided - for 1.1/4" to 1.3/4" (32mm-43mm) (MBC-1H) | eBay

Braided on our own machinery in the UK. Cotton Braided Candle Wick.

www.ebay.co.uk

They don't mordant their wicks, but sometimes mordanting is no bad thing. I don't know if the Uco ones are or are not.

Shame about the messy one, but otherwise it sounds as though you're on the right track

 

[British Red]

I agree, wick size and precise centering are key. I would try a liquid mould release - eg.silicone spray. Easier than faffing with tape. The candles will shrink as they cool anyway.

 

[Deleted member 56522]

Whilst on the subject of wicks ... I bought some wicks on ebay but they turned out to be too "thin". If I buy some more, what should I look for in the description?

 

[Toddy]

Whilst on the subject of wicks ... I bought some wicks on ebay but they turned out to be too "thin". If I buy some more, what should I look for in the description?

The size of candle you intend to make, or at least the size of the pool of wax that you expect. The wick seller ought to be clear about the sizes the wick will be appropriate to use.

Honestly though, unless you're using someone like Midford's it can be very hit or miss. Indian wicks still come leaded at times (not good !) and you don't know it unless you know what you're looking for.
The Chinese ones, that usually come pre-fastened to the little metal supports, can be anything they had at hand.
I hasten to add that both those countries can and do produce good stuff, but you have to ask for it, and that means you have to know what you're asking for.

Midford's braid their own, and you can talk to them as well.

M

 

[Deleted member 56522]

The size of candle you intend to make, or at least the size of the pool of wax that you expect. The wick seller ought to be clear about the sizes the wick will be appropriate to use.

Honestly though, unless you're using someone like Midford's it can be very hit or miss. Indian wicks still come leaded at times (not good !) and you don't know it unless you know what you're looking for.
The Chinese ones, that usually come pre-fastened to the little metal supports, can be anything they had at hand.
I hasten to add that both those countries can and do produce good stuff, but you have to ask for it, and that means you have to know what you're asking for.

Midford's braid their own, and you can talk to them as well.

M

That sounds good advice. Thanks.

 

[grizzlyj]

If you look on the 4candles wick section they have suggestions of which wick for which size wick in which wax substance.

Regarding silicone spray as mentioned above the YT vid used it but it made no difference. He only used masking tape to blank off the mould slots then sprayed liberally, but they did not want to come out!

 

[Toddy]

I find it easier to line a straight candle mould with baking silicon paper. Basically I wrap it around the mould, add on and inch/2.5cm and then I narrowly fold over and then again, the edges. I then use that to line the metal or plastic tube.
If the wax sticks in the mould, a quick blast with the hairdryer on hot usually releases it neatly.

The silicon paper just peels off, or if I've made a tidy job of things I just use it as a protective wrap around the candle.

Thing is too, if you're careful, that you can pleat the bottom of the paper tidily and it'll let you thread the wick through the centre to hold it in place.

It's footery, but it works.

 

[grizzlyj]

I find it easier to line a straight candle mould with baking silicon paper. Basically I wrap it around the mould, add on and inch/2.5cm and then I narrowly fold over and then again, the edges. I then use that to line the metal or plastic tube.
If the wax sticks in the mould, a quick blast with the hairdryer on hot usually releases it neatly.

The silicon paper just peels off, or if I've made a tidy job of things I just use it as a protective wrap around the candle.

Thing is too, if you're careful, that you can pleat the bottom of the paper tidily and it'll let you thread the wick through the centre to hold it in place.

It's footery, but it works.

That sounds very technical I have silicon baking sheets but they're not very thin? Not heard of silicone baking paper before, that's different to just baking paper?

I thought I needed to use the lantern sleeves to form the odd shape at the top of the proper ones to at least some degree. But having made some that don't really do that. and with nothing like the top nobble like they have, I can't see what they're there for?
So using pipe would seem as sensible if I can get some of the right diameter.
Hennie do a ceramic veg knife which is cheaper if you also buy a ceramic potato peeler for some reason. The knife won't rust outside for harvesting for dinner, the peeler I didn't really want may end up being used to shave candles
So I can use a pipe nearly the right diameter, support a dipped wick at 3 feet long, pour the lot then slice accordingly to length once set. Shave/peel to required size. Fool proof.

 

[Toddy]

Good idea on the ceramic peeler
That said, I bought a set for under £3 in Home Bargains and they lasted fine. The peeler was lethal ! I gave it away. They don't have the set now, I looked, but if they had them, then someone else will most likely have them too.
I like Heinie's but they aren't cheap.

Silicon paper, or baking parchment. It's different from greaseproof in that the oil/wax/butter doesn't really soak through it. Comes in both brown and white.

It's a bit of a footer, but I've got it down pat now so I don't get a mess. Mind and cut the paper longer than the tube so you can fold over the ends to help keep it snuggly in place if you do try it.

