I got a copy of WILDWOOD WISDOM afew months back,And I love it,great tips and advise,Would recomend it,
I prefer the Traditional MORA knife out of those 4
I prefer the Traditional MORA knife out of those 4
The Experts Choice
- Thread starter Doc
- Start date
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Fantastic post there Doc. Firstly - I agree totally with w00dsmoke's request for a review and comparison of tha authors. Even just seeing those books in the pictures has lengthend my ever growing shopping list of books.
I'm still scratching my head and scraping the pennies to buy a proper knife so this has been very helpful.
There's something about the shape of the woodlore style knife that really appeals. I've only recently used an Opinel #8 which I like but need something more serious. I'm not even sure it's the Mears connection that does it for me (though I admit - I hold Mears in high regard and as somewhat of an inspiration). The price kind of kills that idea though.
A couple of questions...
1> Olson's Puukko knife... I know he'll have used his pretty hard, but how would a stick tang knife like that hold up for heavy use in things like batoning?
I imagine the average (I assume Canadian) outdoorsman would turn to an axe long before batoning - but I wouldn't fancy getting a knife I like (and I like the look of that) and breaking it with something like that because I won't have an axe on me most of the time.
2> Also - any idea how thick that blade is?
3> What's the benefit of the partial edge on the back of the knife in the Marbles Expert?
4> Same question about batoning for that knife too.
5> As above, how thick is "fairly thin"?
All the knives you posted must be high quality to have such skilled people using them, but if I knew these things it would probably help me decide.
I need to stop reading threads like this - they always threaten to get expensive as my shopping list grows! Haha.
I'm still scratching my head and scraping the pennies to buy a proper knife so this has been very helpful.
There's something about the shape of the woodlore style knife that really appeals. I've only recently used an Opinel #8 which I like but need something more serious. I'm not even sure it's the Mears connection that does it for me (though I admit - I hold Mears in high regard and as somewhat of an inspiration). The price kind of kills that idea though.
A couple of questions...
1> Olson's Puukko knife... I know he'll have used his pretty hard, but how would a stick tang knife like that hold up for heavy use in things like batoning?
I imagine the average (I assume Canadian) outdoorsman would turn to an axe long before batoning - but I wouldn't fancy getting a knife I like (and I like the look of that) and breaking it with something like that because I won't have an axe on me most of the time.
2> Also - any idea how thick that blade is?
3> What's the benefit of the partial edge on the back of the knife in the Marbles Expert?
4> Same question about batoning for that knife too.
5> As above, how thick is "fairly thin"?
All the knives you posted must be high quality to have such skilled people using them, but if I knew these things it would probably help me decide.
I need to stop reading threads like this - they always threaten to get expensive as my shopping list grows! Haha.
:You_Rock_ well i sort of consider myself a knife aficionado. i have long maintained that it doesn't matter what your knife looks like. it's not heresy to me, it's common sense.a good knife needs to have four things. a user who can get it sharp, a user who can keep it sharp, a user who can do stuff with it, and a nice pointy point. so if anyone says that such and such a knife is a load of crepe. there is a 75% probability that it's due to pilot error!
cheers, and.
a good knife needs to have four things. a user who can get it sharp, a user who can keep it sharp, a user who can do stuff with it, and a nice pointy point. so if anyone says that such and such a knife is a load of crepe. there is a 75% probability that it's due to pilot error!
cheers, and.[/QUOTE]
couldn't agree more.
Adam.
cheers, and.[/QUOTE]
couldn't agree more.
Adam.
oh and there's at least one more....
we ran a scout bushcraftcourse based on bushcraft heroes last year, sadly i didn't have quite the exact models of knives in a couple of cases. we were able to explain many of the whys and wherefores though.
cheers, and.
we ran a scout bushcraftcourse based on bushcraft heroes last year, sadly i didn't have quite the exact models of knives in a couple of cases. we were able to explain many of the whys and wherefores though.
cheers, and.
I think Rutstrum would have gone for a crooked rather than a hook though...
More like this one in the center.
More like this one in the center.
Another book that is very good imo,is Cache Lake Country by John Rowlands.
It does talk some of knives and axes and such but it is so much more.I can't put it into words,if you like woodcraft check it out.
It does talk some of knives and axes and such but it is so much more.I can't put it into words,if you like woodcraft check it out.
I notice with interest 80 % of the Experts listed choose a stick tang. (although not all shown correctly)
You reallly can baton with a stick tang they are not just some flimsy excuse for a knife. The Fulltang woodlore/clone is very recent in all this.
This just goes to show you do not need a fulltang woodlore/clone.
You reallly can baton with a stick tang they are not just some flimsy excuse for a knife. The Fulltang woodlore/clone is very recent in all this.
This just goes to show you do not need a fulltang woodlore/clone.
Sorry for late reply, been away.
The Marbles is certainly thinner than the Wilkinson woodlore (3.6mm). I'd guess it's the same as my Brusletto - about 2.8mm. Also the Marbles has a curved spine so it will not work with a firesteel. The false point I presume is for making that first skin puncture when skinning game.
