for those interested, heres the CPS document guidance on wildlife offences
http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/v_to_z/wildlife_offences/#a46
http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/v_to_z/wildlife_offences/#a46
WCA1981 said:11. Prohibition of certain methods of killing or taking wild animals
(1)Subject to the provisions of this Part, if any person
(a)sets in position any self-locking snare which is of such a nature and so placed as to be calculated to cause bodily injury to any wild animal coming into contact therewith;
(b)uses for the purpose of killing or taking any wild animal any self-locking snare, whether or not of such a nature or so placed as aforesaid, any bow or cross-bow or any explosive other than ammunition for a firearm; F1 . . .
(c)uses as a decoy, for the purpose of killing or taking any wild animal, any live mammal or bird whatever, [F2 ; or
(d)knowingly causes or permits to be done an act which is mentioned in the foregoing provisions of this section,]
he shall be guilty of an offence.
I could be wrong, but my interpretation of a sapling snare like the one you illustrated is it's self locking - using the spring of the sapling and the weight of the prey to prevent it opening.
It would fall foul of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, I've quoted the relevant bit.
Section 11 part 1 - self locking snare which causes bodily injury. I would be delighted to be wrong.
Cheers,
Out of interest though (and its genuine interest not a veiled dig. As I say I don't have first hand experience) does the wire not cut into the animals flesh or do they not chew limbs to try and get free or anything like that?
Once they are snared I would imagine they would try and escape and can't see how they could do that without pain?
thats the reason why i dont snare any more , yes they are when properly set very effective but when not , as in set by a muppet called hedgerow pete they have a habbit of catching other things aswell, i much prefeer cage trapping as what ever is caught is easily released alive and well some are evan better for it as in hedge hogs are dosed with a flea powder first just help them along and dont forget they have just had a free meal aswell,
i see what you are saying, self locking snares are quite specific in design though. i would say that the weight of the quarry would be certainly hold the snare tight, but that it still wouldnt be "locked" by a non retracting "lock" if you see what i mean
in addition a decent sapling with good spring should (in theory) kill the animal upon setting off preventing the suffering and slow death that may be caused by mechanical/friction locks on a peg snare
certainly when i have made them (and set off and subsequently dismantled) the force with which a rabbit would be snatched should afford an instant dispatch of it
quite possibly an issue with unintended animals getting caught in it, a deer by its leg would be a potential problem and cause undue suffering. an issue there perhaps?
would be great to get a definitive answer on this from a knowledgeable soul
Legal obligations for snare users in England and Wales
Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 it is an offence to set in position
any trap or snare calculated (intended) to cause bodily injury to any wild
animal included in Schedule 6 of that Act which comes into contact with it, or
to use a trap or snare for the purpose of killing such a wild animal; relevant
species listed in Schedule 6 include badger, polecat, otter, red squirrel,
hedgehog and pine marten. Snaring of protected species is not permitted
unless the person has been authorised by a specific licence under section 16
of the Act.
The Deer Act 1991 makes it an offence to set in position any trap or snare
calculated to cause bodily injury to any deer coming in contact with it, or to
use any trap or snare for the purpose of killing or taking any deer.
Snares must only be used as a restraining rather than a killing device. Snares
should be set in open sites such as field edges, tramlines, along runs, trails or
tracks, such as vehicle tracks, where foxes are likely to travel through. They
must not be set in sites cluttered by obstacles such as saplings, hedges,
walls, fences or gates, which increase the risk of injury as a result of the
snares becoming entangled.
