Rusty bits

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
Hi Alan
will do and thanks for the offer!

First thing to do is save up and get some leather! and I thought wool and linen was dear!

Now to find a couple of barrel staves, the clamp looks like a usefull bit of kit.

ATB

Tom
 

Biker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Hi Alan
will do and thanks for the offer!

First thing to do is save up and get some leather! and I thought wool and linen was dear!

Ebay's a pretty good place to start, my mate in the UK nabbed half a side of a cow, suitably tanned of course for about £20! 3mm leather and a light tan finish looked amazing.
Like has already been said elsehwere here at BCUK skinning old leather sofas is a good source too, second hand shops and charity shops often have leather jackets etc in them too for a couple of quid.

As for the saddle clamp, there are a few tutorials I've seen online for making those and they don't include the need for barrel staves. Just a case of thinking outside the box a bit and adpat stuff accordingly.

Good luck!
 

The Ratcatcher

Full Member
Apr 3, 2011
268
0
Manchester, UK
Hi, Tom.

The tools you need depends on what you want to do. One really essential tool is a really good quality stitching awl, or several different sizes of awl for different jobs. I have a saddling awl which I've had for years without having to sharpen it, but it wouldn't be any good for heavy work, because it's not strong enough. If you can find any, white hemp spunyarn is the best material for making your own threads, but I've been trying to find some for years without success. (If you do find a source, please let me know, cos I haven't got much left, and I only use it for special jobs.) You'll also need Beeswax for waxing thread, but other tools depend on what work you're doing.

Alan
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
I'll keep a eye out for spun yarn! I eventually want to do some period shoe making but to start off I think I'll do some pouches and smal stuff like that.

I did get some leather strapping for belts off ebay so yeah I think I'll try there. I'll keep a eye out for sofas to chop up!

I did another batch today

2stbatchcleaned.jpg


No markings on the ones at the top. I hammered the brass thing straight and filed out the worst of the scratche. The youngest son then attacked it with Brasso. The handle was beyond saving but luckily I had a spare the same size put away. No idea what its for.

Being dragged south for the weekend so won't get anymore done until next week.

I did pick up another pair of pliers today thinking they were suitable for turning into more rushlight nips but once I got the worst of the rust off you could see they were hand forged...



ATB

Tom
 
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tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
Cheers!
First off I soaked them in about quart of boiling water with a heaped table spoon of Citric acid powder like you get from brewing shops. As well as degreasing and disolving any rust this has the nasty effect of turning the metal a very dark grey. However what I do removes that surface layer that makes no odds to me.

With these I had to remove mushrooming from them being battered with steel hammers, this I ground off with a bench grinding (cooling repeatedly) then filed back into the correct profile, making sure I left no sharp edges.

Taking care not to go over the cutting edges I then had a good go with a 1 inch wide wire wheel fitted to the bench grinder, thi remover all the black muck and got them to the level of shinyness I wantec.

Where they needed sharpening or chips removing I used a sharpeng stone to flatten any theat needed then copying the original angle of the cutting edge I gently rolled them on the blade of a power file I'd clamped to my bench . The belt is worn so it was easy to control how much I removed and it didn't heat up any to ruin the temper or what everits called.

I then finished off with a fine ceramic rod and where the big wire wheel wouldn't go a small one on a Dremel. Well not quite finished I then gave them a good oiling and rub down with clean rags to remove that.

If theres any woodwork I sand any defects out and remove any varnish etc and then give it a 24hr soak in whats mainly double boiled linseed oil but also contains the dregs of various cans of teak, tung and what ever other wood oil I've used in the last 12 years. I've a big old army rum jar I keep it in and have picked up several old Horlicks mixing glasses which are the ideal size for standing a tool in handle down and then filling till the handles covered. They are heavy glass with a pouring spout which makes it easier to pour it back in the jar. Its not uncommon for the level to drop half a inch over night the wood will absorb so much on a old tool handle.

Which is long winded even for me!

I've policed up what tools (mainly from my sewing box) I think will be useful. The hammer looks like the heads on upside down but the taper in the hole meant it wouldn't be secure if I'd put it on the other way. Its wedged on firm enough. Most bits found in carboots or bargain bins for not a lot.

LTK.jpg
 
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bilmo-p5

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 5, 2010
8,168
10
west yorkshire
You've some grand tools there, Mr Tom, not least those magnificent shears (could do with a pair like that, meself) and the sweet Maun parallel jaw pliers; great for pulling needles through.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
Ta!

I must admit I did pay full wack for the Mauns, i'd got a pair second hand which were indeed great for pulling needles but they had grooves on the jaws so were scratching the needles up so i aked my local hardware shop to get me some smaller smooth jawed jobs.

The shears, well they were 50p with a light all over coatng of rust They cleaned up lovely except for one small area of pitting you can see. I could have got two more but like a moron didn't and when I went back next week the stall wasn't there and the week after they had gone. 13" Wilkinsons 1760 Sheffield. They cut beautifully. Whiteleys are thae same firm but for some reason some are stamped Whitely, some Wilkinsons.

http://www.whiteley.co.uk/catalogue/index.htm

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
Finished the last batch I'm cleaning up

3rdtbatchcleaned.jpg


I had to replace 5 handles, I just used the nearest sized ones I had in stock, the rest just needed sanding and oiling. The roller I had from a previous job lot but I think nits for leather work so cleaned it up with this lot.


Now to get some leather

ATB

Tom
 
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tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
55
Rossendale, Lancashire
Duplicate stamps for sale but its not letting me put them up in the classifieds bit? £2.50 + postage each anyway

stampstosell.jpg


4mm, 6mm, 2 x 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12.5mm, 7/16th", 9/16th" and 3/4".


ATB

Tom
 
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