Many of the old books do not mention batoning, on the assumption you have an ax or tomahawk for splitting wood. That said, I think the ability to baton wood is very important in the UK, where it is less usual to carry an ax.
It is interesting how the Woodlore is very thick bladed and is full tang. The weight penalty is significant so you have to ask why it is designed this way. The only reason I can think of is for batoning. It is indeed excellent at this.
That said, I agree with Brancho that stick tangs are plenty strong enough for batoning.
I wonder exactly which puukko Sig Olson carried. Originally I thought it may have been a Marttinni Lynx, which was first made before the war, IIRC. However, as he commented it had been made from an old file, I suspect it was a hand made one off. Minnessota had many folk from Sweden and Finland, and Scandinavian knives were no doubt often seen in that state.
He also had an 'IXL' trade knife which he found on a portage one day, but as far as I am aware he had this as a souvenir rather than a tool.
The Marbles is certainly thinner than the Wilkinson woodlore (3.6mm). I'd guess it's the same as my Brusletto - about 2.8mm. Also the Marbles has a curved spine so it will not work with a firesteel. The false point I presume is for making that first skin puncture when skinning game.
Many of the old books do not mention batoning, on the assumption you have an ax or tomahawk for splitting wood. That said, I think the ability to baton wood is very important in the UK, where it is less usual to carry an ax.
It is interesting how the Woodlore is very thick bladed and is full tang. The weight penalty is significant so you have to ask why it is designed this way. The only reason I can think of is for batoning. It is indeed excellent at this.
That said, I agree with Brancho that stick tangs are plenty strong enough for batoning.
I wonder exactly which puukko Sig Olson carried. Originally I thought it may have been a Marttinni Lynx, which was first made before the war, IIRC. However, as he commented it had been made from an old file, I suspect it was a hand made one off. Minnessota had many folk from Sweden and Finland, and Scandinavian knives were no doubt often seen in that state.
He also had an 'IXL' trade knife which he found on a portage one day, but as far as I am aware he had this as a souvenir rather than a tool.
What a cracking idea for a post.
I've never understood the conformity with knife types .
For me a knife choice is as personal as my choice in books or music.
Just because one knife suits one author does not mean it is the "right" choice for everyone.[/QUOTE]
Spot on.
There is the "right" knife for the job as well as for the person too.
Over the years I've found that the knife I bought with the expectation that it is The knife, falls down in some important respects. Great for some jobs but mediocre at best for others.
The Finns seem to have a range of knives available when out in the wild. The absolute minimum seems to be two.
Thanks for the reply there Doc.
I'll be getting myself a fancy knife or three some time in the (hopefully) not too distant future so that info will be useful.
I don't suppose it's the end of the world not being able to use the marbles on a firesteel... once could always (I assume) use the cutting edge (maybe have a part right next to the handle where you always use the steel) or just use another blade like my trusty Opinel 8.
I'll be getting myself a fancy knife or three some time in the (hopefully) not too distant future so that info will be useful.
I don't suppose it's the end of the world not being able to use the marbles on a firesteel... once could always (I assume) use the cutting edge (maybe have a part right next to the handle where you always use the steel) or just use another blade like my trusty Opinel 8.
No expert and a newbie here but I thought I would jump in.
I seem to collect knives like a rat collects fleas.I think I have tried all the flash knives that
are in my budget range( small).
But the two I have with me for everything hunting,camping or just out and about are these two.
This was made by a friend of mine.A classic Nessmuk.
and the faithful Helle
Mind you I have this one on order but it could go out as a Christmas prezzie if I am not too taken with it.
http://www.blindhorseknives.com/BHK-Bushcrafter.htm
Stay warm in the woods
Jon R.
I seem to collect knives like a rat collects fleas.I think I have tried all the flash knives that
are in my budget range( small).
But the two I have with me for everything hunting,camping or just out and about are these two.
This was made by a friend of mine.A classic Nessmuk.
and the faithful Helle
Mind you I have this one on order but it could go out as a Christmas prezzie if I am not too taken with it.
http://www.blindhorseknives.com/BHK-Bushcrafter.htm
Stay warm in the woods
Jon R.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
This post was a great idea and well done, nice to see the Nessie added. I particularly like the look of the Marbles and a quick scan of the Bay shows that type of knife is very good value too.
Doc, what are the thicknesses of the blades in your OP? I recently bought a 3mm Puuko and it came with a very broad bevel, making the edge very slender. I am interested in how it compares, especially to the Olson blade.
Yeah, agree with both of you.
I find a wooden Mora handle way too small, but the blade is right for the job.
I do think it is what works for you, not just what just what someone guides you to use.
This should be a sticky! Really good idea.
At least Two missing though. Nessmuk, and Lofty Wiseman spring to mind.
You like to live in interesting times my friend.
Could not help but join in, what about the Tom Brown Tracker?
