Pine resin
- Thread starter Wolfie
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check a number of pine trees and you should find some which has oozed out through cuts in the trunk and branches and solidified.. if your looking to collect some in the future you could make small cuts in the trees and give it a few months.
bambodoggy
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
We have heaps by us!!!
You can tap it by cutting the bark (just a small cut and not all the way round the tree) and leaving it for a day or so and then just breaking off the solidified lumps of it that ooze out and dry white and powery...
Or....better still, find a pine tree (or two or three) that is already damaged from animals, lightning stick, wind damage etc and just break off the lumps from that where it oozes out....
enjoy.... :wave:
You can tap it by cutting the bark (just a small cut and not all the way round the tree) and leaving it for a day or so and then just breaking off the solidified lumps of it that ooze out and dry white and powery...
Or....better still, find a pine tree (or two or three) that is already damaged from animals, lightning stick, wind damage etc and just break off the lumps from that where it oozes out....
enjoy.... :wave:
bambodoggy
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Depends what you're going to do with it....I've never purified it myself.
If you're going to use it for flame torches then just use it as it is, stick a lump in the top of a split stick and light it.... (careful of those sparks!).
If you're going to make glue out of it then melt it on a rock with the glowing ember end of a log from the fire and mix in a little charcoal from the fire to reduce how brittle it is....then use straight away before it sets....
:wave:
If you're going to use it for flame torches then just use it as it is, stick a lump in the top of a split stick and light it.... (careful of those sparks!).
If you're going to make glue out of it then melt it on a rock with the glowing ember end of a log from the fire and mix in a little charcoal from the fire to reduce how brittle it is....then use straight away before it sets....
:wave:
Cheers Bambodoggy... :biggthump
I was hoping to get enough and try and make it into a block so that I had some to put in my posssibles pouch for whenever and whatever I could use it for. Presumably it would have to be stored in something to stop it getting everywhere.
I was hoping to get enough and try and make it into a block so that I had some to put in my posssibles pouch for whenever and whatever I could use it for. Presumably it would have to be stored in something to stop it getting everywhere.
Casting an ingot of pine would be possible, the only problem would be getting out of the mould. You could either refine it and cast it that way into a sacraficial mould, or make a metal (tinfoil) and compress the found lumps of resin into it and melt it over a flame, the njust peel the foil off to leave the ingot.
Good thinking CD. :biggthump Do you think it will stay sticky after that or will it go hard as it is on the tree?:?:
I made a stick of pine pitch / charcoal for field archery repairs by pouring the hot mixture into a rolled paper tube about the diameter of my finger. Simply peel away the paper after its cooled.
hootchi said:
I would imagine, that it would retain some of the stickyness as it does on the tree, and be fairly hard, but and its a big 1, it would be very brittle in its refined form.
I make sticks of it by rolling a thin twig in the warm resin/charcoal powder mix. if you keep rolling it you can build up layers until you have something about the size of a large olive on the end of a twig. That amount is easily enough to use for lighting a fire or to re-melt if you need glue for something. If you get the charcoal/resin mix right it dries without staying sticky. If its still a bit tacky after a day or so of drying then roll it in white wood ash - that sticks to the outside and takes the "tack" off it.
George
George
Jeff Wagner said:
I'm going to have a go at this but I've made some little birch bark paper tubes and I'll pour into that. I was going to use the little tubes for holding ointments, etc.
Toddy
I've never had to damage a tree to get resin, I can normally find one with a few cuts and scrapes..... (or great big missed chainsaw cuts that ooze loads of resin.....) On a forage yesterday I collected a lump the size of a golf ball in about 5 mins.
Has anyone tried using a wax in with their glue mix?
Ed
Has anyone tried using a wax in with their glue mix?
Ed
Is it only pine that resin can be collected from? ie of pinus with two or more needles from the base bud type thing. ): Thats one of the ways I check when I make pine needle tea.
Can other trees be used? :?:
): Thats one of the ways I check when I make pine needle tea.Can other trees be used? :?:
Any resin bearing tree ought to do the trick. I've resin got out of leyland cypress before but it doesn't set well. Larch resin is way too liquid aparently - it's bordering on being neat hexane.
I drop my resin onto a lightly oiled plate - you get nice easy to handle drops of the stuff that way.
It makes a really good polish if you mix it in equal proportions with bees wax and turpentine and a decent varnish if you mix it just with the turps.
As for making a glue, boiling the resin with beeswax makes a nice hard setting substance that can be used for hafting things, securing the ends of twine etc etc. Just heat it to smoking point and hold it there for a minute before straining out the junk. Needless to say this could be dangerous, I use a metal can and just drop the lid on if it catches fire.
the stuff sticks to skin extremely well when hot and will take the skin with it when you try to get it off.
Realgar
I drop my resin onto a lightly oiled plate - you get nice easy to handle drops of the stuff that way.
It makes a really good polish if you mix it in equal proportions with bees wax and turpentine and a decent varnish if you mix it just with the turps.
As for making a glue, boiling the resin with beeswax makes a nice hard setting substance that can be used for hafting things, securing the ends of twine etc etc. Just heat it to smoking point and hold it there for a minute before straining out the junk. Needless to say this could be dangerous, I use a metal can and just drop the lid on if it catches fire.
the stuff sticks to skin extremely well when hot and will take the skin with it when you try to get it off.
Realgar
I have used the resin from cherry trees plenty of times.
It is more a water soluble glue. I boil the solid resin chunks in water until dissolved and the consistency i want. It makes a great glue for fletching bush arrows and the like.
On tricky projects where pine resin goes off too quick I have used cherry first as a sort of tacking glue. when its all dry and held in place if you want you can add a layer of pine pitch on top to water proof. strong stuff.
It is more a water soluble glue. I boil the solid resin chunks in water until dissolved and the consistency i want. It makes a great glue for fletching bush arrows and the like.
On tricky projects where pine resin goes off too quick I have used cherry first as a sort of tacking glue. when its all dry and held in place if you want you can add a layer of pine pitch on top to water proof. strong stuff.
I boiled up the bark of cherry for dye and managed to fumigate the kitchen, it gives off cyanide......if you smell bitter almonds :?:
I didn't know about the resin, is it seasonal? I prune my trees quite often and have never noticed any.
Toddy
I didn't know about the resin, is it seasonal? I prune my trees quite often and have never noticed any.
Toddy
I find loads of cherry gum on the trees on the way to work - mosty often around lopped branches. I think it's seasonal only in the sense that the sap doesn't rise during the winter so no gum will form but the stuff hands around on the trees for as long as I've cared to keep an eye on it.
Realgar
Realgar
