Working on a gas bottle stove

[Everything Mac]

Buddy of mine needs to warm his shed come winter and asked me to make a gas bottle stove for him.

It's more fabrication and welding than forging - and turning into a right pain as my welding is rather bad.

But here we are so far:

cut the bottle to a rough shape and cut out a door. This was interesting as either the door closed up or the bottle opened up slightly as there was a significant gap when I put the panel back in. Rather odd.

Id planned on putting a boarder on it anyway so no harm done.

He we are as it stands so far today. The hinges have been welded on and it sits waiting for an attack from the grinder prior to some clean up welds.

i need to devise an air inlet and sort a catch for the door. Then it's on to the plate for the top of the stove.

Cheers
Andy

 

[Goatboy]

That's looking pretty darn good, should throw out and retain and heck of a heat. Be good to see how it progresses.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Looks good. That will be a fair size when finished, and kick out some BTU's.

 

[Alreetmiowdmuka]

I've had a gas bottle sitting in the back garden for twelve months for this very purpose.will be good too see how it progresses


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[British Red]

I would advise adding a sliding or rotating air vent in the door - being able to regulate air flow is pretty much vital to efficient control of the burn.

Might be worth putting some fire rope round the door too?

 

[Everything Mac]

I would advise adding a sliding or rotating air vent in the door - being able to regulate air flow is pretty much vital to efficient control of the burn.

Might be worth putting some fire rope round the door too?

Thats tomorrow's project, I need to make the latch too. It's owner can sort out the fire rope.

I'll weld in a bit of box section for the vent.

Andy

 

[Everything Mac]

All "finished", well the bulk of it is finished now. I need to weld on the section of pipe to for the base of the chimney and do a fair bit more grinding to clean up my welds. (I'm using an arc welder and it's bloomin tricky compared to mig)

Sorted the catch for the door.

Welded end a circular saw blade to the top and then created a very brut de forge air control valve.
Here you can see the eventual look

With the valve

Close up

I'll honest and say this is not a project for a beginner. It was tricky and frankly a pain in the a€se. You'll need good tools. You could get away without welding if you're a clever clogs but a good angle grinder is essential.

I'd normally go for the mig welder but I was playing with the new oxford stick welder as I'm out of wire for the mig, the welds are ugly bit they'll hold.

I'll get the chimney welded on when I get back to shore in a couple of weeks.

Hope this has inspired a few and not caused too many cringes from those of you who know what you're doing...

Andy

 

[Clouston98]

Looks good mate- that bad boy will chuck the heat out!

 

[British Red]

It'll work. It'll smoke like a pig when first lit as it burns off the paint mind you

The air regulator you have built is basically a damper - more commonly seen in the flue. I can't see why it won't work though!

 

[Everything Mac]

It'll work. It'll smoke like a pig when first lit as it burns off the paint mind you

The air regulator you have built is basically a damper - more commonly seen in the flue. I can't see why it won't work though!

Fits nice and tight when it's shut so should do fine. The door shuts tight too but some fire rope/ tape won't go amiss.

Andy

 

[mark stotesbury]

Love it with a little thought you can get a great dwarf barbeque set up, install a feeding station in front of the oven , build a big enough fire in it so that valve can suck up any rodents in the room -you may just need to work on a grid design to gather them or maybe an internal venturi system that spins them and cooks them at the same time - same idea as a chicken rotisserie just on turbo you may need to add another valve to control the suction no good you shooting roast door mice into the neighbours yard via the chimney .
For squirrels you may need to use gas to get a stronger suction effect , those little buggers have a good grip plus you need to roast the acorns/chestnuts at the same time ,one can never guarantee the grade of acorn you get so rather go gas you don't want to get 1/2 cooked nuts with your meat .

 

[Everything Mac]

Love it with a little thought you can get a great dwarf barbeque set up, install a feeding station in front of the oven , build a big enough fire in it so that valve can suck up any rodents in the room -you may just need to work on a grid design to gather them or maybe an internal venturi system that spins them and cooks them at the same time - same idea as a chicken rotisserie just on turbo you may need to add another valve to control the suction no good you shooting roast door mice into the neighbours yard via the chimney .
For squirrels you may need to use gas to get a stronger suction effect , those little buggers have a good grip plus you need to roast the acorns/chestnuts at the same time ,one can never guarantee the grade of acorn you get so rather go gas you don't want to get 1/2 cooked nuts with your meat .

You been on the beer tonight?

 

[mountainm]

I don't thin bbq'ing dwarves is a good idea. A Lannister always pays his debts...

 

[mark stotesbury]

no beer just red wine

 

[Tom Gold]

Looks good. Especially like that youve kept original paint and hazard symbol in centre of the door. Any tips on removing valves and making safe?

 

[British Red]

The paint won't last beyond the first firing - trust me!

 

[Everything Mac]

Haven't fired it yet, hence the paint still being alive.


I got lucky, the local scrappy had cut the valve out before I bought it so it was just a case of fill it with water just to be sure and then cut it open with the angle grinder.
As such I've no real tips on removing the valve. Common sense prevails, just open it and release as much gas as you can, then try and unscrew it, fill the tank with water and the have at it. I suggest a more thorough google before you take that advice though.

All the best
Andy

 

[feralpig]

Nice job. Coming along tidy. You might find the door warps with the heat, and needs an extra catch to keep it tight, buts it is just as well to let it warp then fit it, so it goes in the right place.

I've removed a few valves, all have been a bit of a battle. What I tend to do is Push a long iron bar into the shroud around the valve, to stop the bottle turning, then slip a piece of box iron over the valve, a nice tight fit, then get a stilson on the box iron, and turn it with that. They are tight. I can't quite bring myself to sit on top of the bomb, to stop it turning.......

Open the valve, before removing it, and leave the bottle upside down for a while, (an Hour, a day, whatever) to get the last of the gas out, then fill with water before cutting it.

Calor issued a statement a while back, getting all upset about peeps chopping up their bottles to make stuff out of. I seem to remember threats were made to track down these heinous criminals, but haven't heard anything about it since. So just for the record, I've never so much as scratched the paintwork on a gas bottle............

 

[British Red]

Don't forget too that many of the parts of a gas installation are left hand thread. I know regulators screw in with a left hand thread, I can't recall whether the main cylinder valve is or not?

 

[feralpig]

Without a doubt, the reg is left hand thread. As far as I know, the actual valve screwing into the cylinder, is not. I haven't found one that is, and don't know of anyone who has. That certainly isn't to say that it couldn't happen though.
It has had me wondering a few times mind, they are that tight.