Second prototype in my search for an ideal knife

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Well here it is:

Keep trying different shapes but always come back to the traditional shape.

Blade is cpm3v plain Stabilized oak handle with a lovely chatoyance, micarta bolster and brass cap screwed into countersunk holes. Tang has a pin through it

CIMG4199.jpg

CIMG4200.jpg

CIMG4198.jpg

CIMG4197.jpg

CIMG4196.jpg

CIMG4195.jpg
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
That design is really coming on! I loved the stabalised burl in the first one (just because it was pretty) but I love watching this develop

More please!!!!
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
I think I would prefer the bolster in brass though.

I agree, at the moment i am not too worried about materials but more the shape of the blade thickness of edge etc. And how well it holds up to a bit of abuse ( i know a knife shouldnt need to ) with the construction i am using. It is really helped by the strength of the stabilized oak.

Thanks a lot for your input!
 

Chris the Cat

Full Member
Jan 29, 2008
2,850
14
Exmoor
What Wayland said!
Nice high and tight grind on that blade,keep up the good work,looking forward to production of the definative model.
My best.
Chris.
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
The bottom one was the first prototype and is a little rough. As you can see they have all been used.

I think the final one will be somewhere in between the top two
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,886
2,138
Mercia
Interesting - my eyes see four main differences between 2 &£

Slight drop to the point (?)
Shorter blade
shallower / finer blade
more pronounced "pommel" swell and more indenation for the little finger to grip

Is that roughly the changes? I'd love to hear the "why" of these changes and which will survive

Red
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Interesting - my eyes see four main differences between 2 &£

Slight drop to the point (?)
Shorter blade
shallower / finer blade
more pronounced "pommel" swell and more indenation for the little finger to grip

Is that roughly the changes? I'd love to hear the "why" of these changes and which will survive

To be honest mate, i made up two different blades, shaped the handles as i went along. The width of the blade dictated the size of the handles.

There wasnt much thought went into the finer details of the shape. I wanted to see which actually worked better for real.

I like the higher grind with a thinner edge but i also like the thinner blade in width so the next one will have a slightly less wide blade and higher bevel.
 

outdoorowain

Full Member
Jan 20, 2009
81
0
41
Lancashire
All three knives look v good.
Can you tell me what wood the top knife handle is made from?
I have a blade that needs a handle but don't know what to put on it.
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
It is made of stabilized elm burr.

I have some for sale if you need some, it's £20 but for stabilized wood that is a bargain. It's good stuff

Or i have some slightly less figured stabilized wood cheaper. Or i have ordinary wood also. if not i reccomend Brisa.fi or the good stuff shop
 

Draven

Native
Jul 8, 2006
1,530
6
35
Scotland
Top one for me I think - but I would love to try this new one. I used to stay clear of wider blades, but since I have a narrow sloyd now, I find the broader blade of my Old Hickory knife to be a joy, so maybe this one would work out better...

Is it a trick of the light, or is the blade on this one slightly leaf-shaped? In the original pictures it looks fairly straight-edged at the base but in the trio pic it looks to have more belly and start by going out slightly, if you get what I mean.

Love the grind - looks like a good one for what I assume is 3mm? The handle shape looks like it'll be a joy to use as well - I'll need to try that on one of my Mora blades!

Pete
 

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