New knife.

[Trunks]

Hi all,

A few years ago i commissioned Stu Mitchell to make me a knife (see pics). It was based on a Stu Barker design & i loved it - but sadly had to sell it on.

I cant sing Stu M's priases high enough, the knife was a beauty, but after prolonged usage there were a few things i though i would change if i were to do it all again:

1. I couldn't get on with sharpening the convex grind with secondary bevel.

2. I regretted asking for the ferro grove cutting in the choil of the blade.

3. The handle was not quite long enough for my large hands

So, inspired by Jonathan D, i am redesigning "my" perfect knife. But not being able to afford the amount of prototyping it might take, i though i would open the designs up to your scrutiny :yikes:

Design:

1. Is the original design with the handle extended & with the ferro striker removed.

This design feel great in the hand when cutting, but when cutting backwards across the chest (power cut?) it is not too comfortable because of the forefinger indent.

2. Is the same as (1) but with the finger indent removed.

3. Is like (2), but has a thinner handle and has had the blade height reduced.

I would prefer to have a scandi grind to zero on this knife but realistically, how high up the blade can you take it?

Thanks in advance, Ok, fire away

 

[JonathanD]

I like the first two.

Stu's high scandi grind sounds like something you might want to look into. Very easy to look after with an option for a micro bevel. My main user has got this grind on it and after a year of good use, I've done nothing except run it down a Spyderco Sharpmaker a couple of times. Dead easy to maintain and tougher than a zero scandi.

 

[mclark]

i like the first one , it looks very stylish and functional

 

[Trunks]

Thanks for the replies chaps

Jonathan, any chance you could post picture of that grind?

Thanks also for the PM on BB, I have seen pics if your knife with a full flat - how does it perform up against the high scandi for the basic camp tasks etc?

Thanks

 

[British Red]

I like the third one

I'd like the second a lot if the top edge was slightly upswept rather than square.....looks curiously chopped off somehow

 

[Trunks]

I see what you mean Red. I think it is just the way I placed these templates on the scanner

When it's held in the hand, the angle of the top edge does slope up to the thumb ramp - but I might look again at changing the angles more.

Thanks for the ideas

 

[British Red]

was thinking of a slight curve in the top edge mirroring the curve on the bottom

It might look - Trunkated otherwise

 

[JonathanD]

Thanks for the replies chaps

Jonathan, any chance you could post picture of that grind?

Thanks also for the PM on BB, I have seen pics if your knife with a full flat - how does it perform up against the high scandi for the basic camp tasks etc?


Thanks

Check out the antler and carbon fibre knife pictures here... http://devalbushcrafter.webeden.co.uk/#/variations/4545961781 That will show you the high scandi.

For me, the full flat out performs the scandi in almost everyway, and especially slicing, be it branches or food.

 

[Trunks]

I have tinkered with the design a bit:

Option 1

Option 2

Jonathan, i like the look of the full flat, but am unsure how easy it would be to take to the top of a sweeping top edge with thumb ramp. Do you know if Stu Mitchell is a member on here? If he is i'll PM him a link and also start the ball rolling by email - i think i'm getting closer

Red, i now see what you meant by the sweeping top edge, i have done so on the above sketches & think it looks much better - thanks

In the sketches above i have imagined a high scandi grind with a secondary bevel - what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks again

 

[mcniac]

you could try making a few wooden knives so you can actually handle the knife before asking someone to make it

 

[JonathanD]

Trust me, the full flat will be able to flow with your thumb ramp very well.....

Stu is a member here. I will send him the link to the thread.

 

[FGYT]

I have tinkered with the design a bit:

Option 1

Option 2

Jonathan, i like the look of the full flat, but am unsure how easy it would be to take to the top of a sweeping top edge with thumb ramp. Do you know if Stu Mitchell is a member on here? If he is i'll PM him a link and also start the ball rolling by email - i think i'm getting closer

Red, i now see what you meant by the sweeping top edge, i have done so on the above sketches & think it looks much better - thanks

In the sketches above i have imagined a high scandi grind with a secondary bevel - what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks again

on the full flat you just angle the grind plunge past the thumb ramp

on your drawings unless your distal tapering the tips your running the grind line out to fast or have you diliberatly changed the angle giving a very stout point

what sort of thickness are you thinking off ?? im biased ot 5-6mm but full flat and taper tang cos its pretty and gives a good width to the thumb ramp part

ATB

Duncan

 

[JonathanD]

I'm with Duncan on 5-6mm full flat. The thumb ramp will be sweet with that and the blade very robust yet versatile. A tapered tang is a must I would have thought.

I've sent Stu the link, so you should get all the info you need soon.

 

[stuart m]

Hi James, I'll help if I'm able mate, what would you like to know...?

 

[British Red]

Go to bed Stu

Not what I meant as it happens Trunks - but it looks nice. I don't know why, but I would curve the blade top edge the other way

I'll try to do an illustration when I have time

Red

 

[British Red]

Here we go - I meant raise the tip a little - a slightly radical and skinner type design - but its the same knife with more steel and a raised point although it looks slimmer


blade curve by British Red, on Flickr

 

[JonathanD]

Here we go - I meant raise the tip a little - a slightly radical and skinner type design - but its the same knife with more steel and a raised point although it looks slimmer


blade curve by British Red, on Flickr

I like the downswept design Red. For me upswept blades reduce the usefullness considerably. Apart from skinning, how do you use that last 1/3rd?

I personally think these blade profiles are more effective bushcrafter wise....

 

[British Red]

Depends what you are doing Jon. A long sweeping curve bites well, extending the tip gives a sharper point. In reality if you overlay that design, very little is changed other than a tip extension and longer cutting edge.

I guess comparing our current knives show a diffence in taste and use - thats fine though. I like a finer, more slicing oriented design - but I use an axe for impact cutting

 

[Trunks]

Hi James, I'll help if I'm able mate, what would you like to know...?

Hi Stu,
Sorry I've done this **** about face - as they say. I should have contacted you first
At the moment I'm trying to play through as many ideas as possible - before I settle on a final design.
Looking at different grinds and shapes - all based on the last knife you made for me.
I would appreciate your comments on the practicalities of my designs and your opinions on what will work best - not much then
Cheers

 

[Trunks]

Here we go - I meant raise the tip a little - a slightly radical and skinner type design - but its the same knife with more steel and a raised point although it looks slimmer


blade curve by British Red, on Flickr

Thanks Red,
Trust me to get it the wrong way round
I get what you mean about the skinner & like the Scimitar shape that it takes on, but personally I think I like it the other way round.
I'm not going to discount anything at the moment though & will cut out a template to play with