The TBS Boar is a fairly thick blade with a Scandi grind. It is therefore not a good choice for butchering small game. K720 is not a steel with high wear resistance (equivalent to O2, which for this discussion isn't significantly different from O1), there are many blade steels that would be far more time consuming to grind nicks out of. The problem is the single bevel which means that removing a nick requires a lot of metal to be removed.
240 grit is going to take a long time. For that sort of work you want 120 grit, 180 at the finest, premium bonded sand paper, not wet and dry, something made by 3M or Norton, but Wickes did some good stuff once (this is for UK based folk, no idea what you can get elsewhere). Masking tape, double sided tape and a flat surface, which could just be flat MDF. Stick down masking tape, stick down double sided, stick down abrasive paper. Get grinding, remove paper when it stops cutting and repeat. Masking tape will come off the base far easier than double sided will. It will make a nasty noise, that tells you you are cutting metal.
Don't change the bevel angle since that knife is meant for wood cutting and you will make it much less good for that if you steepen the bevel to more than 30 degrees. Instead, get yourself something else, cheap, to butcher game with. It could be a Mora, which has a single bevel, but you can convex them easily, or put a secondary bevel on, both of which make them easier to maintain.
I have used a cleaver to remove rabbit feet and head, but I find it far better to cut around the joints and break them than smash through the bone, which often results in bone shards winding up in my stew. The knife that is used is going to come into contact with bone, not to cut through the bone, but cutting tendons against it, so it will require sharpening. A flat grind, or shallow convex, will sharpen up much more easily and quicker than a fat Scandi. If you must cut bone, then a cheap heavy blade will do the job.
Good luck
Chris
