I had a mate over from Germany last week, the intention was to have 6 days camping and to utilise one or two of Scotland's bothies. Our first night was spent in a bothy near Kingussie before we headed into the woods of Rothiemurchus for a couple of nights wandering and camping. We met a keeper on our second day there who told us of the heavy weather warning from the tail end of Hurricane Katia. Rothiemurchus isn't the place to be in bad weather, with Westerlies tending to accelerate as they're funneled towards the slopes of the Monadh Ruadh (Cairngorms; they changed the name "Red Mountains" to "Blue Humps"). The predicted winds didn't materialise but it rained almost constantly for the rest of our trip. That's when the comfort of the bothy fire comes to mind, so we retreated to the car and headed back down the A9, right at Dalwhinnie, along bonnie Laggan-side, past the Commando Memorial and spent the next night in one of my favourite bothies, the one with newspaper headlines pasted on the walls from WWII... RAF blast a Road to Damascus... Rommel halted at El Alamein... Afrika Korps routed at Benghazi... Tunis besieged... Allies sweep through Sicily...
Curiously, it's all good news!
From there we ended up at the quarry at Bonawe, where I discovered a new locked gate preventing my usual tactic of driving to the far side of the quarry, so cutting a very ugly and mucky mile and a half from the walk-in. I walked a few hundred yards past the gate, the steady rain slanting through the quarry lights made it look more grim than ever, the rain bouncing back out of the puddles. I got back in the car and returned the way we'd come, back along the coast of Appin to Ballachulish and Tigh na Sheumais a' Glinne, the house of James Stewart, a Jacobite who was fitted up for murder and hanged in 1752. James and I get along just fine, and there was a kettle boiling on the roaring stove 30 minutes after we arrived.
I believe that Dowling Stoves are the foremost cause of Global Warming!
The drive up the A9 towards Dunkeld is one I relish in Autumn. The view down into the Strath as you approach would make any Impressionist's heart skip a beat, the rich evergreens dotted through yellows, oranges, and reds from rose to scarlet. It wasn't quite on form on the 7th September, but I did notice that it's shaping up! The woods along the A9 are mostly birch and alder, with Durmast oaks, beech, cherry, and the odd European maple down in the dells. Their brightness is turning to a wearied look. The rowans on the hillsides were tinged with colour and in the Great Glen I saw the first crimson red Spirit Trees of Autumn, one looking for all the world like a post box stationed high on the approach to Corrieyairack. I'd say the second week in September is a bit early for Crimson, and am taking that as a sign that Autumn will be short and Cauld Winter isn't far away!
C'mon the snaw!
Pango.