Nessmuk blades, run of 20.
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Could i have No 18 please.
1. Mic201m (bb)
2. Stonecutter (bb)
3. Gorilla
4. Jeroboam
5. Xavierdoc
6. Geoff88
7. Darsoth
8. Jacko
9. Paul Hardwick
10. Pothunter
11. Toots
12. Hattie
13. ilovemybed
14. Davymoore
15. Harlequin
16.
17.
18.Dingo
19.
20. Bushcraft4life
Adam.
1. Mic201m (bb)
2. Stonecutter (bb)
3. Gorilla
4. Jeroboam
5. Xavierdoc
6. Geoff88
7. Darsoth
8. Jacko
9. Paul Hardwick
10. Pothunter
11. Toots
12. Hattie
13. ilovemybed
14. Davymoore
15. Harlequin
16.
17.
18.Dingo
19.
20. Bushcraft4life
Adam.
SimonM
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The prototype in the photo below will be made in to a full knife but no others for the time being i dont think.
I was thinking about Micarta myself as i have never worked with it before, how is it to work with?
its quite dense so can be tough to work, i normally rough shape with 80 grit then go to 120 and work it down to around 1000 or more depending on the finish i want, if you use a belt sander to shape it wear a dust mask is the dust will get ever where plus t doesn't taste very nice 
How many grades do you go through inbetween 120 to a 1000? and roughly how long do you stay on each grade?
Also, are you going to do all the sanding by hand?
Sorry for the questions Stu
but i haven't worked with it yet and would like to know what i am letting myself in for, i would like to compliment this blade with something special
Also, are you going to do all the sanding by hand?
Sorry for the questions Stu
but i haven't worked with it yet and would like to know what i am letting myself in for, i would like to compliment this blade with something special OK, from when the scales are glued and pinned in place i will take the scale material down to the tang shape on the belt sander but this can also be done by hand with files.
Then the 80 grit by hand , the best way to shape the handle's is to cut your sandpaper in the strips of about 1" by 12" and then clamp the blade your work bench with a G-clamp (in some leather or cloth to protect the blade finish) and hold the paper at each end then with a side to side action sand to the shape you would like.
I with then continue with this through from 120, 240, 320, 600 to 1000. this will give a very smooth finish on the micarta but if you wanted a medium textured grip i would just do it to around 240/320.
Time wise is hard to say as you will stay on each grit until your happy to move on to the next.
hope that helps.
Then the 80 grit by hand , the best way to shape the handle's is to cut your sandpaper in the strips of about 1" by 12" and then clamp the blade your work bench with a G-clamp (in some leather or cloth to protect the blade finish) and hold the paper at each end then with a side to side action sand to the shape you would like.
I with then continue with this through from 120, 240, 320, 600 to 1000. this will give a very smooth finish on the micarta but if you wanted a medium textured grip i would just do it to around 240/320.
Time wise is hard to say as you will stay on each grit until your happy to move on to the next.
hope that helps.
Different sources/types of Micarta seem to finish differently. I have had some black linen, and black canvas that looked very nice, and gelt good, just wet sanded to 240 grit. The green canvas stuff that I bought was a pig to finish by comparison and had to be sanded down to 400-600 before it started to look alright.
I shape with files, then wet sand to keep the dust down. Think about a good dust mask because unlike wood, even the dust you get from a fairly coarse file will become airborne readily. It doesn't smell particularly nice, hence doing my sanding wet.
A nice finish can be achieved with Webrax / Scothbrite abrasive pads, they will tend to cut away the exposed cloth fibres faster than the phenolic resin so you get a subtle texture.
Hope you don't mind me butting in Stu
I shape with files, then wet sand to keep the dust down. Think about a good dust mask because unlike wood, even the dust you get from a fairly coarse file will become airborne readily. It doesn't smell particularly nice, hence doing my sanding wet.
A nice finish can be achieved with Webrax / Scothbrite abrasive pads, they will tend to cut away the exposed cloth fibres faster than the phenolic resin so you get a subtle texture.
Hope you don't mind me butting in Stu
Chris and especially Stu, cheers both for the advice, i wish we still had the rep scales on here right, i am off to order some Micarta
right, i am off to order some Micarta 
Hi Timbo1, i can put you on a reserve list for the numbered blades in case anyone drops out.
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