Slippery fabrics are apparently difficult to stich, I have a recollection that I have seen sailmakers use double sided tape in some cases. I think a sailmaker doing spinnakers would know what to do.
Ripstop Nylon
- Thread starter Dan00001
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
We call it 'ripstop nylon' but it's often polyester. The criss crossing threads can be either.
Polyester fabric and polyester threads are commonplace
Nylon not so much these days.
Nylon thread is harder to find in fine weights. It's fairly easy to get hold of in a weight suitable for webbing, canvas, etc.,
So, OP got hold of 10m of ripstop fabric to have a go at making stuff....big thumbs up there
It wasn't expensive, it's a trial and see how he gets on with the stuff, so minimise expense. Make up some useful stuff, see how it works out for him
Sewing it, use a fine needle, make supported seams (folded over while minimising bulk without losing integrity) use a polyester or nylon thread.
If the sewing machine goes, chug, chug, chug, and makes punching sort of noises, then the needle's too thick. Go finer, and go a little slower. Be patient, it's worth it in the long run.
Zig zag stitches spread the load, but they make a messy, messy seam....and they can pucker like a pie crimp.
If you're not intending to swing down from the heavens on it, then keep it simple and it'll do fine
Incidentally, you can hot knife cut the stuff too. That seals the edges a bit as well. It's how the fabric is often cut in factories.
It takes fabsil, and if you use it above a birch fire, then birch tar quite happily 'bonds' to it, and makes it heavily showerproof....if you need to wash that out then biological washing liquid works.
Polyester fabric and polyester threads are commonplace
Nylon not so much these days.
Nylon thread is harder to find in fine weights. It's fairly easy to get hold of in a weight suitable for webbing, canvas, etc.,
So, OP got hold of 10m of ripstop fabric to have a go at making stuff....big thumbs up there
It wasn't expensive, it's a trial and see how he gets on with the stuff, so minimise expense. Make up some useful stuff, see how it works out for him
Sewing it, use a fine needle, make supported seams (folded over while minimising bulk without losing integrity) use a polyester or nylon thread.
If the sewing machine goes, chug, chug, chug, and makes punching sort of noises, then the needle's too thick. Go finer, and go a little slower. Be patient, it's worth it in the long run.
Zig zag stitches spread the load, but they make a messy, messy seam....and they can pucker like a pie crimp.
If you're not intending to swing down from the heavens on it, then keep it simple and it'll do fine
Incidentally, you can hot knife cut the stuff too. That seals the edges a bit as well. It's how the fabric is often cut in factories.
It takes fabsil, and if you use it above a birch fire, then birch tar quite happily 'bonds' to it, and makes it heavily showerproof....if you need to wash that out then biological washing liquid works.
I would say that this is a case where this advice is right for parachutes, old and new, but in the pantheon of things one can do to mess up a MYOG project, it rates way down the list. So far down the list that even people with hundreds of projects under their belts, and those who make a living selling tarps and hammocks, don't bother. Even tarps are not high strain the way that parachutes are.
Chris
Thank you for all the advice. I have little interest in making anything like a hammock. My main requirement is bergen/pocket liners (waterproof) and pouches that I can make custom sizes for any bits of equipment, mainly simple drawstring style.
I've had another go at sewing the material and really not enjoying it...
The material puckers up , which is not the end of the world.
I'm finding it difficult to keep the material sewing straight, it just wants to wander off, Would I be right in thinking this is where a walking foot would come in handy?
Once or twice, the material pushed down through the hole where the needle goes getting all tangled up, I guess this is because I need a finer needle?
I am trying to keep my seams around 10mm and sewing close to the edge which might also be a bit on the small side for this material?
I've had another go at sewing the material and really not enjoying it...
The material puckers up , which is not the end of the world.
I'm finding it difficult to keep the material sewing straight, it just wants to wander off, Would I be right in thinking this is where a walking foot would come in handy?
Once or twice, the material pushed down through the hole where the needle goes getting all tangled up, I guess this is because I need a finer needle?
I am trying to keep my seams around 10mm and sewing close to the edge which might also be a bit on the small side for this material?
Finer needle and try changing your machine tension.
Also, you can sew through paper to give your presser foot a kind of grip on the fabric, and the paper will just tear off afterwards. Newspaper's very easy to use for it. Tissue is a mess, kitchen towel is a mess, printer paper's hard going.