The candle should shrink off the mould, like a cake or a loaf does if left to cool a little in the tin. I find the paper lets me unmould a bit more quickly and I can reuse the mould as soon as the wax has set enough to be handle-able.

While I mind; if you come across any of the 1970's power cuts candles, they're really good for the uco moulding.
I got given a box of 6 dozen a while back.
Makes me wonder what will be kicking about 50 years after this damned plague settles

 

[Woody girl]

This is all very informative as I recently bought a uco lantern and a box of 3×9hour candles as spares. The candles are so pricey, that's if you can actualy find any for sale!
I have been promised some free raw beeswax after my beekeeping friend takes his first harvest later this year, so I have all the work of refining it, before I can even use it.
Still, I intend to make some candles so I'm following your exploits with avid interest.
I think wicks are the most important part to get a good success rate. There are many to choose from, so I'd be interested in which wick you use to get the best burn result.
Thank you for telling us the reality of making uco candles as against the yt vids that show perfect results first time!
I make basic candles myself using remelted candlewax remnants, in recycled containers using normal cotton string for wicks, which kinda work, and I can say that waxing the string beforehand so that it sits straight in the mould when you are pouring in the melted wax, is a must with my method. !

 

[slowworm]

Well, I've tried a few moulds and methods and what works for me so far is:

1) Don't use water, no matter what I found the wick would get wet and the candle would not burn.

2) I don't use blue tack or anything to secure the wick at the base of the mould, if the hole is too big I pour a little bit of wax in and let it set (a few seconds) and then pour the rest. This might take a bit of practice as the set wax starts to melt the bottom as you pour the rest.

3) The top wick clip can be pushed to one side whilst you pour the wax and then quickly centralised.

4) The candles can be released from the mould more easily if you put the set candle into the freezer. I've never lined my moulds but I've only silicone rubber ones and plastic that split in two ( like these: https://www.proopsbrothers.com/cand...hape-set-x-3-95-long-uk-made-s7574-8004-p.asp )

5) If I wanted to make lots of the Uco style candles I'd get a silicone mould made as I can make a candle in mine in about ten minutes, i.e. the wax is set enough in about 10 mins to release, perhaps 20 mins for a thicker candle. With my wax melter sitting on my stove during the evening I can make a batch of candles.

6) I'm still trying out wick sizes, I tend to use a slightly smaller wick than is suggested but not decided what's best yet.

 

[grizzlyj]

1) The wick that wouldn't light could of course have been soaked with water. That is so obvious now you say it! Duh.
2) The hole in the bottom of the lantern metal sleeve from the lantern that I used is about half an inch across.
3) What is a wick clip? Kirby clips as used in the YT vid above?
4) I will try freezing. Ta.
5) A silicone mould for this shape is for sale on auction sites sometimes for about £30. I will try to not spend that. Making my own silicone mould using the candle shape I have already may get tried but I've not done that before either.
6) 4candles I think list three sizes for beeswax small ish candles, no suggestion of when to use which one. For not much cash I should have bought all three to try perhaps.


Also, Hennie Samura ceramic fruit knife £7.95, Samura ceramic fruit knife with peeler £6.95. Same knife as far as I can tell?

 

[slowworm]

I missed the fact you used the lantern sleeve. I wonder if you could make an end with some thick foil, then poke a small hole.

For a wick clip, something like a hair clip as you mention, or a lollystick of strip of plastic with a slot cut in where you can insert the wick. I use understandable with my moulds but I'm sure you could make something. https://www.proopsbrothers.com/cand...-for-candle-making-choice-of-style-8492-p.asp

 

[SaraR]

I recently bought some beeswax and paraffin to make some cotton reproofing wax. That only requires beeswax at 10% so I had a chunk left and I thought I would try candles for my candleier.
...

Apparently, wicks have an 'up' and 'down' and will burn better if used the right way around in the candle. Obviously not a massive issue since you usually make dipped candles by hanging the wick in a long U over a stick (making two candles), but according to a candle maker at a workshop I attended once enough to be noticeable.

 

[grizzlyj]

The wick I bought was 10m wrapped on a winder, no direction given

 

[Toddy]

There's an awful lot of myth around the 'direction' of everything from thread to rope.
Too many folks don't see that turning something that's spun or plied around doesn't change it's direction. The spin/ply stays the same.
The only thing that changes is the smoothness of the finish caused by the direction that the original fibres were laid down.

So, when you brush a thread one way, sometimes, and it is only sometimes and really really rare with modern technology, you get a slightly furry sort of feeling to the thread.

If you have waxed a wick and run it through something, perhaps to remove excess wax, then that might and I do mean might, flatten the fibres or raise them.

Tbh, I think that once the candle's alight it's alight. So long as it can support the pool of wax and not gutter out, then the balance is sound.

 

[slowworm]

Some wicks are sold as directional. The ones I have have a knot at one end which is the top. The WickWell NT wick isn't directional as far as I know.

 

[grizzlyj]

I'd have thought the little pixies in the wick who actually create the smoke would be really cheesed off if they have to work upside down though?