plans for wood burning stove from a gas bottle ?
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rapidboy said:
Hi Rapidboy,
It is on my website (check my profile) and look at the gas bottle stove link...Also available at http://www.itsnoteasybeinggreen.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2026&highlight=gas+bottle
LS
Have you used one inside ?
How did the door seal work out ? and how did you attach it ?
Looks really good.
I have a couple of cylinders so i can cut oversized doors from the second one but i can't work out how to attach a seal.
How did the door seal work out ? and how did you attach it ?
Looks really good.
I have a couple of cylinders so i can cut oversized doors from the second one but i can't work out how to attach a seal.
I used a fibreglass cord on the one stove and wired it to the bottle with copper wire, have to drill some small holes to stitch the wire through though...Tried a fireproof silicone but that cracked and failed...Only used it in the camp shelter, used 100mm spiral duct for flue and fibreglass rope for the seal between flue spigot and flue pipe...
Have a word with Red, he has lit it a couple of times so knows how well it works.
LS
Have a word with Red, he has lit it a couple of times so knows how well it works.
LS
I just read a good article here. If you can get ahold of the latest Backwoodsman Magazine Feb-March 2007 there is a great article in it on how to build a woodstove from two propane bottles.
Hawk
Hawk
ludlowsurvivors said:
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rapidboy said:
Hi RB
To get a good seal I run two parallel beads of weld metal around the outside of the door opening to make a channel that the stove rope can be glued inside. Use 10mm stove rope and the door will seal down nice and tight against it.
Alternatively you could run the beads on the inside of the door.
George
I have had one of these in my wooden shed for about 6 years and they work very well. Mine has no seal on the door and a clever sliding mechanism in the lower half to control the air flow. You can also run it with the door open. I didn't make it but bought it from a guy on the west coast of Scotland who make dozons of them from condemned calor gas cylinders. The valve at the top has been removed and a 9 inch long 4 inch diameter piece of steel pipe welded on. The flue pipe site over this. The floor for the fire is in the form of a steel plate which has heen inserted by first cutting the cylinder in half then welding it together again. The plate has had 1 inch holes drilled over it so that the ash drops through. 3 short legs have been welded to the bottom to raise it off the ground. Hope this info. heplsrapidboy said:
rapidboy said:You havent seen my welding George
Beads are not on the cards never mind parallel beads
What do you use to you glue the rope in place ?
There's a high temp glue that stove shops sell - can't recall the name of it, but these guys sell it http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/fire_rope.htm
George
Thanks for the info has set me going into having a go at one , however i have now looked more closley and realise that you need two bottles as you cut the doors oversize from the second ? have you found one design better than the others ie one has two doors the other one what is the cheapest option for the chimmley as the local steel yard wants £40 for 4.5ins dia X3mtr length having found a 19kg bottle is the 15kg the same diameter ? just shorter as it may be easier to find sorry for all the questions but thought i would learn from your experience
ilan said:
I used some spiral duct for mine, about £10 for a 3 mtr length and a bend which is about £6. for the doors I found some 3mm steel plate useful.
LS
Dont know but will give it a try in the next couple of days once i sort out the plans need to find another propane bottle tho as i am not happy about drilling into a gas bottle
However with the red ones they have an on/off valve and i managed to refill mine with water so it cannot go bang !! looking on the net i think the plans may be able to be modified so with a spare cyl with the dome at the bottom of the scrap one cut in half it could be used as a baffle plate in the stove fixed just below the outlet pipe to force the air forward so the hot air is in the fire box longer and give a more even heat to the out side . ilan
However with the red ones they have an on/off valve and i managed to refill mine with water so it cannot go bang !! looking on the net i think the plans may be able to be modified so with a spare cyl with the dome at the bottom of the scrap one cut in half it could be used as a baffle plate in the stove fixed just below the outlet pipe to force the air forward so the hot air is in the fire box longer and give a more even heat to the out side . ilan
I think you also have to be very wairy of residual gas and condensates in the old cylinder, especially of yoi are introducing a flame to the thing. Could be a very nasty accident.
rapidboy said:
Can't say I have measured the one I have drilled into exactly but it won't be thicker than about 3mm.
A jigsaw is capable of cutting that but to be honest its a pain in the backside to do (if the Jigsaw has a pendulum action make sure to switch it off before cutting metal) and a small grinder with one of the very thin cutting discs would be a better bet for the straight cuts.
Also you don't need to cut the cylinder in half to get the fire grate into it if you cut the grate in half and reassemble it inside the stove.
Depends which is simpler and how thick the grate is I suppose.
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