I find that sewing ripstop needs me to actually keep the seam taut while I sew. So, I have one hand, behind the needle, not pulling the fabric through as such, but I've definitely got tension on it, and the other hand guiding it under the needle.
Play around with some scraps, change the tension and the stitch length, etc. try paper, and the like, you'll find a way that works.
I found it frustrating at first, and then I got tidy with it.
If you are having difficulty starting the seam neatly, if the machine sort of packs the fabric down into the bobbin case under the needle and snarls up, then cut a small piece of something like denim, or simple cotton, a bit maybe an inch wide and a couple long....start your sewing on that and while it's still under the needle present the edge of your ripstop right up to it. These little bits of fabric are usually called thread savers these days, but we called them snippits when I was young and learning to sew. They let the machine start your seam without packing the ripstop, or other fine fabric, downwards, let the feed dogs get a grip and it gives you something to grasp on the other side of the needle to help keep the ripstop taut as you work.
M
Also, you can sew through paper to give your presser foot a kind of grip on the fabric, and the paper will just tear off afterwards. Newspaper's very easy to use for it. Tissue is a mess, kitchen towel is a mess, printer paper's hard going.
I find that sewing ripstop needs me to actually keep the seam taut while I sew. So, I have one hand, behind the needle, not pulling the fabric through as such, but I've definitely got tension on it, and the other hand guiding it under the needle.
Play around with some scraps, change the tension and the stitch length, etc. try paper, and the like, you'll find a way that works.
I found it frustrating at first, and then I got tidy with it.
If you are having difficulty starting the seam neatly, if the machine sort of packs the fabric down into the bobbin case under the needle and snarls up, then cut a small piece of something like denim, or simple cotton, a bit maybe an inch wide and a couple long....start your sewing on that and while it's still under the needle present the edge of your ripstop right up to it. These little bits of fabric are usually called thread savers these days, but we called them snippits when I was young and learning to sew. They let the machine start your seam without packing the ripstop, or other fine fabric, downwards, let the feed dogs get a grip and it gives you something to grasp on the other side of the needle to help keep the ripstop taut as you work.
M
During the second world war it was common for service men to "liberate" parachute silk and send it to their wives to make underwear from. My mum was not best pleased when my dad sent her some: it was camouflage pattern! I've found it useful over the years for various bushcraft purposes and sti!l have a small bit left.
A ancestral relative of mine had a wedding dress made out of parachute material but I’m pretty sure s that it was silk.
There is a totally unsupported legend that someone in my family was a member of the Silkworm club - they had jumped from a failing aircraft.
As to ripstop, the advice is the same.
Practice and persevere. It is possible.
There is a totally unsupported legend that someone in my family was a member of the Silkworm club - they had jumped from a failing aircraft.
As to ripstop, the advice is the same.
Practice and persevere. It is possible.
10mm seam should be fine. Small would be trying for 6mm.
As Toddly says, you cannot rely on the feed dogs to move the fabric under the foot without help. You need to keep a hand on on your side of the foot and another at the back and keep the fabric tight as it comes out from the foot.
A PTFE foot can help. I use one on slippery fabric.
I tried wrapping tissue paper, per Jellyfish advice from YouTube, and while it helped with feeding (paper goes under the fabric), I didn’t like how little bits of paper stayed trapped in the stitches when it was torn free. Didn’t try newspaper.
A walking foot might help, but getting after market feet to work can be hit and miss. I bought one that was advertised as suitable for the machine I have, but it wouldn’t fit/work correctly And had to be sent back. I manage all I need without, so it can be done.
Uncoated parachute ripstop is DEFINITELY not suitable for waterproof pack liners.
I would recommend putting this fabric aside and buying some coated fabric to start with. If it advertises a hydrostatic head it will be much more suitable for pack liners and the coating will make it much easier to sew. Some thing like one of these.
SILICONE COATED RIPSTOP
black, ripstop, nylon silnylon, fabric, lightweight, material, water resistant, silicone, tear resistant,
www.profabrics.co.uk
WATERPROOF RIPSTOP NYLON PU COATED
ripstop, nylon, coated, water resistant, waterproof, fabric, light weight, light, bright, colour, sticky wall, bunting, flysheet,
www.profabrics.co.uk
High Density Nylon Waterproof Ripstop
*Your order will be sent as your full chosen length where possible*Width: 150cm Composition: 100% Nylon Weight: 80gsm Thickness: 0.09mm
ukfabricsonline.com
I am wary about stating things as absolutes, but my experience has been that if one wants really light weight waterproof fabric (35-55gsm) it must be imported from Europe or the US.
