Danish Oil & Antler

[JonathanD]

Been a long time since I soaked a knife handle in Danish oil. I used to do it all the time on my non stabilised scaled knives. Anyway, since I had my antler handle bushy knife with its three layer liner to bulk it out to my usual spec, I realised that the fibre liners were the weak point so decided to dip it in warm Danish for two days so it would have a good chance of 100% penetration.

This is the knife before treatment.

After I pulled it out, I left it to dry and harden for a few days. I was surprised that most of the antler, apart from some dense parts near the ricasso, had absorbed the oil right the way through and given it a translucent effect. It really brought out the beauty in the antler and at the same time virtually stabalised it. The pictures really don't do it justice, it is stunning...

 

[Robbi]

WOW ! that looks great !

 

[Chris the Cat]

Beautiful Sir!
Are you at the Knife show in Bristol next month Jonathon?
My best.
Chris.

 

[JonathanD]

Beautiful Sir!
Are you at the Knife show in Bristol next month Jonathon?
My best.
Chris.

I hope so.

 

[Chris the Cat]

I shall be on the door again this year,hope to see you ( and your knives!? ) there.
Cheers.
Chris.

 

[JonathanD]

I shall be on the door again this year,hope to see you ( and your knives!? ) there.
Cheers.
Chris.

Cool. Hopefully I'll make it this year.

Incidentally, if anyone is thinking of giving their wood/bone/antler handle or just liners some stabilisation, heres how I do it for top results.

Stick you knife in a tall thing and tip in some Danish so that it covers the entire handle when suspended by some foam:

Wrap a heating pad (low wattage reptile pads you get for £4.99 does the job). The leave for three days.

Wipe off any excess and leave to dry for 24 hours. Then enjoy.

This oil soaks ino the densest material at this warm temperature 100% and makes it that much stronger and impervious to moisture penetration and so protects the steel underneath too. A great bonus if you have an 01 knife.

 

[Siberianfury]

Seriously nice Jonathon, adds that extra touch of class.
just out of question, does your Deval Bushcrafter have a secondary bevel or is it due to Stu's Slight hollow grinds?

 

[JonathanD]

Seriously nice Jonathon, adds that extra touch of class.
just out of question, does your Deval Bushcrafter have a secondary bevel or is it due to Stu's Slight hollow grinds?

It used to be a high scandi grind with a polished edge. Now it has a secondary bevel. I've always had scandi grinds, but I now like the stronger edge of the secondary and less time and hassle when it needs sharpening. I use this knife a lot and it never needs more than a few strokes down the fine ceramic of a sharpmaker to bring the edge back. Stus high grind has virtually eliminated the problems you get with thick blades. This one is 3.5mm.

I suppose eventually I'll have to get out the bench stones to take back the main bevel, but that is several years away yet.