Which Axe Sharpening Tools?

[resnikov]

I'm looking at getting an axe or a hatchet latter this year, so I am looking at what I need to care for it.
I have read British Red's thread How to Sharpen an Axe - Picture Heavy and so I have an understanding of how to sharpen an axe but I am wondering on what peoples opinions’ of the sharpening tools are. Is it better to buy something like the Gransfors Bruks sharpening system at around £84 or go for the cheaper option like British Red lists.

Which will be better for the long term ?

Which will last long?

If I go for the cheaper option now, will I be replacing bits of it every so often so in the long term costing myself more ?

Are there any other comparable systems to the Gransfors Bruks? Lansky?

 

[tommy the cat]

I would buy an axe puck not the gf one you can get them cheaper and as good. I would buy a stone or cheap diamond stones and stock to that for now.
I have not needed to use a file on mine although I own a few and usually use the puck and strop.
£80 alot of money for someting that doesn't get used alot IMHO .
D

 

[Nonsuch]

If you're getting one with the right convex profile in the first place (GB, Husky, Wetterlings etc), then all you will need is an axe puck/stone, unless you nick the edge in which case you will need a file - just a £5 basic mill file will do. If you intend playing around and picking up and refurbing old car boot hatchets and axes as well, or modding the Cold Steel Hawk for example, then some re-profiling will be needed, for which you will definitely need a file. Even if you don't intend doing this, you almost certainly will end up there!

NS

 

[Shewie]

I use the GB puck stone and then a bit of a strop

 

[Retired Member southey]

Holy smokes dude! £84! I use a puk for reconditioning, and a dc3 for general upkeep of axe and knives,works well for me.

 

[resnikov]

Already got a DC4, so maybe just a puck is the way to go but I did like the idea of the GB set and being able to pass it on to my kids later on in life.

 

[John Fenna]

Cheap file, GFB Puck, strop - works for me.

 

[TomBartlett]

How long do you usually spend in one session sharpening your axe? Also, what measure of sharpness do you use? Cut printer paper? Save your arm hairs?

 

[ickyan]

How long do you usually spend in one session sharpening your axe? Also, what measure of sharpness do you use? Cut printer paper? Save your arm hairs?

that's quite a hard target, but it is possible (good for mini axes)
I normally go a bit below that though.

I use a foldable diamond file/stone (£2.50 ebay, and found a small one free in a nail cutting set)
and to finish a home-made stone from a river

 

[John Fenna]

How long do you usually spend in one session sharpening your axe? Also, what measure of sharpness do you use? Cut printer paper? Save your arm hairs?

The time spent sharpening depends how long it was used and blunted/chipped last time it was out...
I always aim for an edge that will slice free hanging newspaper - but with a strong convex so that the edge is not weak.

 

[ged]

I think to ask/answer this question you need to also say what you use the axe for.

I sharpen my axes a couple of times a year at the very most. It takes about 15 seconds on a bench grinder. It would take a few minutes with a file if was out in the wilds, but I rarely take an axe out in the wilds and certainly never for long enough to make it blunt enough to need sharpening. I fell the odd tree, when most of the work will be done by a chain saw, and I lop a few branches and split a lot of logs. You don't need anything very sharp to split logs, just a wedge will do it. You couldn't cut a sheet of paper with one of my axes without gluing it to a log first. When it comes to tools I'm not really a purist.

If I want something sharp that will chop then I use a machete or a parang. Except for splitting logs I much prefer them to axes for the sort of jobs I do, for example they're a lot easier to use than an axe if you're 20 metres up a tree.

 

[Ian S]

I like a well-sharpened axe. Here's what I use:

1) File - only if needed

2) Lidl diamond hones - rough, medium and fine - as needed

3) Wet & Dry paper - 240, 400, 600, 1000 or thereabouts

4) Strop

I use a Gransfors carving axe for (wait for it) carving, and I can get it plenty sharp with this set-up.

Cheers

 

[flexo]

i use a file,a shythe stone (hard),some piece of pavement as a burnisher,fungus as strope.

 

[steven andrews]

I just use wet-and-dry (anywhere inbetween 180 and 2500 grit) and a phone book.

 

[Biker]

Hmmm well I had a sharpen up session today, knives drawknifes chisels and a couple of axes, both small hatchets For these I used my bench mounted disk sander with a very worn down 120 grit disk. I bought one of those Aldi/Lidl bench grinders and adapted it to take velcro sanding disks. Anyway I was most impressed with the edge it got on my axes that I used it to sharpen my drawknife too. In the gift it on thread I passed one of those drawknifes I shaprened up to Drliamski so maybe he can pass judgement on the finish.

Yes I know it's a machine, and those wannabe Luddites here (Cough John Fenna cough cough) might disapprove, but like Ged says "When it comes to tools I'm not really a purist."

The edge was so sharp it didn't even need a stropping. It's also sharper than most of SWMBO's kitchen knives.

 

[resnikov]

Is it me or does every where seem to be out of stock of either the Lansky or GB puck?

 

[Shewie]

Is it me or does every where seem to be out of stock of either the Lansky or GB puck?

Lurch or Tamarack should have the GB one in

 

[mountainm]

Would a hacksaw cut up a normal sharpening stone so you could make 3 pucks? Or am I going to just blunt my hacksaw trying?

 

[resnikov]

Lurch or Tamarack should have the GB one in

Lurch lists them but there is no "buy" button. Will have a look at Tamarack, never used them before.