What would be the very basic tools you would need for this? I am toying with the idea of trying to make something like a nessmuk or bushcrafter type knife in stainless!
Making a knife
- Thread starter johnnytheboy
- Start date
You can make one with files, hacksaw and a drill. But you have already made it 10x more difficult by wanting ot do it in stainless. You can not heat treat stainless at home without a proper programmable, digitally controlled kiln capable of reaching and holding temps in excess of 1000oC You also need a drill that can be run on a slow setting as you don't drill stainless at high speed. 
You will need someone to do the heat treatment for you, and working it with files and hacksaw will be very labour intensive due to the higher wear resistance of stainless.
You will need someone to do the heat treatment for you, and working it with files and hacksaw will be very labour intensive due to the higher wear resistance of stainless.
Whats the best speeds for stainess Mark? My bench drill runs down to 180rpm - I know thats slower than many....is it slow enough?
It doesn't need to be that slow mate. There are variables, involved. Type of stainless and dia of the drill bit etc
As a general rule, aim for about 500 to 600rpm. You need sharp bits, and a a fair bit of pressure, the trick is to get it cutting and keep it cutting, dont let the pressure off while drilling as it will rub and blunt the bit,You can do it with HSS but i normally use cobalt for non hardened stainless, i now use carbide for anything harder.
Theres an info and conversion chart here mate.
http://www.wisc-online.com/objects/MTL8202/MLT8202.htm
As a general rule, aim for about 500 to 600rpm. You need sharp bits, and a a fair bit of pressure, the trick is to get it cutting and keep it cutting, dont let the pressure off while drilling as it will rub and blunt the bit,You can do it with HSS but i normally use cobalt for non hardened stainless, i now use carbide for anything harder.
Theres an info and conversion chart here mate.
http://www.wisc-online.com/objects/MTL8202/MLT8202.htm
Good to know = I needed to be able to get down to 200 for a specific reloading task, so dropped a bit of cash on the drill - useful to know its okay for more tasks
I have a pillar drill that will run that slow and loads of cobalt drills so that is ok that way I suppose. Stainless is a must as I am around water to much to have carbon steel.
Red what are you using your pillar drill for reloading at that speed, I was planning to get an RTO head for finishing 12g hulls? hopefully not that as mines doesnt go that slow!!
I suppose it might be worth making a couple and keeping the best if i need to get it sent away somewhere!
Red what are you using your pillar drill for reloading at that speed, I was planning to get an RTO head for finishing 12g hulls? hopefully not that as mines doesnt go that slow!!
I suppose it might be worth making a couple and keeping the best if i need to get it sent away somewhere!
I can do heat treat for you if you need it, grind the bevels etc. Do what you can, and if you ned help with something, give me a shout mate.
Could also make the blade to your design if it seems too much.
Could also make the blade to your design if it seems too much.
I can do heat treat for you if you need it, grind the bevels etc. Do what you can, and if you ned help with something, give me a shout mate.
Could also make the blade to your design if it seems too much.
You ain't gonna get much better than one of hillbills knives mate.
touched by nature
Just that - RTO for solid slug. Suggestion is to hold at no more than 200rpm
Check out the instructions here (sorry)
http://www.claygame.co.uk/Cat25Page6CGRRTOsCases.pdf
You'll need a press for crimping - think its much the same for all rto - I am just starting out on shotgun loads though so I'm still learning
I got loads of presses, I just wanted an rto to tidy up some iffy looking ones :-D never tried it before!