Extremtextil in Germany has good stuff, but has a 160Euro minimum order. Not hard if you have several projects like tarps and quilts to do, but prohibitive if you are just playing around.
Ripstopbytheroll in the US is excellent and good prices, but ship by FedEx and you will get hit with VAT and charges.
Dutchwaregear is similar to RSBTR, but less choice in fabric, more in hammock gear.
Between the latter two I have had something like 60yds of sil poly and a similar quantity of other fabrics. I decided that my time was the most valuable thing I have and I didn’t want to spend it trying to sew impressively light tarps etc using less than impressive materials. I have used the Point North silicone Nylon to make packs, pockets and compression sacks, but would not use for a tarp, not light enough, and maybe not waterproof enough.
Chris
Sailmaker here. Yes we do use double sided tape but usually for sail material not spinnakers, (it doesn’t stick to some rip stop anyway)
these are usually sewn on a 3 step machine. This takes 3steps in a zigzag stitch. Never sewn in straight stitch.
Sail material is heat cut but not spinnaker material. Don’t need to as you are folding the seam.
We use 69 thread. 100 needles.
Tension not to tight, hold the seam fore and aft.
My experience with Ripstop is the material is mostly bomb proof however the seams are an issue and worth over doing. It has a massive advantage over standard nylon in that it stops those annoyingly easy rips.This material is not a pleasure to handle nor work with. It's such a lightweight material. I had no idea what parachute material would be like, but I assumed it would have been a heavier weight than what it is.
I'm going to use this little pouch, that I quickly made, for a while to see just how durable this material actually is.
Thank you, everyone. I haven't given up on the ripstop. I think I'll forget the idea of using it for liners/dry bags but I think it will make great possibles pouches etc.
I should add that I made up shade screens with some years ago, and they were/are excellent.
They're showerproof-ish, but a lot better having been fabsiled. Unproofed though they made really good weather baffles. Didn't stop the wind dead, just slowed it down enough to be comfortable while providing privacy.
It was a lot of fabric for I think it was £12 when I bought it, but that was years ago.
M
They're showerproof-ish, but a lot better having been fabsiled. Unproofed though they made really good weather baffles. Didn't stop the wind dead, just slowed it down enough to be comfortable while providing privacy.
It was a lot of fabric for I think it was £12 when I bought it, but that was years ago.
M
What did you use the shade/wind screens for? Whilst out camping or for other purposes?
I had a third attempt this evening, this came out much better than my second attempt. I made sure to keep some tension on the material as much a possible. Easier said than done when back stitching near an edge.
I had a third attempt this evening, this came out much better than my second attempt. I made sure to keep some tension on the material as much a possible. Easier said than done when back stitching near an edge.
What did you use the shade/wind screens for? Whilst out camping or for other purposes?
I had a third attempt this evening, this came out much better than my second attempt. I made sure to keep some tension on the material as much a possible. Easier said than done when back stitching near an edge.
I think that looks very tidy
and sound too.If you knot the threads you don't need to backstitch. Just knot the threads together and cut them close. They'll be hidden inside the seam anyway for the most part.
I used the ripstop to make shade panels for the garden (fair skin, I burn) but found them handy when camping too... I have a parachute, and the ripstop created walls that baffled the wind enough to make it comfortable underneath.
I worked an event where we built shelters and dens with mixed ability children, the ripstop is brilliant for stuff like that
Make three or four A frames, let the kids lash them together and make a teepee sort of shape. Some of those panels we criss crossed with cordage and let the kids fill in weaving with grass. Others we just wrapped with the ripstop.
Kids loved it, it was a fun week all round.
One of the children was non verbal, could barely see, would never walk, and he was entranced playing with the grasses, the rushes and willows. Once we had one built while others could get into the 'den' he couldn't. So, we lifted him out of his wheelchair and took him inside to lie among the rushes under the fabric. That bairn could barely say a word, but oh he smiled, and his Mum cried, and we were in tears with her. He was so absolutely enthralled with the whole being outdoors, being in that place and space. We gave his Mum a big bit of the ripstop so they could play dens at home.
I think every child should get a chance to build dens, play outdoors, lie under shade in the sunshine, under trees, feel the wind, know what rushes and grasses and leaves feel like, smell like, can be used to make.