Rabbit snares should be set on well-used rabbit runs, in short vegetation,
close to the harbourage from which rabbits gain access to crops. They must
not be set in sites cluttered by obstacles such as saplings, hedges, walls,
fences or gates, which increase the risk of injury. Sites that pose the risk of
fatal entanglement should be avoided.
i see what you are saying, self locking snares are quite specific in design though. i would say that the weight of the quarry would be certainly hold the snare tight, but that it still wouldnt be "locked" by a non retracting "lock" if you see what i mean
in addition a decent sapling with good spring should (in theory) kill the animal upon setting off preventing the suffering and slow death that may be caused by mechanical/friction locks on a peg snare
certainly when i have made them (and set off and subsequently dismantled) the force with which a rabbit would be snatched should afford an instant dispatch of it
quite possibly an issue with unintended animals getting caught in it, a deer by its leg would be a potential problem and cause undue suffering. an issue there perhaps?
would be great to get a definitive answer on this from a knowledgeable soul
hurplegrappers, somewhere at the bottom of this thread we started speaking about rabbit hunting with ferrets and snares there are now loads of snare posts but little about ferrets so i will go back to the ferreting ideas, the reason why i dont use snares is because of what they could? catch and the fact that i like ferreting as a sport rather than a cold meathod of catching , with ferrets and my whippet we can have a rabbit bolt a hole , out run the dog and live for another day and hurraa for the rabbits sometimes we forget , miss a netting hole and the lot runs past and then we have fun trying agian, so get some ferrets and enjoy your self
I have recently over xmas studied the ideas of taking up ferreting again after many many years of being away from the rabbit warrens, heres the costs, all prices are rough and based alot on ebay because of the cheapness(quality??) of the products
ferret cage , home made, free timber, pay for iron works and netting. £30, cage very large, able to run 4 ferrets
ferrets, costs differ depending on where and who you talk to , cannock ferret rescue charges £50 per ferret to pay for it to be neutored and someone will say you can have one of mine for a £10 so make your own choice?
ferret locator, to be honest you would be very silly not to buy one, a new one with two collers and reciver is £160 , dont belive anyone that says they are only £30 on ebay, as they are lieing to you. a second hand one on ebay will easily reach £70 without a chase. some time a lot more
nets, depends what you want, long nets or purse nets, Purse nets are roughly £15 for 10 nets cheaply made, yes you can buy the twine and make them your selves, allow an hour per net for the first twenty and after that you should be able to knock one out in 30 mins easy, how many will you need, the dreaded question. start with twenty and miss a few rabbits, most netters that i used to run with could carry 100 on the first ever time on a warren, but what you do is after the days netting, you go around and fill every rabbit hole / burrow in slightly, so when the next time you come along all the old dead burrows are still sealed and only the new ones are open, that way you will only needs say 40 + nets
long nets these are used in the same way but we surround the warren rather than the holes, average prices are around a pound per metre, so we either get 25,50, 75 or 100 metre nets, best price i have seen for a long net is £89 for 100 metres plus extra for the poles,say a pound each unless you cut your own.
now after that lot which is to be fair, the most exspenses are a one of. lets talk running costs
food dry or wet cat food or propper ferret food £5+ a week
beddding , cage cleaning,etc etc £5 per week
vet bills , say i allow £100 per year ( just a guess but i am sure someone will pick me up on it)
what about a ferret carry box to go to the field and back , transport , your car or someone elses??
then after all that is paid for, you now have to start the hardest work , and thats finding someone that will allow a perfect stranger on to his land to catch rabbits, i dont know about you but my old fashioned way of doing that involved bottles of scotch being delivered to certian farmers to aplease them, and many a time i have HAD TO go to the pub to buy a farmers son/lad/mate/employee a beer or two or twenty
yes an air rifle is cheaper to set up and to buy , i have several , at these costs£28, £120, £250, all second hand and serviced from the gunsmith i brought them from,
now after all of that , am I anti ferret Hurplegrappers, absolutly not , I love ferrets and using them, always have done always will do , as for catching rabbits the nets i will start to make when i can spare the money from my giro and the cage will get built when i can source a decent and clean supply of pallets rather than buying a propper ferret cage
now that i have finished , if you do keep ferrets and can improve or better my prices please do as they are only a starting point , you never know there might evam be someone local that will sell you a couple of ferrets