Toboggan Build

[Dave]

Part 5

Here we have the white 5mm running line, with solid cast brass loops standing upright on the ash struts/thwarts, and a coil of 25mm camoflaged polypropylene tape, which is long enough to zizag all the way down the tobbogan, and then all the way back up, covering the load, and being pulled tight through the metal croc clamp where it began.

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But first we'll have, six straps, pulled tightly across the load. Each strap, attached via loop to the white running line.

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Here you can see how on one side of the boggan, the strap loops through the white running line, and the metal [us army] clips we'll be using, to cinch the load down.

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On the other side of the boggon the straps have a stitched loop on either end.
One end will have the white running line going through it.
The other loped end, clips into the metal [us army] clip, over the load, then we pull tight to cinch the load down.

[Its not done yet, but you get the idea right?]

[URL=http://s1100.photobucket.com/user/BR1GANTES/media/10_zpsqipez7zr.jpg.html]
[IMG]http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g416/BR1GANTES/10_zpsqipez7zr.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

The only thing thats left really now is to add another strut, in the middle of the curve, and attach the pulling lines, etc.....

But so, far, its turned out better than expected, and im quite proud of it. Its really bombproof.

Macentyre, who did my anorak, has made me a pulling strap, using some closed cell foam, same as in the shoulder strap of a rucksack...

I'll post a final post when it all completed now. But the hard works done, and it was an enjoyable project so far!

 

[Stevie777]

Maybe it's just me but i'm really struggling to understand how this toboggan looks and works. I take it it's not a winter Olympic event toboggan or anything like a Husky sled.?

Any pics of one finished ?

 

[Dave]

[video=youtube;OV0ud492UcU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV0ud492UcU[/video]


Expedition Film, with Lure of the North, guests and the Connovers
[video=youtube;aJ5EmldH3ZY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ5EmldH3ZY&spfreload=10[/video]

 

[Wayland]

Maybe it's just me but i'm really struggling to understand how this toboggan looks and works. I take it it's not a winter Olympic event toboggan or anything like a Husky sled.?

Any pics of one finished ?

This is mine in use. It's based on the native American Toboggan which is for transporting baggage while snow shoeing.

The originals were made of thin strips of wood, ours use modern plastics for ease and durability.

 

[sunndog]

Looking good dave......are you sure its big enough though mate

 

[Dave]

Looking good dave......are you sure its big enough though mate

Yeh, but you've never met me, Im 6'9"........That was a lie.

Its 9.8 feet, so theres about 7.8 feet of usable packing space. Theres nothing better than having a canoe, or something which is dead easy to move, and you can get so much kit in it, its more comfortable than your house.

 

[Dave]

Im left with a few choices now, and havent decided yet, on the rest of the construction.

Ill probably start the white running line at the back centre strut, leaving some slack, to form a grab handle loop, with a simple overhand knot, on the outside of the back thwart. So theres a loop there, then run the line along the front of the back thwart to the routed grooves on the underside of the thwart, then tie a clove hitch, on either side with the brass loops on top.

But then we hit the first choice. Is it better to have the running line touching the boggan, or level with the top of the thwarts as it runs down the sides?

Havent decided.

When it gets to the front thwart, Ill go through both the routed underside grooves, and then another choice.

Tie them off together, in front of the front thwart, using a double overhand knot, then pull them up tight to each other. [Then pull the entire running line tight from the grab handle loop at the back, and tie an overhand knot forming the back loop]

Or just tie them off with a clove hitch. The latter would be stronger.

Then there is the whole front to think about. The pulling lines, and tump strap....Theres a load of different ways of doing that....attaching it etc.......... ....sigh...
:Thinkingo


Best, to sleep on problems sometimes eh?

 

[Shewie]

Nicely done Dave

I'm still to make a start on mine

 

[Dave]

Cheers Bud. Get yours posted as well. Hope some of this stuff helps.


[Im having to do mine quite quickly cause Bob and I have booked a flight, and I need to know the weight and rolled up dimensions to pay the extra baggage allowance.]

Anyone feel free to throw ideas in, regarding the suspension, front end.....my brains fogged up.

 

[Stevie777]

OK, Gottcha now. Cheers guys.

I have seen these types of sleds before obviously, but they were usually loaded so couldn't make out the construction.

 

[Stevie777]

Cheers Bud. Get yours posted as well. Hope some of this stuff helps.


[Im having to do mine quite quickly cause Bob and I have booked a flight, and I need to know the weight and rolled up dimensions to pay the extra baggage allowance.]

Anyone feel free to throw ideas in, regarding the suspension, front end.....my brains fogged up.

Might be cheaper just to post it there and back, No?

 

[Dave]

You can roll them up so tightly Steve they'll go in your normal luggage.

 

[Wayland]

The only tip I can give you on the pulling line is include some elasticity in the system.

I had some short loops of bungee cord in mine which meant if I hit an obstacle, which you will from time to time, it was not such a jolt across the shoulders.

I had a simple strap for the body end which was versatile and gave the ability to change options for the terrain.

