i've used a frosts knife, the mora for the last 3 years, and am looking for recommendations for a replacement in the £50 ish range? any happy owners of that sort of knife? i'd like a wooden handle, ideally. there seems to be so many out there, some with slightly disparaging names like 'predator' etc that i'm kind of lost, and i'd really benefit from some wisdom. thanks for any help!
recommended knives?
- Thread starter ozymandias
- Start date
This is a bit of a difficult one, but I would suggest either looking at the likes of EKA, Brusletto or checking out the Tregor knives (Lapp Pukko).
Other options include speaking to the guys over on BB and seeing what they can turn up for you or making the knife from its component parts yourself in which case you will need to make up your mind on whether you wanted a stick or full tang knife.
Other options include speaking to the guys over on BB and seeing what they can turn up for you or making the knife from its component parts yourself in which case you will need to make up your mind on whether you wanted a stick or full tang knife.
on further research the knife i've been using is the frosts 780, is the lapplander 90 good? bit expensive for me, but could shop around maybe.
The frosts laplanders are nice little knives, you can buy them blade only as well from a number of different places.
As I said before have a look at Helle knives here or look into EKA Nordic, Fallkniven WM1, Benchmade Rant, Brusletto Profileringskniv, Brusletto Troll, Brusletto Nansen, Brusletto Norron, Ericsson Mora2000, Frosts Clipper, Martini Explorer, all of these are good knives, some are slightly over your budget some fall slap bang in the middle and some are cheap as chips, but all are good knives and quite capable of taking on most tasks in bushcraft.
As I said before have a look at Helle knives here or look into EKA Nordic, Fallkniven WM1, Benchmade Rant, Brusletto Profileringskniv, Brusletto Troll, Brusletto Nansen, Brusletto Norron, Ericsson Mora2000, Frosts Clipper, Martini Explorer, all of these are good knives, some are slightly over your budget some fall slap bang in the middle and some are cheap as chips, but all are good knives and quite capable of taking on most tasks in bushcraft.
If you looking for a cheap knife but one that will last and take a hell of a beating, try ka-bar.
I have their USMC issue
And the impact warthog
Both are solid as hell and in the unlilkey event you break one, they are cheap to replace.
I got my USMC for 60 euro (delivered) and the warthog for 50 euro (delivered)
They have never let me down.
I have their USMC issue
And the impact warthog
Both are solid as hell and in the unlilkey event you break one, they are cheap to replace.
I got my USMC for 60 euro (delivered) and the warthog for 50 euro (delivered)
They have never let me down.
thanks for the advice guys, after reading the articles and threads on handle making i'd love to have a go myself, especially as i can get a lapplander blank for £20. where would you get the wood for a handle and leather for a sheath? also, do you need special tools? i havnt got a bench drill, just a normal one, but i've got all the usual ones people have.
and finally, er, how hard is it? im not a complete doofus but im no woodworking god either. dont want to end up with a rubbish looking thing at the end of it all.
and finally, er, how hard is it? im not a complete doofus but im no woodworking god either. dont want to end up with a rubbish looking thing at the end of it all.
There isa guy on ebay selling knife scales in various woods, and another selling leather for sheathes, or go over to british blades as I'm sure someone over there can help you out.
Ed
EnglishRose, can be found on both here and BB, she sells materials (wood)for making handles/scales.
Also on BB you should be able to find cod12e I think is his username, he also sells wood for scales.
If you have no joy with them try Brisa.
Araldite precision is probably your best bet as far as adhesives are concerned, available from loads of places.
Mosaic pins are a little more difficult and a lot more expensive, although there was a guy over on BB who offered to make some for people.
You could use straight forward pins (barstock) or tube in the same size that you require should be available from model shops.
Abrasives from 50 grit clothbacked through to 2500 grit wet 'n' dry are available from Axminster as are most of the tools that you need.
Tools, a small vice comes in very handy, a rasp / file, hacksaw (junior one for pins or whatever), one drill for making the holes in the scales (a steady hand) and the abrasives and that is about your lot.
Leatherwork tools and the like can be bought from Brisa also as well as leather, but Brisa is quite expensive.
The biggest problem will be drawing up a design that you like for the sheath and then making it work, don't let this put you off when you have got a knife finished in a sheath that you made you will be a very happy man
This is the second one that I made, I was asked to make for a friend
When you have something like that in front of you, you get a bit of a buzz
Also on BB you should be able to find cod12e I think is his username, he also sells wood for scales.
If you have no joy with them try Brisa.
Araldite precision is probably your best bet as far as adhesives are concerned, available from loads of places.
Mosaic pins are a little more difficult and a lot more expensive, although there was a guy over on BB who offered to make some for people.
You could use straight forward pins (barstock) or tube in the same size that you require should be available from model shops.
Abrasives from 50 grit clothbacked through to 2500 grit wet 'n' dry are available from Axminster as are most of the tools that you need.
Tools, a small vice comes in very handy, a rasp / file, hacksaw (junior one for pins or whatever), one drill for making the holes in the scales (a steady hand) and the abrasives and that is about your lot.
Leatherwork tools and the like can be bought from Brisa also as well as leather, but Brisa is quite expensive.
