these are what I use most
small sandvik axe (about 1 1/4 pound's) shaves paper just from filing, never mind stone or polish strop (
scary then!!), beautiful firm steel takes a lot of stress and keeps an edge very well. A real workhorse, does rough shaping of legs/spindles/seat edges etc right down to fine planing cut's, not too heavy not too light. I use it to split out pegs etc
french billhook with a shallow s shaped edge (15p from a car boot sale in normandy) the steel is superb almost good enough to eat (well it would being made in France wouldnt it

), probably well over 100 years old I rehandled it with ash.
I got two old axe heads from a farmer in Normany, and rehafted them with air dried ash I harvested from my own front garden "coppice"

One head especially makes a superb smaller than usual splitting mell for my fire wood, it rarely sticks and is heavy enough (about 3 1/2 pounds) to do up to 10 to 12 inch logs, the other could be modified to make a mortise axe for doing large mortices
ex wd 2 1/2 pound axe again rehafted by myself with an offset haft for hewing small things, I had planned to build a framed shed this year and would have used it to get flats on small telegraph poles for the plates etc, but it hasnt transpired
this year.
2 adze's for chair seat's, a henry taylor gouge adze modified with a 20 inch haft-it totally tansformed the feel and balance and overall acuracy to make it a delight to use, not a hassle as it was with a 10 inch factory one. Also a straight adze (pin poll pattern) but ground with a curved edge. Good for doing fine plane cuts where I just hold the metal and use it like a plane to finish seats.
1 straight and 2 curved drawknifes made by Brian Russell:You_Rock_ for rough shaping of hafts/legs/posts/spindles, and doing seat's.
opinel with 3 inch blade usually in my pocket, it replaced a sheffield lamb foot that wore out and begun stabbing me in my pocket (sharpened that much over the years so the point was exposed even when folded up)
I am on the look out for one of those clasp knive's the older British army ones with the plastic scales, as much as anything its straight edge faster to do up, and sturdy as well. Any one know a good supplier please? The opinel is good steel but the whole knife still feels a bit flimsy plus the locking ring agravate's me when it gets grit or sand in it

I dont really want a large fix blade as I dont need one!
I do some modest joinery and have about 7 old planes almost all wood bodied with thick cast or applied steel blade's and all in topp
ish cutting nick (constantly learning how to improve on tuning), framing chisel's, normal chisels, old corner chisel. I use waterstones to maintain them. Old (140+ years) 5 point disston ripper saw, and not quite so old (90years) s&j 9 point cross cuts and tennon saws. Another "newer" 6 point cross cut disston (about 60 years old) Self made bow saw, I do not rate jet cuts/baracuda's/bahco's etc other than to swat flies or cut round bricks and blocks or cut plaster boards etc.

They are flimsy, have no set and are useles if they get nailed, and you cant sharpen them. The disstons and s&j's can be repaired in minutes with a file.
cheers Jonathan