 

[Shewie]

One question for you Dave

How do you work out where the lift should start on the front curve, i.e the point where it leaves the ground and starts to rise? I imagine if it's wrong it could be a bouncy ride?

 

[dewi]

Pretty nifty that Dave... I didn't know you had to make it yourself, I thought it would just come in kit form!

Are you adding wheels for camping in the UK?

 

[Dave]

The only tip I can give you on the pulling line is include some elasticity in the system.

I had some short loops of bungee cord in mine which meant if I hit an obstacle, which you will from time to time, it was not such a jolt across the shoulders.

I had a simple strap for the body end which was versatile and gave the ability to change options for the terrain.

Its funny you mention that, because I havent seen any suspension built into the kits, but I was thinking of doing the same thing. I've had a look at yours Wayland, and I can see youve added two nylon loops under the front oak strut/thwart, and Im assuming, that strut is taking the entire force of your pulling? I considered doing that myself. And i might stil do yet. dont know. just trial and error atm.

One question for you Dave
How do you work out where the lift should start on the front curve, i.e the point where it leaves the ground and starts to rise? I imagine if it's wrong it could be a bouncy ride?

I guess that depends on how thick the snow is? If its a well padded trail, it would not carve like it would in powder. As the front end is tapered. So an adjustable system would seem best, and I dont think too difficult to create. just by using an adjustable truckers hitch or similiar. I think probably the first thing to do though is cut it so it will carve. TBut the idea is it fits into your own footsteps.hanks for the question though, its made me think...

Pretty nifty that Dave... I didn't know you had to make it yourself, I thought it would just come in kit form!

Are you adding wheels for camping in the UK?

LOL no mate. Its quite a difficult build really. Enjoyable though. Plus the kits will set you back £400 ish? And I dont think would be as strong as the way Ive done it. If you look at them...


Been mucking around with loads.

For me its a process of trying some things, realising they wont work, then back to the drawing board.

For instance, this is a quick load out I shoved on. Just what was lying about in the garage, and I havent put the camo straps through the straps on my luggage bags as I would do on an expedition, just so you can see more clearly how they go across.




This wouldnt be a typical load either. [But good to know it could handle things like firewood.]


Mistakes.

Now on the front, Ive just lashed that white running rope up, through the brass loop onto the front thwart. Which has lifted the white running rope too high. So scrap that idea. Or come up with a different knot.

Here I added the criss-cross system, with the other roll of camo tape, starting at the front, then zigzagging from left to right, all the way to the the back, from the front, and then zigzag back to the front, passing through the brass loops. This should enable me to add another thing top bag to the sled, with ease if i wanted to.




It worked very well, you can wrap the camo tape around the firewood a couple of times, and around your pack straps a couple of times etc. Its not going anywhere. and even on the carpet is easy to pull.

But the white running line on the very front brass ring cant handle the tension; you can see its pulled right up.

The other Brass rings along the sides handled the tension very well:



Back Strut:

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What I am going to do at the front, is add another strut between the front two struts, drill two holes through them. Thats where I will pull from.

Here you can see how Lure of the north do it with their sleds.

Lure of the north tobbogan making instructions

If you look at the very first photo, you can see they have a big yellow grab handle, but look below that, and you'll see two yellow lines coming straight out of the plastic sled.

Theyve put a knot at the back of the thwart, near ground level, and two yellow lines come out. Connected to the suspension system and pulling lines and tump/strap.

So I'll do that I think, just shove a strut in about here: You can see it poking out the edge. I'll just cut it down to size and have the pulling system come out through that.

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Hope that all makes sense.

 

[Imagedude]

I'm using a climbing bandolier as the base for my tump strap...

 

[Dave]

Thats a good idea. It looks like it would work really well.

I got lucky with the strap, I mentioned it to Macentyre, and he offered to do me one for free! What a guy! Its padded. Like a rucksack strap, same material as my anorak.



Note to self.

1. Dont attach brass loops via running lines. Better to have a strong running line attached with real clove hitches. Take up to top outside thwart, clove hitch, and with excess make forward grab loop, tying both ends together, with double fishermans knot. Short enough so it doesnt drag in snow.
2. Place Brass loops just inside running lines, on top of thwart, routed in underside, near bolt, 1mm deep, attached to squashed paracord, with Canadian jam knots on top.
3. Make another strut, to be placed at bottom of curve, between first two struts. Use small piece of bungee cord, or similiar for little suspension.
Run two pulling lines through that thwart.
Length of pulling lines?

Pull straps over the thwarts to avoid bowing the plastic.

 

[sunndog]

Yeh, but you've never met me, Im 6'9"........That was a lie.

Its 9.8 feet, so theres about 7.8 feet of usable packing space. Theres nothing better than having a canoe, or something which is dead easy to move, and you can get so much kit in it, its more comfortable than your house.

Aye hauling takes the weight off alright. I'v only ever used small pulks about 4 foot long so these boggans look like road trains

 

[dewi]

Dave, would it not be more efficient to attach the pulling straps to the 2nd cross support rather than the first? The first is bent back and attached to the second anyway, so rather than put the stress on the first, why not pull directly from the second?

Or am I looking at it wrong?