The biggest problem will be drawing up a design that you like for the sheath and then making it work, don't let this put you off when you have got a knife finished in a sheath that you made you will be a very happy man
This is the second one that I made, I was asked to make for a friend
When you have something like that in front of you, you get a bit of a buzz
Have to say I like Ka-Bars myself for the money they are great. For a RM clone knife you would have to make it yourself or pay a lot more than £50.
Geoff
Geoff
does RM mean the ray mears woodlore knife? because i reckon thats the sort i'd like, one with a drop point(?) blade. can anyone recommend a manufacturer for that sort of thing? thanks for all your help so far guys, i'm lining things up to buy now!
really liked this by english rose: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BUSH-CRAFT-KN...oryZ3126QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thought it was an awesome colour.
really liked this by english rose: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BUSH-CRAFT-KN...oryZ3126QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thought it was an awesome colour.
How about this
http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...gi?page=helle/HE-04.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017
Or even this, even cheaper
http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...e/helle_folkekniven.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017
Got one of the Fjellkniven's myself and despite it having a stainless blade it strikes sparks quite well from a fire stick, but you have to roughen the top edge of the blade first, not a bad bit of kit for the money,
Best bet is to have a look at http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/heinnie_store/web_store.cgi, you are bound to find sosmething you like on there, i can spend hours looking at all the shiny things on there
http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...gi?page=helle/HE-04.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017
Or even this, even cheaper
http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...e/helle_folkekniven.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017
Got one of the Fjellkniven's myself and despite it having a stainless blade it strikes sparks quite well from a fire stick, but you have to roughen the top edge of the blade first, not a bad bit of kit for the money,
Best bet is to have a look at http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/heinnie_store/web_store.cgi, you are bound to find sosmething you like on there, i can spend hours looking at all the shiny things on there
right, i reckon i'm going to get a frosts lapplander 90, as i've always enjoyed using my cheap as chips mora, and some blanks off english rose. can i just glue the grip on or should i use the holes to put some brass pins in?
but anyway, thanks to everyone who has replied as i would have been totally lost without the advice you have given me. may post a pic of the finished article if it's not to awful!
but anyway, thanks to everyone who has replied as i would have been totally lost without the advice you have given me. may post a pic of the finished article if it's not to awful!
The Karesuando Boar is a nice knife, available for £34 here:
http://www.jls-wednesbury.com/default.asp/pages/p.5977/ecombuilder.html
http://www.jls-wednesbury.com/default.asp/pages/p.5977/ecombuilder.html
ozymandias said:
Pins will add a little strength to it if the scales take a bash longitudinally, rivets will hold the scales in place, bolts are probably best (corby or lovless), but a lot more difficult to get hold of.
In the long run the adhesive will be the thing holding the scales in place on a knife which hasa pins (mosaic or solid) and most of todays epoxy resins are very very strong, however all epoxy degrades with exposure to heat, IIRC ~ 70'C, so that is something to bear in mind.
That being said if the tang and the scales of your knife are hitting 70 degrees then there is something wrong.
I think the Lapplander is a great choice! These are nice blades. I'm partial to the 115 version. The fully completed version sold by Frosts has a huge brass bolster which makes it kinda heavy and bulky but a nice pair of light scales on it can make it quite nimble to handle.
I made up a knife from the Frosts 90 using buffalo horn slabs scales from Attleborough Acessories.
It turned out quite nice (by my standards) but for some reason I don't really like using it but it is perfectly servicable and cheap (blade less than £20).
The Knife seems to slide off things more than cut into them and is really too thick for food prep.
It turned out quite nice (by my standards) but for some reason I don't really like using it but it is perfectly servicable and cheap (blade less than £20).
The Knife seems to slide off things more than cut into them and is really too thick for food prep.
he's not makeing right now but ben orford on the wood smoke site makes a RM copy £165 called a woodlander RM'S your talking £500 now if i paid that much for a knife it would just get looked at! i know it's over £50 but for a hand made knife £165 is good going i've got one took about 8 week to get it but boy dos it cut!!
steven andrews said:The Karesuando Boar is a nice knife, available for £34 here:
http://www.jls-wednesbury.com/default.asp/pages/p.5977/ecombuilder.html
I'm in love with that knife! How does it perform?
Ill probably be shot down in flames for this but last year I replaced a light carbon steel sheath knife with a Walther La Chasse stainless hunter (http://www.carl-walther.de/englisch/accessories/accessories-73.html last item). It wasnt what I was looking for; in particular it has a rubber handle and a curved back. I try to have an open mind in all things and considered it it felt right when I handled it. Now I havent used it out and about, just a bit of practice at home. It had no trouble splitting 5cm green ash (by battening), which is about the heaviest thing I want a knife to do and the rubber handle does seem to give a better grip in the wet.
Its quite heavy at just shy of 200g. Has a 12 cm blade and a Cordura sheath with a retaining strap for the knife. It was priced at £25 (reduced from £35).
Im well pleased with it but traditional it is not.
Its quite heavy at just shy of 200g. Has a 12 cm blade and a Cordura sheath with a retaining strap for the knife. It was priced at £25 (reduced from £35).
Im well pleased with it but traditional it is not.
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